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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a dog chew my wiring harness up last year. I had to hard wire the wires back together from a harness that i found and the wire connectors were gone. the wires to the engine the connector was gone as well. I had this mower wired to run but it would not charge the battery. I am sure that when i wired it something wasn't right due to the headlights would always blow when i put new ones in and turned them on. I am not shure how to use a voltmeter to find out which wires to hook together from the main harness on the mower side to the engine and etc. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.
 

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ok u need to find your owners manual and start tracing wires. my 2003 craftsman had a dog attack its wiring harness before i got it. i fixed all the wiring issues since. but its a headache ill warn u that. also without your battery charging means your headlights dont work either. if u lived close to me i would tell u to bring it over but you dont lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeh I have the diagram from the manual also have the diagram from the engine but this thing will not even turn over now all i get is a clicking it will not spin over. I have the battery charged full. there is a blue wire coming from the solenoid and a red wire coming from the voltage meter that i have connected to the red wire to the engine that goes to the fuel shut off on the carb. yellow from the mower going to the green that goes to the stator. black from mower to black on the engine that goes to the stator. and orange from the mower that goes to white on the engine goes in the engine. I am having no luck. checked the voltage from the blue and red wire from the solenoid and they are hot. all of the rest are reading nothing. any help?
 

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The schematic shows the PROPER wire colors and where they go.

Your descriptions of wire colors and locations doesn't make ANY sense.

It's also easier to read/understand what you are saying if you started sentences with a CAPITAL LETTER and used the RETURN/ENTER key when you start a new paragraph.

Try jumping the 2 large studs on the solenoid together to see if the engine cranks. IF it does, the solenoid is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry for the bad typing.
I put the battery charger on the mower and it cranks with the charger on it. I have sat outside looking at the schematic but it does not represent the harness I have on my mower.

I have a red wire that comes from the key goes to the solenoid. then goes to a 20 amp fuse and the ampmeter. one leg of the wire goes to the area that i am trying to splice.

I have one blue wire that comes from three resistors and a leg comes to the area i am trying to splice.

I have one orange wire that comes straight from the key to the area that I am trying to splice.

I have one yello wire that comes from the key and harness to the area i am splicing

and finally one black that is coming to the area i am splicing.

From the motor I have a black and green wire running together that should hook to the harness side. I believe they go to the stator. right now I have black with black from mower side. and green to yellow on mower side.

I have a red wire coming from the fuel solenoid hooked to the blue wire from the mower side.

I have the white wire from the motor going to the orange wire to the mower side.

and the red wire from the mower side I have unhooked. checking this wire from the mower it does have power to it on the voltmeter.

again sorry for the bad typing just trying to ensure i get the information in. Thanks again for all of the help
 

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Note- I'm going to post , edit, repost etc. a few times so I can see what I've written.

You should probably disconnect the plug to the key switch and use your OHM METER to trace thew wire from the plug to the component you are working on.

On the schematic, look at the "truth table", on the bottom left of the schematic, which shows what connections are/aren't made with the key in different positions.

For reference, work FROM the key switch TO the component.

"I have a red wire that comes from the key goes to the solenoid. then goes to a 20 amp fuse and the ampmeter. one leg of the wire goes to the area that i am trying to splice.
"
Red wire is suppose to go from the B(attery) terminal of the key switch, through the ammeter and then through the fuse to the solenoid.
At this same terminal of the solenoid, the HEAVY Red battery cable connects to the battery +.
The "other" red wire is the output from the alternator and goes to the A1 terminal of the key switch.
When the key is ON, it is connected to B.
This allows charging back to the battery.
BLUE & GREEN are simply connected to this wire and are "hot" when the key is ON.


"I have one blue wire that comes from three resistors and a leg comes to the area i am trying to splice"
You don't have any resistors in this circuit. What part are you calling resistors?

The BLUE wire simply is connected to the RED wire (from the alternator) and goes through the clutch switch, then through the attachment switch to the fuel solenoid. The clutch must be depressed to complete this circuit.


"I have one orange wire that comes straight from the key to the area that I am trying to splice"

ORANGE is the AC circuit off the alternator for the lights.
It simply goes to the A2 terminal of the key switch.
When the "lights" part of the key switch is ON, A2 is connected to L, which goes to the lights.


"I have one yello wire that comes from the key and harness to the area i am splicing"
Schematic doesn't show YELLOW.
Typically when Yellow is used (not Craftsman) it is the "kill wire to the ignition and is hooked to the M terminal of the key switch.
When the key is OFF, M is grounded and kills the spark.

