My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Troulble with my 2003ish LT180. 850 hours. Two issues:
1. It will only run with the choke almost fully engaged.
2. Hard to start, but once it does, it runs like the champ it's always been, but only with lots of choke.
Things I've done:
Rebuilt the carb. (Normal gook found, nothing glaring, cleaned jets, blew out all passages)
New fuel line.
New air filter.
New fuel filter.
Bypassed fuel system with elevated gas can feeding the pump.
New plugs, good spark.
New battery.
Ran extra ground cable from neg to block.
Inspected/cleaned all safety switches.
It's run with all of the above plus some B12 treated non-ethanol fuel for about 30 mins. But still, the choke issue. I've adjusted all I know to do while it's running. When I open the choke say, 10%, the revs die and I can see the carb physically activate maybe a throttle boost curcuit (I'm guessing it operates when vacuum is lost). It will die immediately if I don't then re-engage the choke. I can't imagine this is good for the long term. Luckily, this is my back up mower, so I can take my time with it, but I don't know what else to do. Hate to give up on the ol' gal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I have a 2004 lt170, hard starting when cold since new. no other engine issues though. always use ethanol free fuel. can you soak the carb ? how much is a new carb ? my honda eb4000 generator that I've had for 7 years recently only ran well with half choke, ended up replacing carb with new and all fixed. new carb was equal to 1 hour of service time at local honda shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
I know that lots of guys think that they can clean these little carbs. I know that I can't. I doubt that they can. Buy a new carb and be done with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
In general, most technicians will say that you need to soak the carb for a minimum of 24 hours to loosen all the varnish so you might still have a carb issue. You could also have a vacuum leak somewhere along the intake tract - you can spray carb cleaner at the gasket areas while running and see if the engine runs differently when you hit the joint with carb cleaner.

Also...I'd check the fuel solenoid to make sure it's retracting properly. It might need a little soak and working of the tip back and forth to free up any varnish or potentially replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Carb cleaner in a spray can works pretty good for cleaning debris from a carb, but not too well for removing varnish build-up. Auto part stores sell buckets of carb cleaner, usually with a parts basket inside. Dismantle carb, place in carb cleaner and soak, at least overnight. I'd suggest 24-36 hours! Remove parts, rinse with spray parts cleaner, and blow all passages with air. Do NOT push anything hard or metal into passages! The smallest nick or burr will drastically change the flow characteristics. Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,168 Posts
Agree with Denverguy's comment. If the carb is truly clean and still requires choke, and is hard starting, the next suspect would be a gasket, or crack, leaking air into the intake somewhere causing too lean mix and requiring a choke to keep going.

You didn't mention if these issues came on suddenly, or been present for some time, or gettting worse over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Carb cleaner in a spray can works pretty good for cleaning debris from a carb, but not too well for removing varnish build-up. Auto part stores sell buckets of carb cleaner, usually with a parts basket inside. Dismantle carb, place in carb cleaner and soak, at least overnight. I'd suggest 24-36 hours! Remove parts, rinse with spray parts cleaner, and blow all passages with air. Do NOT push anything hard or metal into passages! The smallest nick or burr will drastically change the flow characteristics. Bob
I agree with your post, however, I keep on finding myself having to use bristles from metal brushes to clear the jets. I guess the debris gets softened but won't clear out all the way without manual labor. I haven't had anything bad happen...except for the time I decided to drill a main jet. It was okay though! It was an aftermarket carb


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well the second cleaning worked like a charm! Soaked 24 hrs, and had better luck removing a couple of jets. I did have to carefully insert a thin wire to break up some crud, as T suggested above. I’m thinking the idle curcuit was the main problem. Fired right up! Regarding the fuel solenoid/shutoff pin, I removed that bugger years ago by grinding the pin down. Thanks!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top