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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,
My buddy gave me his LT-1000 after it had been sitting out (uncovered) for a while and has many problems, so I am starting my way through the basic stuff (get it to turn over, move, etc...)..

So after juicing up the batter and putting in new gas I was able to get to turn over.

Currently I have the fuel line going straight into the carb (without the filter) and have used 1 pint of seafoam between pouring into the gas tank and the air intake and although it idles fine (but very loud) it won't allow me to put it to slow (while idling) or release the clutch (it goes about a foot and then dies). I have the seat off of it (just in case the issue is associated with a kill switch).. Any ideas on what to do next??

Thanks a lot!
Bryce
 

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The Magnificent
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Hi Bryce, welcome to the forum.

You don't mention if you can come up to operating RPM in neutral.

There is a seat interlock, a PTO interlock, and a brake/clutch interlock if I recall correctly. All three of the switches were mesed up on the LT1000 I just parted out, so it may be one of the other interlocks. Take a look and see if they are stuck.

Just having the seat off will cause the tractor to die when you put it in gear.
 

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certified tractor nut
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i would think that its an issue with the clutch switch being out of adjustment or bad
 

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Wouldn't bad switches just keep it from starting? Sounds to me like the carb has to come apart for a good cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot for the replies folks!
It must have been the seat (which was off) kill switch.

The next issue is that it stalls going up hills. Any ideas?
 

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bkatzman,

Sorry for my late arrival to this thread...

your problem: Stalls going uphill... is likely related to the fuel filter type and position.

I believe your machine (which is a fine one by the way) has a gravity feed fuel system. The hose leaves the bottom of the fuel tank, then routes along the site of the engine to the carb. The in-line fuel filter can often get knocked out of position and throw off the gravity feed when going uphill.

You can try to reposition it by fiddling with the rubber coated metal retainers that hold the fuel line in place.

OR - I found that when I used one of those clear fuel filters that I found at Sears - the cavity of the filter was too large to keep the gas moving, and I would have to choke it to keep it going uphill.

So - take a look at what type of fuel filter you have, as this is more than likely the issue. I prefer the Kohler filters, and there are several others out there that will do the job and keep the gas flowing on inclines.

If you need anymore info, or exact part numbers for a good fuel filter, by all means let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Chad thanks so much for the information.

That explains things somewhat. I removed/replaced the fuel line and had no idea how/where to rerun the lines as they aren't spelled out in the manual/diagram.

I'll give your suggestions a try and let you know.

Thanks!
Bryce
 

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Hello Bryce, let me know when that fuel tank arrives.

Seth K. Pyle
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Chad,

Thanks for the information! So I went to my local lawn tractor store and they gave me a red Briggs and Stratton fuel filter. Everywhere on-line says that the filter's arrow should face the carb, but I don't see an arrow on the filter! I suppose if they are referring to the Briggs and Stratton symbol itself, yes I have it facing the carb.

I rerouted the fuel lines to make them as gradual to the carb as possible, but I still don't think I did it right as I have to choke/unchoke a lot depending on whether or not I am going up hill, etc..

I looked in 917.271811 manual and they don't diagram where to run the fuel line can you be guide me? I could have sworn when I first took the line off it when down from the tank and the 90 degrees vertical up behind the panel that has the ignition, ampmeter, etc.. I also don't remember whether it fed to the carb on right side (if you are in the driver's seat) or left.

Thanks for your help. I know with a little tinkering I can get this thing running "right" besides my buddy gave it to me for free because it wasn't turning over, had a leaky gas tank, and a bent tie rod. So far I've fixed all that for under 50 bucks!!!

Bryce

bkatzman,

Sorry for my late arrival to this thread...

your problem: Stalls going uphill... is likely related to the fuel filter type and position.

I believe your machine (which is a fine one by the way) has a gravity feed fuel system. The hose leaves the bottom of the fuel tank, then routes along the site of the engine to the carb. The in-line fuel filter can often get knocked out of position and throw off the gravity feed when going uphill.

You can try to reposition it by fiddling with the rubber coated metal retainers that hold the fuel line in place.

OR - I found that when I used one of those clear fuel filters that I found at Sears - the cavity of the filter was too large to keep the gas moving, and I would have to choke it to keep it going uphill.

So - take a look at what type of fuel filter you have, as this is more than likely the issue. I prefer the Kohler filters, and there are several others out there that will do the job and keep the gas flowing on inclines.

