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I picked up a brand new Briggs 16hp cast iron motor at an auction a while back.
I could use a stout tractor for moving my boat in and out of the back yard and to park my camper.
I can't use my truck both due to length and the fact that there's a septic system in the way.

A friend of mine said I should look for an old Simplicity or Allis Chalmers from the 70's or 80's but he's a John Deere guy
and knows very little about them. The motor is still in its crate, its set up to run a driveshaft and has magneto ignition. Its
will run as a stand alone, so other than it fitting under the hood and having a driveshaft, it'll run without anything from the tractor but the battery power. There's two wires tagged on the motor for 'Charging', and a battery pos. and battery ground stud.

I was looking on CL here and found a guy selling a really clean looking Simplicity that had a 17hp in it that blew up years ago, he's willing to sell the rolling tractor alone, no deck, no attachments for $400. It looks super clean, at least compared to everything else I've seen. At least its been kept indoors over the years. He's got another one, also with a bad twin Kohler, this one a 19hp with a rear hitch or some sort and no motor, in similar shape for $500.
There's another seller with a '3410' with no motor and a hydrostat trans in somewhat rough shape for $250, also no deck or attachments. I looked at another one, an Allis 917, with a deck, but not running, apparently seized, for $1200 and the guy won't budge on the price. That one was in the local paper He also has a perfect running 7015 with a three speed for $1850 firm.

$500 is my limit, any more and I'll buy some pos to do the job and sell the motor.
When I found the motor, I didn't figure finding a good chassis would be so hard but so far most everything I look at is either junk, or priced out of my price range. I did find a complete Bolens but the motor turns the wrong way in those for me to make use of the BS, the guy only wanted $800 for a complete 1250 with a deck, plow, snow blower, and trailer. I don't need the attachments, but selling them would offset the price of the tractor.

Is there a particular model Simplicity I should be looking for? I strongly prefer a straight up manual trans vs a hydrostat, but I'm not seeing many that aren't hydrostatic drive.
 

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I am a Simplicity / AC fan .which engine is it?...a single or 2 cylinder?.....I would suggest looking for an even numbered Cub Cadet like a 128....from that era ...they are made like tanks and the rear end is cast iron...just not sure the engine would fit under the hood..here is a link to Tractordata's Simplicity's page...scroll through it and see which ones have Gear transmissions ..stay away from models with "S" in the model..they are shuttle transmissions ...you don't want that...good luck with it...let us see some pictures of which ever one you choose
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was told that Cub Cadet all use only Kohler and the cast iron BS won't fit. There's also the issue of them using a special clutch I'm told that may be a problem to connect to a single cylinder Briggs motor.
One shop here said I need to find either an AC/SImplicity machine, an older Gilson, or early Ford, or find something belt driven like a Sears or Wheel Horse.
I suppose I could retrofit a Briggs Stratton into a hydrostat Cub Cadet but I don't find them around very often. There is a 108 listed now for $800 with no deck and a bad motor but its rough, it looks like its been out on the beach for 40 years. Someone has also cut up the grill and the headlight area for some reason. I think it was someone's pulling tractor.

I'm finding a lot of rusty Simplicity and AC machines too, they all seem to have badly rusted dash towers and frames just below the battery.
I want to avoid belts as much as possible, but that's hard to do on most garden tractors it seems.
 

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I second the mtd 990 suggestion


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The biggest problem you will have putting this engine in a twin cylinder Simp is driveshaft length. A 1975 and later hydro with Sundstrand transmission wouldn't bother me to do what you want. Very positive trans. Single cylinder 7000 or 7100 is what you are looking for and most likely will have less problems with the 7100 because of the wiring differences with the starter/generator types of the 7000 series.
 

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7100 has diffy. problems----weak internals. 917 is the model you want---I have a 917 that I plow with and the diffys on them are all cast iron. also have a 147 cadet that is cast iron diffy. it also will hold up to heavy pulling. ---depends on how heavy you want to pull and how often.
most any unit will hold up to a little hard pulling for short distance/slow speed/part time use. Main thing you want is a heavy unit or one you can weight down without much trouble.
Sunstar 20 is a good one too. ---- 20 hp, 2-speed hydro, diffy lock, power steering, and turning brakes.
 

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"7100 has diffy. problems----weak internals. 917 is the model you want"

Wow. The Allis 917 IS a Simplicity 71xx with different paint and maybe engine. Look at your tags. Built in Port Washington.
 

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917 is NOT a 7100 simp!!! Look at the diffy on them----not even close and yes allis was made by simp!
 

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917 is NOT a 7100 simp!!! Look at the diffy on them----not even close and yes allis was made by simp!
So you refuse to learn? OK then. I'll have to force feed you.
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look at the diffy from the rear!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOT the same!
 

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look at the diffy from the rear!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOT the same!
OK then. They are made of the the EXACT same parts, but they're not the same. You win.
 

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Let's all calm down....agree to disagree and move on......no need for further discussion, the OP has not been around in 3 months
 

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When you toggle between the diagrams they are not exact. Some parts shown on one but not the other. Very similar but not exactly the same. Looks like part of it might depend on the date of manufacture what was added or removed. Either way like Mark said the OP has probably moved on and it's not worth bickering over.
 
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