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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been off and on looking for a reasonably priced tractor for the last year or two. Need something to bush hog and general property maintenance.

So ... I found a Ford 4000 diesel that looks to have had significant work done to it very recently. Guy was not sure of the year .... looks like early 70's maybe?

New short block. Water pump. Starter. Battery cables. Battery. All fliuds/filters. Steering wheel. Axle seals. Trow out bearing. Flywheel ring gear. Paint and decals.

Tires look good.

Seller has said the only thing wrong with the tractor is the headlights do not work .... the instrument panel does not work ..... and the 3pt needs "primed" if it sits for a long period of time.

So I ask ..... what do you think? Is the 3pt problem common on these models?

His asking price is very reasonable IMO ... under $5k.

Tractor is a 4 hour drive and I plan to make the trip tomorrow if things work out.

 

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tractor looks great! i'm gonna say though because of the decals and hood vents its closer to being mid-late 60's. price doesn't sound bad, but i would note to the seller about the 3pt hitch issue. since your primary purpose is brush hogging, you'll need these to work good. headlights not working is pretty common. and i'm assuming its a 2 range 8 speed tranny........even better. should make for a good tractor. you can find out the year and other info by the serial number. its on the starter boss and hopefully its readable
 

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Print these out and take with:

http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/sn.html

http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html

http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/lhcodes_serial.html

The date codes will get you a good idea of when it was made, so long as you are in the right decade/tractor series. Trying to apply this to later/earlier tractors leads to confusion, but for the correct series, this is a great resource from a nice guy.

Got those handy power adjust rear wheels, I see. I don't know much about typical 3 point problems and solutions, unfortunately.

No lights and no instruments may also mean no battery charging, depending what the mice chewed through or ruined in other mousy ways that are not polite to discuss. If the tractor can be parked in range of an outlet for a battery charger, this need not be a big issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
He did say the charging system was in working order and showing nearly 14 volts.

One other funny thing .... the bushings for the lower lift arms are not there in a pic he sent me. I asked about it and he said they are in the toolbox ..... I wasnt aware they were even designed to come out.

Is that right?

 

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yes, the bushings do come out. and ecnerwal is right, that is a great site and great info to have as far as identifying this.
 

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One other funny thing .... the bushings for the lower lift arms are not there in a pic he sent me. I asked about it and he said they are in the toolbox ..... I wasnt aware they were even designed to come out.

Is that right?
The "balls" in those sockets should not come out (not saying that they won't... or haven't... just that they shouldn't). However... if that is, perhaps, a Category II 3-point-hitch... then there may've been a Category I bushing in those sockets... that WILL come out (and should).

If it were the actual "balls" that came out... I'm not certain that it'd be a deal-breaker, but... it is something that I'd probably try to fix.
 

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When those balls come out of the lift arms that means they are worn out. You can get ends to weld on and repair them or buy new arms. The tractor looks good but I feel there are underlying issues and the gauges not working, hydraulics losing prime, etc. are just the more in your face things he cannot hide. I would go over it VERY carefully before putting any money down.
 

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When those balls come out of the lift arms that means they are worn out.
Not necessarily. The 4000 series had the option (at least, I don't know what was standard) of a convertible Cat 1/Cat 2 3 point.

There are spring clips to keep the balls in. While some convertible hitches use one ball with two holes, these use (originally, as far as I know) two different sets of balls with different sized holes. The spring clips to keep the balls in are well-enough known for not working too well when there's nothing on the hitch, that keeping the balls in the toolbox is actually fairly normal among owners of that type of Ford 3-point when nothing is mounted on the 3 point.

And yes, one could just have cat 2 balls and bushings, but for some reason the other approach was preferred, I don't pretend to know why.

Now, if there's no provision for a spring clip (whether or not the spring clip itself has survived) then it might just be worn out. Here's a picture of the clip, I'm having no luck finding a picture of the lift arm end with clip and ball in place.

 

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i keep the balls on the last implement i used with the pin clips. that way i never lose them and they never fall outta the box:trink39:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I believe that he did say it was late 60's ... not 70's.

It has a new alternator on it .... that would explain the tach not working correct? I have a picture of that side of the engine and it is a new style alternator ... I think from the year it would have originally come with a generator??

Could that explain the rest of the gauges not working? When I asked him about it he said something along the lines of "getting them to work with the new style would mean switching the sending units out ....." or something along those lines.

 

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If that hood is original, then it is definitely a '65 through '68 model, as they changed to the hood without the louvers in mid to late '68.

I just noticed the picture showing the external power steering cylinder, os that makes it earlier than mid-1970 for sure, as they changed the power steering in mid-1970 so that everything except the power steering pump was internal to the steering column.

The ball on the 3 point should not be an issue. My parts manual shows all lower lift arms, cat I or II had removable balls with spring clips to hold them in place. In fact, they all used the same exact spring clip part number, the one that Ecnerwal posted the pic for. The part number for the clip is 81814226, which you should be able to get from your nearest new Holland dealer. I lost one last year and bought a few just in case, so now I'll probably never lose one again. They were $5.89 each plus tax.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I called my local New Holland dealer and asked them about the 3pt priming issue ..... knowing full well they wouldnt really be able to give me an answer I was more or less just wanting to talk to them about it.

They said it could be really simple like o-rings .... or it could be more major like something broken. I got a feel for a potential "worst case scenario" repair bill and thanked him for his time.

I am making the trip in the morning to buy the tractor .... I think given the list of positives the potential negatives are manageable.

Once I get the tractor home tomorrow afternoon I will post some more information.

All this is assuming the tractor passes the sniff test on inspection tomorrow. I think it will.

These tractors done have glow plugs do they?

As for the instruments not working ..... there cant be that much to one of these things. Even if I had to completely rewire the thing I cant see it being that bad.

I have turned plenty of wrenches in the past ..... just never on a tractor. I am green. Really green.
 

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No glow plugs. It might have a thermostart system (intake manifold heat - business end looks like a spark plug on the manifold, if complete it would also have a fuel line and a wire running to it, and lights up when key is held left for 20 seconds or so) but those are usually not still functioning at this age unless someone cared to restore it. Factory ether was another option, as was a freeze plug heater (right side, middle of the block.)

None should be needed in summer.
 
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