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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question for the B&S mechanics.:thThumbsU
I (now) have a Craftsman Hydo 42 inch (917.252531) that I'm trying to put back together. Almost a basket case, but no basket. This is the machine that the previous owner 'blew up' the rear tire with the small auto tire inflator pump, Kaabboom.:fing20:
Well, the engine mounting bolts were barely hanging to engine threads. No wonder it ran, shook, and knocked so badly. I re-tightened them. Messy job.
Also, oil pours out the front of the engine, between the frame and where the first gasket set is. B&S 0162-01 15hp OHV engine. Engine runs, although roughly, carb needs tinkering. I did find the 4 rearmost bolts that secure the two bottom halves of the engine together, quite loose, 1 - 2 turns each. Hmmm. I could not detect any bolts in the front half, but with all that oil and crud under there, it wouldn't take much to hide anything.
My question: would the loose motor mounting bolts, continous mower use, and a non-mechanically inclined previous owner, would that be enough to loosen up the bolts that secure the two halves of the lower engine together, and maybe drop completley out of the engine?
If the front 3 bolts are gone, could there be any internal damage? Engine doesn't smoke, presently.
I plan on power washing the underside tomorrow to see if the front 3 bolts are really missing. If they are gone, they maybe the source of the oil leak. If they are there, gotta pull the engine.

One good thing about the oil leak, it is everywhere, oil that is. The machine has no rust to speak of. It's well lubricated, too.:sorry1:
 

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There is some history of the sump bolts coming loose. IF the mounting bolts were loose enough for the engine to be thrashing around, that could contribute. Should be no internal damage. I think you need to remove the engine and replace the sump gasket. Tighten the sump bolts to 200 inch lbs when re-installing.

You should be able to download a free Service Manual for your engine at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The pressure washer didn't want to work today. So, equipped with a handful of rags, we slid thru replacing bolts on the engine. Cleaned off as much of the gue as I could.
Removed the muffler, bolts only hand tight. Removed the carb, again, bolts hand tight. Removed the shroud. One engine bolt was gone. A second one was held by only a few threads. Took out an existing bolt to see the thread and length, checked my shop supply, visited the local hardware store, installed the replacement bolt and lock washer.
I drained off the oil before I started, so a trip to the local 'oil' store tomorrow. Then start it up.
Don't know if the previous owner had attempted a fix and lost his patience or what. Too many bolts missing.
If this doesn't work, I'll take it apart (again) and replace the gasket.
Thanks for confirming the loose bolt possibility, Walt. Motor must have been loose for some time, made a good worn 'dent' in the chassis in 4 places. Mounting bolts were slightly bent, but still useable.
Thanks for the reference help, Jerry.
Keep your toes crossed it works.
 

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The manual is right where I said, it doesn't jump off the screen in your lap, #276781.

Walt Conner

Now that I took my vision-narrowing blinders off:fing20::fing20:, or see that your writing had them on,:sidelaugh:sidelaughI figured out that we were talking about two different things: You were talking "engine manual" and I was thinking "tractor manual"!

:sorry1: Sorry for the screw-up on my part!

So, engine2quarters (Are you a member of a fire department? I hear that when I listen to the Fire & Rescue Service radio channel.), you can now get both pieces of the puzzle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Replaced the engine bolt, added gas and oil, it fired right up. After the initial smoke screen from burning off the oil crud on the muffler, it runs pretty good, and NO OIL LEAK.
 
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