"and finally one black that is coming to the area i am splicing."
BLACK is always grounded EXCEPT the Black wire between the M terminal and ign coil.

That's all for now-
 

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I was looking at things a bit more-

YELLOW-
This is a Kohler engine.
On the engine manual, it shows the AC lighting lead as Yellow and the DC charging lead as Black.
At the connector-
The Yellow should turn to Orange.
The Black should turn to Red.

Yellow is also sometimes used for the kill wire.
You might want to remove the shroud and verify the kill wire color.
Whatever color it is, it should end up to the M terminal of the key switch.

This engine also is equipped with a "stator brake".
This is a 3rd wire going to the alternator and I have no clue what color it is.
It does go to pin 87A of Operator Presence Relay (OPR) #2.
 

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Yellow from the key and harness? I'm assuming that means the replacement harness that you found has a yellow wire that you connected to the ignition switch?

As mentioned, the diagram in the manual for your tractor shows no yellow wires. The Kohler SERVICE (not owners) manual for your tractor shows a yellow wire feeding out to provide power for lights.

In the Sears manual, there is a note stating that the lights are powered by a separate alternator (stator). This would appear to be the (unmarked) wire connected to the orange wire, which then connects to A2 on the ignition switch (all looking at the Sears manual diagram).

I don't see three resistors in either manual's diagram...

At this point, unless you really want a lesson in how to wire this up, you might be better off buying a new harness. They are available at Sears Parts Direct, for about $90 (you can often find an online coupon code for at least 10% off by doing a google search).

Another option is ebay, people often part out tractors there. I just did a quick look, and don't see your particular harness listed at the moment. But, if you're not in a rush and want to save a few bucks, just keep checking ebay and it may show up within a few weeks.

Now, if you really are ****-bent on making this work with what you have, you need to watch that video until you can draw out those connections with your eyes closed. You could then wire your tractor to run without safety devices (not recommended, but a good place to start if you're learning).

Then, eat, sleep and drink that electrical schematic (in the Sears manual). You will see that all the extra stuff (safety devices) basically fall in line with connections described within the video (the safety switches short the kill wire, enable the starter, open the optional fuel solenoid, etc.).

As mentioned, the headlight circuit is different than what is shown in the video, but should make sense after you work with the schematic for long enough.

Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Bill and everyone for all of your help this far.

The yellow wire is coming from what I have been calling resistors (relay) on the mower side. it connects in the middle of one of these.

From the motor itself I have a Green and Black going to the stator.

A white going to the spark arrestor.

And a red going to the Carb or Fuel solenoid.

I had it running last night but I am on my way to get a new fuse and new lights to see if this thing will charge.

The black wire with the white stripe on it goes to the key module M the kill spot bill was talking about.should it hook to the stator Black wire or the spark arrestor white wire to the motor?

The red wire goes to the solenoid positive side from the battery. I am asuming this is the wire that hooks to the stator charging wire. any help on figuring out which one of the wires this is?

I have the blue wire to the fuel solenoid (carb) red wire. that seems to be the ticket on getting it to run.

The yellow wire that goes to the relay in the center hole of it I do not know where to hook it

I am thinking of simplifying the wiring all together and take out all of the relays and everything. just hooking straight in like the video showed I just need to know from the mower side what these wires should hook to.

thanks again for all of the help thus far.
 

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"The yellow wire is coming from what I have been calling resistors (relay) on the mower side. it connects in the middle of one of these. "

That should be pin 87A of the relay.
Unplug the relay and LOOK at it to make sure your "middle" and my "middle" are the same! Better to say WHICH terminal it connects to instead.
Terminals are marked 30, 85, 86, 87 & 87A.
We don't want to be
It should connect under the shroud for the flywheel brake.


"From the motor itself I have a Green and Black going to the stator."
Don't you mean COMING from the stator?
Coming FROM the stator, leads should be.
Black Charging lead (should be a diode inline to convert AC to DC.
It should connect to a RED wire that terminates at A1 on the key switch.
Green Braking lead
Yellow AC lighting lead Should connect to an ORANGE wire that goes to A2 on the key switch. (that's part of the light switch portion and comes back out from the L terminal to the lights when the light switch is ON)


"A white going to the spark arrestor."
Spark arrestors don't have wires!

On a Craftsman tractor-
WHITE comes off the key switch S(tart) terminal
It'll then go through the brake/clutch switch and then to\hrough the PTO/attachment switch and then to the small terminal on the starter solenoid.

Make sure to refresh this page-
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Bill

I know it all sounds weird that is because neither schematic really represents what I am looking at.

