My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Any issues to know about? Going to look at a 2009 2520, less than 400 hours. Has the CX200 loader and 62" MMM. Supposedly garage-kept, pictures look really nice. I am also looking at an '07 2320 with a few more hours. The 2520 is a couple thou more, but it's only an hour away, the 2320 is over 2-1/2 hours from me. The specs are pretty comparable between the two, dimensions are close but the 2520 is several hundred pounds heavier, which is okay.

I like the idea of a couple more horsepower, the 2520's engine is a slower-turning engine when the specs are compared, more like a big tractor.

Who here has the 2520 and what can you tell me about the model, positive and negative? Do they mow okay, seems like most of them have a mower. I have quite a bit of open, treeless area to mow.
 

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I'll bump this, FWIW.

As soon as my local dealer transfers it to his lot, I'll probably be buying this 2520. I still haven't laid eyes on it or played with it, but the pictures and history look pretty good. 380 hours, 2009 model, garage kept, 62D mower and CX200 loader. Trading in my '08 X748, 54C mower and 45 loader, plus cash. I'm hoping tomorrow or Wednesday.
 

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Need a full report after you dirty it up some...

glenn
Partial report is, I traded the X748 today and bought the 2520. Mowed for 4 hours once I got it home, it's great.
 

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
A little more to report on; once I got it home, I immediately mowed my property, and it was great. Then it was time to learn all about this machine. I read the manuals for the tractor, mower and loader. None of the manuals address the independent mower lift feature this tractor has, it was an option. I had to figure out how it worked by tracing the hydraulic lines; control of the deck lift is by the joystick instead of the 3-point lift, and there is now a lockout valve to shift joystick function between the loader and mower. The thought is that you don't generally mow with the loader in place, so you throw the lever to 'loader' when using it, and to 'mower' when you've removed the loader and installed the deck.

As I started checking maintenance items, I saw that this machine had basic maintenance (oil and trans fluid changes with filters), but other things had been sort of ignored. I found and greased every fitting on the tractor, loader and mower. The two castering front anti-scalp wheels on the deck were strange. when I tried greasing the pivots, I couldn't force grease through the zerk. I took the casters apart, you have to pop a circlip off to remove the shafts. When I took them off, I saw there was no hole in the plastic sleeve bushing where the grease fitting was. I removed the zerk and drilled a hole in both bushings, replaced the zerk, and now I can grease the shaft so it will freely turn. Reassembled the casters and re-installed them on the deck. Luckily nothing had gotten bent or worn enough to require replacement.

The balls on the 3-point hitch were all dry, so they got greased, too. I repaired a crack in the plastic side panel of the hood; apparently, the muffler, which sits on that side, had gotten hot enough that it softened a part of the panel, and once it cooled the stress caused a crack. I used method I saw on a youtube video to repair it by using a heat gun to soften the plastic and imbed wire mesh across the crack. Not perfect, but beats paying for a new panel. I found some muffler heat wrap and made a shield to keep the muffler heat off the panel. Another thing I did was to move the rear lights from the outside to the inside of the ROPS, I'd read where they sometimes get broken when moving under trees, etc. One of the lights was not working when I got the tractor, but it was just a matter of a disconnected wire.

After playing with attaching and removing the deck a few times (it's a drive-over, but not 'autoconnect') to get used to it, and it only takes a couple of minutes, the mower's driveshaft is easier to get to than my X7's was, I attached the loader and my box blade (for rear weight) and cleaned up an area of deadfall trees in the lower pasture. I discovered that a lockout for the joystick (a different one that actually locks the lever so it can't move), was malfunctioning and intermittently jamming the joystick so that only the bucket tilt would work. This necessitated removing the seat and the plastic panels that cover the joystick valve body and lockout lever to figure out what was going on. It turned out to be as simple as a missing cotter pin. Replaced it and things work great again. I would post some pictures of it dirty, but I blow off all the junk when I get through with it. best way to clean a machine is to not let it get dirty. Here's a few pictures of it:
 

Attachments

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey KHodges,
What is that black Tube mounter up on the Roll Bar?
It's a covered container for the operator manuals. I keep them in a large binder with all my other equipment manuals, although when I bought the tractor, it had the manuals for the tractor, loader, and mower in the container. I was happy to get them, usually on a used machine, they aren't there.