If you need anymore info, or exact part numbers for a good fuel filter, by all means let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am also trying to adjust the idle mixture screw (and then idle speed screw), but I can't find it!? The diagram from http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0103078.pdf (page 28) is for my model LT-1000 917.271811, but where the screw is in the diagram I have a large and small hole (without threads or a phillips head so that's not where it is).. Any help?

Thanks as always!
Bryce
 

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Hello Bryce, you may be SOL for the idle mixture screw. Looking further down in your manual, to the IPL for the engine, go to the carb breakdown, look at item # 147. It looks like an adjusting screw. However, go to the parts list, and it is called a pilot jet. My old Craftsman LT1000 with the 19.5hp 42E707 engine had a pilot jet in that hole instead of an adjusting screw.

So, this means you can't adjust it. Only remedy for this is cleaning and more cleaning.

Here is a picture of the carb from my 19.5, turned upside down. You can clearly see the pilot jet.

Seth K. Pyle
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We'll I guess SOL is better than FUBAR!

I'll put more Seafoam through the gas and the air intake.

I'm still unsure of what the star-headed long bolt that is attached to the swivel (see page 27), sits inside the quarter cycle, and is connected to the throttle cable indirectly, does and I have messed with it so many times I doubt it's set correctly. Any ideas?
 

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Hello Bryce, according to the IPL, that screw is the 'high speed control' screw. My Opposed Twin Service Manual shows that screw adjusts the top no load speed of the engine. IE, the speed the engine runs at full throttle with the blades disengaged and the drive belt declutched. Messing with that screw without a tachometer is a bad thing.

I am sure I will violate some liability code of ethics of some form with this, but until you can get a tachometer, adjust that screw by ear, set it to where you think the engine sounds good running at what you think is a good speed. Then, back it off 1/4 turn. Trust me, the top speed no load on most engines actually sounds like the engine is running slow.

Anyway, e-mail briggs from their website, requesting the top speed no load for your engine. You will need to give them all the engine numbers, as well as the tractor numbers with deck size. Then, get a tach and properly set the top no load speed. Do this soon, because setting the speed too high may cause the engine to start shedding parts if it is extreme.

Seth K. Pyle
 

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Bryce,

Not sure if this will help but.... I have an LT1000 and the tractor would die out 1-2 times a mow for a few years. Every year I would change the fuel filter [didn't matter the brand and some had arrows, some didn't] and blow out the fuel lines. My assumption was that something was that there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Some folks though it was a carb problems because the engine would race and then die. Some thought it was the governor. I broke down and had a service tech look at it. Problem: plugged up gas cap. The cap wasn't breathing properly and stalled out from vapor lock. Not sure if this helps buts it's easy to clean
Bobby
 

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I think those little red B&S fuel filters are junk. I like to see the fuel and what it's filtering. I just go to the auto parts store and get a Fram in-line fuel filter off the rack. They have the arrow, I checked. About the idle mixture screw, I thought those were factory set, and we weren't supposed to mess with those? The only reliable way to set the idle is with a tachometer.
 

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An automotive fuel filter wont always work on a gravity feed system well,it could block enough flow to cause fuel starvation on hills or when under heavy load..they were designed to be used with a fuel pump,on the pressure side of the pump...might not be a problem on EVERY engine,but it COULD be..

..that is why the disc type B&S filter has a fine mesh screen instead of a paper element..the paper element transparent fuel filters sold at box stores and mower shops are packed with a slightly more porus paper than a typical car gas filter is,and are mostly used on tractors with the vaccuum operated fuel pumps..if you look on all the older engines without fuel pumps,they all had sediment bowl filters with screens,instead of paper elements,and some had screens on the fuel inlet fittings in the carb too..

I would check the gas cap as suggested,also try blowing the fuel line out with compressed air..but usually an engine refusing to idle,that runs OK at higher speeds, points to a vacuum leak or a lean mixture condition though..I'd spray some carb cleaner around all the gaskets on the carb where it joins the manifold and head,and the carb body itself..worn throttle shaft bushings can cause vacuum leakage and poor idle,stalling,and other woes...I have seen engines with points refuse to idle when the main bushing in the block on the flywheel side gets enough play to let the point gap change at low speeds VS high speeds--usually oil leakage shows up when that occours,not always though..sounds like fuel problems or vacuum leaks to me in your case..
 

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My LT1000 had the red B&S filter. It has been replaced by a Fram see thru filter. This filter specifically is not to be used with fuel pumps. The clerk handed my the 'fuel pump' type first, then we read the instructions. I like to see fuel in the line. to make sure I didn't forget to open the fuel valve.
It's a BIG filter, compared to the little red B&S one.
 
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