The yellow wire in question. You are correct it connects to the flywheel brake. Green coming from under the shroud.

On the 2 leads I have coming from the stator. Black I have tried connecting to my red lead that goes to the solenoid. There is no AC to DC Diode in the black wire that explains why every time i hook it to the red wire it blows a fuse.

I have a the Green wire hooked to the yello wire as we have stated.

what for me is confusing is that I have no yellow wire coming from the stator. I do not know where to hook the orange (light) wire.

The White wire I was refferencing was the kill wire. It came from under the shroud to the Black wire to the key. I have got them connected and it works fine.

The mower right now runs. just no charging system as I have no diode so I cant hook the red wire to the black charging lead coming from the stator. I will try to get one on and then connect them.
 

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BTW, especially since this has been reported by two different people here, how does a dog get to the wiring harness to chew it up?

Mice, I can see, but dogs??? :dunno:

Mike
 

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The dog ate the connectors too?


"I had to hard wire the wires back together from a harness that i found "

So that's the problem with the harness not matching?

What size light bulbs are you putting in that keep blowing?
Are they 6 Volt?

Does the OPR have power to pins 85-86?
IF it's not "energized, the "stator brake" is grounded.
I really don't understand enough about them, but I can't imagine any good would come from running the engine like that.
I'd pull OPR #2 for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes sir Bill

The dog ate the connectors as well. That is why the diode is gone. I have decided besides going through this any longer I am going to remove all of the relays and switches and just wire the mower with push button and a toggle switch. I have talked to several people today and worked on this all day.

I have a toggle that I am going to wire to the stator brake and the kill to the coil as well.

I am then going to wire the push buton to the solenoid to a push button start and then wire the fuel solenoid to power. that should take care of it i hope. any thoughts on this process and how to help would be great?

also i have a diode from radio shack that i am going to put in on the charging wire and wire up my lights and charging system from that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bill I have one more question. I have taken all of the wires and saftey switches out.

I have a wire from the battery side of the solenoid hook to the following to give constant power:
fuel solenoid ( not sure if this should have constant power or if i should put it on a switch.)
One side of my push button ignition

I have the other side of the push button going to a white wire on the solenoid. There is one last small wire on the solenoid that I have connected to a ground wire. The other large wire goes to the starter

also in the small wire that is feeding the push button and the fuel solenoid i have spliced in the charging wire from the stator with a diode on it.

I tested the stator before I unhooked everything and it has 31 volts ac putting out

the green wire from the stator I have connected to the kill wire and both the green and the coil kill wire are connected to a toggle switch to kill the mower. The other side of the toggle is connected to ground.


That about covers it. But the mower turns over fine but will not start. I dont know if it is the green wire from the stator or the fuel solenoid wire. Any help
 

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You don't want 12V on the fuel solenoid unless you are using the tractor. It'll drain the battery
You also don't want battery voltage to the diode when not in use. They have a small amount of leakage back, so that would also be a drain on the battery.
Also, I guess there's a remote possibility the diode could short and possibly cause a fire, unbeknownst to you.
Ditto to the fuel solenoid.
Just not good practice!

If you still have the relays installed, that may be causing a no spark condition.
I can't see the "other" posts, and I don't remember what the Green wire was for.

Apparently we decided the Green wire is the stator brake.

When you are cranking it, have you-
1. checked for spark?
2. 12V on the fuel solenoid.

I have a hunch the Green wire being connected to the kill wire might be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry for the late reply. The Fuel solenoid did drain the battery so I am going to put it on a toggle. While I am at it I will put the charging wire on a toggle as well but I am not sure what side to wire the toggle on the charging wire. Should I wire it on the side closest to the power source or the other side farthest away from the power source in reference to the diode? I would think that it needs to be closest to the power source to stop any drainage.

I cut the green wire from the toggle that i had wired to the kill wire and it started and runs fine now just constant power to the fuel solenoid is killing the battery

I checked the stator with it running and checked good. I also checked the power from the charging wire after it passes through the diode to ensure it is converting to dc and it is. so that is good. not sure what else i should do besides the two toggles I think it is working well.

Let me know if you guys have any other ideas
 

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It wouldn't really matter which side of the diode. Either way, the switch will open the circuit so that current can't flow.

Which diode did you use?
That's something I've been curious about if a Radio Shack diode would hold up?

Theoretically, you could use use a diode on each stator output lead, if you don't use lights. That would charge the battery faster.
IF you do use the lights other than a few minutes at a time, you'd be better off running them on the AC lighting lead. Else just run them off the battery. They will draw about twice the current on DC, but wouldn't be as dependent on engine speed.
 
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