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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have looked, and looked. Even removing the heat shield looking for the model number on my Intek 17.5, but nothing.

How do i find it?
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Moved to the John Deere Lawn and Garden Tractor forum.

Welcome to MTF Corey Troy! Lots of info and great members here to help and share with, enjoy the site! Here is some site navigation assistance in case you need it:

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with Corey. The number is stamped into the valve cover.

How To Find Riding Mower Engine Model Number | Briggs & Stratton
Hi Paul.

I have nothing on the valve cover except for OHV on the front.
Nothing at on the top or bottom of the valve cover.
The bottom is nice and clean, but the top is a little lightly rusted, but even after a bit of a scrub, there is definitely nothing stamped on it.

I have the what seems to be the common problem of the engine not cranking over due to a broken compression relief, so suspect it will be a camshaft replacement, but want to ensure i get the correct one for the model motor.
 

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The camshaft is the same for all the briggs singles i have worked on, from a 14.5hp all the way to the 21hp.
 
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Hi Paul.

I have nothing on the valve cover except for OHV on the front.
Nothing at on the top or bottom of the valve cover.
The bottom is nice and clean, but the top is a little lightly rusted, but even after a bit of a scrub, there is definitely nothing stamped on it.

I have the what seems to be the common problem of the engine not cranking over due to a broken compression relief, so suspect it will be a camshaft replacement, but want to ensure i get the correct one for the model motor.
First, sorry. I meant to say I agree with Dave!

A few things first:
1) Can you rotate the engine by hand to make sure it isn't seized?
2) Assuming it is not seized, will the starter spin the engine if the spark plug is removed?
2) Have you checked the valve adjustment? Sometimes a loose exhaust valve can mitigate the operation of the compression relief.

Sorry you can't find the serial/model number. Is it possible someone replaced the valve cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The camshaft is the same for all the briggs singles i have worked on, from a 14.5hp all the way to the 21hp.
Thanks for the reply.

How can i distinguish the camshaft i need though?

Some seem to have a cut out on the back, and some don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First, sorry. I meant to say I agree with Dave!

A few things first:
1) Can you rotate the engine by hand to make sure it isn't seized?
2) Assuming it is not seized, will the starter spin the engine if the spark plug is removed?
2) Have you checked the valve adjustment? Sometimes a loose exhaust valve can mitigate the operation of the compression relief.

Sorry you can't find the serial/model number. Is it possible someone replaced the valve cover?
Thanks for your time with this first up.
1). I can turn it by hand, up until it hits what seems to be a compression resistance, then after 1 revolution, it goes easier again, until the next compression etc
2). plug removed, the engine rotates fine
3). Checked valve adjustment 3 times to make sure it is good. Set intake to 004" and have tried exhaust set to .004" and .006" @ TDC and 1/4 past TDC also. All to same result.
Like a flat battery, but battery charged and good.
 

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I did try this method Compression Relief Valve test and it did not start either.
I would say if the battery is maintaining 10+ volts during cranking, and the starter doesn't seem bad, and the wiring to the starter isn't full of corrosion, then it is likely the compression release on the camshaft. Might be a good time tor replace the head gasket, too, while it's apart.
 

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Thanks for the reply.

How can i distinguish the camshaft i need though?

Some seem to have a cut out on the back, and some don't.
The cut-out is for the oil pump. It seems they are now only shipping cams with the cut-out and they can be used on engines with and without an oil pump. The last two non-oil pump engines in which I replaced the cams, both new OEM cams came with the cut-out on the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm,

Ok didn't expect the compression valve to be still intact and on the camshaft still.

Not sure what to look to now to fix the start issue, any suggestions?

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It could be intact, but is it operating correctly? Do the parts move smoothly?

Another thing to check is the position of the coil, meaning is it mounted correctly, and also the condition of the flywheel key. If either of these is off slightly, then ignition timing would be off and might cause a similar problem to a faulty compression release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After a bit of googling, i did find a possible scenario that could have caused the failure to start, and that is a loose inside jut on the starter positive terminal.
Unfortunately as i took the crank case off,mi now need to wait for the gasket to arrive before re-assembling it, and install to mower to see if the loose nut made any difference.

Shame i didn't find it before pulling out motor, but that's life. And it may still not solve it anyhow.

What this space.......
It's bad. The ACR should be totally flat. View attachment 2499959
Your right.
Mine seems to be tapered down.

What suppose to open it, the resistance of spinning in the sump oil?
Don't know what it is worn.
I will replace it to see if it rectifies it.
 

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Thanks for the reply.

How can i distinguish the camshaft i need though?

Some seem to have a cut out on the back, and some don't.
The cutout on the gear side end of the shaft is for if you have an oil pump. If you have an oil filter, you have a pump.

I appologise, i forgot about the drive for the oil pump being different...LOL i do know for a fact that a splash lube (no oil filter or pump) runs perfectly fine on a cam with the oil pump drive cutout, as my 14.538 Sabre has had one with a cutout in it for 3 years now, with no issues, Deere even subs the old non drive cam part number to the driven cam.
 
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