What does the 3 Point Hitch look like? Especially the Lower Drag Links?
I have an 07 2520, see my recent post...
https://www.mytractorforum.com/53-john-deere/1337571-universal-3-point-hitch-cat-1-a.html
I don't really know how to answer that. Looks like a normal 3-point hitch. The "drag links" on mine, or sway adjusters, are large turnbuckles. The lower lift arms are straight except for a slight bend on the ends; the links between upper and lower arms are straight, left side is fixed length and right side is adjustable for tilting the implement. In the picture below, the adjustable on is on "backwards", or turned inside-out.

The bar that the lower arms are attached to has a sleeve that is part of the sway adjuster, and a collar-spacer; the bar is held in place by a keeper pin.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,362 Posts
Looks great, ya done good.:tango_face_grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Nice choice. You'll get years of great service with the Yanmar pained JD green.

Due note, keep those air intake filters CLEAN to help prevent any overheating issues.

It's similar to it's sibling tractor, the Cub Cadet EX3200 made by Yanmar too.
 

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Nice choice. You'll get years of great service with the Yanmar pained JD green.

Due note, keep those air intake filters CLEAN to help prevent any overheating issues.

It's similar to it's sibling tractor, the Cub Cadet EX3200 made by Yanmar too.
This makes my second Yanmar tractor, and third with a Yanmar engine. My first was an 1810D paddy tractor. It was a good machine but a bit underpowered for my needs, It was rated 22 horsepower and 16 PTO, and had a "Powershift" transmission. 3 forward speeds and you could shift without using the clutch. The PTO was not live, when you pressed the clutch it stopped power to the PTO. It was 4WD, though.

I'm also up on the "screen cleaning" and keeping the air filters clean, the X748 was worse than the 2520 has been so far. I'm more and more impressed with this 2520. I had my PTO wood chipper going most of the afternoon, cleaning up limbs I throw in a pile when they fall in the yard. It was high time to get rid of the pile, and the chipper, my landscape rake and loader got a good workout today.

The CC EX2900 is closer to my 2520, but it also has a bigger engine and a couple more horsepower. The EX3200 is more equivalent to the 3032E.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
This makes my second Yanmar tractor, and third with a Yanmar engine. My first was an 1810D paddy tractor. It was a good machine but a bit underpowered for my needs, It was rated 22 horsepower and 16 PTO, and had a "Powershift" transmission. 3 forward speeds and you could shift without using the clutch. The PTO was not live, when you pressed the clutch it stopped power to the PTO. It was 4WD, though.

I'm also up on the "screen cleaning" and keeping the air filters clean, the X748 was worse than the 2520 has been so far. I'm more and more impressed with this 2520. I had my PTO wood chipper going most of the afternoon, cleaning up limbs I throw in a pile when they fall in the yard. It was high time to get rid of the pile, and the chipper, my landscape rake and loader got a good workout today.

The CC EX2900 is closer to my 2520, but it also has a bigger engine and a couple more horsepower. The EX3200 is more equivalent to the 3032E.
Actually, the YM1810D was considered PTO live as the power-shift allowed forward, neutral and reverse in that range selection. The PTO never spins down in the power-shift neutral. Thus, you can mow forwards stop and reverse without having the PTO disengage.

Glad the 'live' PTOs on today's machines are live no matter what selection range you pick or even change into. A bit different, but more rewarding.

I can understand the 1810D being a bit underpowered. That's a reason why I've gone to the YM2610. Still fits in tight places, has the right balance of power and sips fuel like it could last months. :tango_face_grin:

What became of the YM1810D then?
 

·
AKA Moses Lawnagan
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
What became of the YM1810D then?
I sold it to a guy who needed something to take care of a deer hunting cabin and field. Sold a blade and cultivator and a 50" Land Pride rototiller with it. Took the money from the sale and paid 2/3 of my X748SE with it. That was in 2008. Had I known better, I should have bought what I have now, could have got it new. :tango_face_smile_bi

The powershift tranny was kind of weird, I thought. If you didn't use the clutch and put it in gear, it would surge forward (or backward), so you better be ready, and reverse was about as fast at a given throttle position as 2nd gear. Reminded me a little of the Selectomatic transmission the Ford Powermaster was available with, you had 12 speeds and could shift on the fly.

With the Powershift, you had a foot throttle as well as the lever, so I learned to leave the hand throttle at idle and use the foot throttle like you would with a manual transmission. If the tractor had had more power, I might have kept it.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top