That was the sole reason for the long frame to start with. No 60", no worries. But the next thing that you get after getting rid of the long frame will be a 60" deck.
Long frame 8000 - keep or sell
I have a 8129 tractor that is fair to poor shape. It needs a paint job, a steering wheel, tires, battery, deck rebuild, engine rebuild/replace. I am starting to question why I should keep the long frame tractor. Isn't the turning radius larger on the long frame tractors?
I could put a 16hp Briggs on the 8129 and turn it into a 8169. Is there anything about the long frame tractor that makes it more desirable other than the ability to run a 60" deck? I don't have a 60" deck and I don't foresee one showing up at my door anytime soon.
I could put a 16hp Briggs on the 8129 and turn it into a 8169. Is there anything about the long frame tractor that makes it more desirable other than the ability to run a 60" deck? I don't have a 60" deck and I don't foresee one showing up at my door anytime soon.
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
I read another thread about deck width vs turning radius.
I believe the consensus is that you can trim closer with a wider deck.
But, if you do not have a wide deck, the point is moot!
I have another color tractor in long frame and short frame. I have upgraded the short frame to the larger tire size of the long frame.
I feel for general (non-mowing) yard work, the shorter wheelbase gives more function if the machines weigh the same and are powered similarly.
The long wheelbase machine will tow a ridiculously heavy trailer better.
The short wheelbase machine will take less space in the shed!!
:dunno:
I believe the consensus is that you can trim closer with a wider deck.
But, if you do not have a wide deck, the point is moot!
I have another color tractor in long frame and short frame. I have upgraded the short frame to the larger tire size of the long frame.
I feel for general (non-mowing) yard work, the shorter wheelbase gives more function if the machines weigh the same and are powered similarly.
The long wheelbase machine will tow a ridiculously heavy trailer better.
The short wheelbase machine will take less space in the shed!!
:dunno:
For me the answer is Leverage. Though it is a minor point, there is a difference. Run a 44 inch snow blower on the front of a short frame tractor, then a long frame tractor, then a longer frame 24G... and you will experience the difference in traction and control. This also applies to running the rear tiller. When the weight rack is further out front you will get more leverage. Though I have not tried the rear tiller yet on the 24G.Is there anything about the long frame tractor that makes it more desirable other than the ability to run a 60" deck?
Leverage is one of the reasons I am set on getting the Kwik-Way front end loader installed on one of my 24G tractors. With the same amount of counter weight on the rear, I can lift more and/or have better traction and control.
All the best,
Tom
It's a tough call. I know I keep thinking I want a long frame but i don't see any 60" decks in my future and I can put a short frame in the bed of my truck with the deck off which is nice.
It would be nice to tow my trailers with out the front coming up so easily but I also could just build a weight rack for the front and keep the short wheel base.
It really comes down to whether or not you want another rider?
It would be nice to tow my trailers with out the front coming up so easily but I also could just build a weight rack for the front and keep the short wheel base.
It really comes down to whether or not you want another rider?
If I really need a wide deck, I have the 24G. I see no reason to really build the 8129 into a proper tractor with an Onan twin. Maybe I will fix it, put the 16hp Briggs on it and delegate it for light duty work like pulling trailers. I really want to standardize on the Onan twin engines for all my 4 wheel tractors but finding a good Onan that will work on a Gravely is tough around here. I might have to buy an engine and put a proper crankshaft in it if I want a all-purpose long frame tractor.
Agree. Little better ride too. Regarding the turning radius, either swap in a Pro-G front axle or grind the stops off the existing axle to match. I saw a big difference in the turning radius when I moved a 16-G axle to my 8179/816 project. Even just rolling it around in the garage was easier.For me the answer is Leverage. Though it is a minor point, there is a difference. Run a 44 inch snow blower on the front of a short frame tractor, then a long frame tractor, then a longer frame 24G... and you will experience the difference in traction and control. This also applies to running the rear tiller. When the weight rack is further out front you will get more leverage. Though I have not tried the rear tiller yet on the 24G.
Leverage is one of the reasons I am set on getting the Kwik-Way front end loader installed on one of my 24G tractors. With the same amount of counter weight on the rear, I can lift more and/or have better traction and control.
All the best,
Tom
What becomes the stop then? Can you get pictures of the front axle at full lock, etc to show the difference. I'm curious about doing this....Agree. Little better ride too. Regarding the turning radius, either swap in a Pro-G front axle or grind the stops off the existing axle to match. I saw a big difference in the turning radius when I moved a 16-G axle to my 8179/816 project. Even just rolling it around in the garage was easier.
18G:What becomes the stop then? Can you get pictures of the front axle at full lock, etc to show the difference. I'm curious about doing this....
816 Project which is a 16-G axle with 8179 king pins, tie rods and arms:
Looks to me like the "stops" are somewhere underneath, but I'm not in a position to crawl under and take a look.
2
Thanks for the pictures Marc! It also looks like the dimension from CL of King Pin to CL of tie rod end is longer than the 800 original setup. Are my eyes playing tricks?
Your eye is accurate to atleast 3/4 of an inch. The 8000/G is 4" and the 800 is 3.25".Thanks for the pictures Marc! It also looks like the dimension from CL of King Pin to CL of tie rod end is longer than the 800 original setup. Are my eyes playing tricks?
What did the longest one come off of. My 8199KT, 16-G, and 24-G have the 4" cl to cl. All with clinch bolts.There are more different lengths than that.
I don't know what CL means but the pieces are identical on my 18G and 8179KT. They are both 5.5" long overall.What did the longest one come off of. My 8199KT, 16-G, and 24-G have the 4" cl to cl. All with clinch bolts.
My 16G came with arms that were not "split", and that were shorter than those on an 18G/20G.
I had to change them to the 18G/20G parts to install the 18G/20G tie rods and ends which are heavier. The 18G/20G arms are 4" center to center, I don't have the orginal 16G parts anymore, but they were shorter and would not work with the 18G/20G tire rods - I tried it.
The G series IPL as two seperate pages for steering - one for 14G/16G tractors and one for 18G/20G tractors. The tie rod ends and sterring arems are different between the two.
Sheldon
I had to change them to the 18G/20G parts to install the 18G/20G tie rods and ends which are heavier. The 18G/20G arms are 4" center to center, I don't have the orginal 16G parts anymore, but they were shorter and would not work with the 18G/20G tire rods - I tried it.
The G series IPL as two seperate pages for steering - one for 14G/16G tractors and one for 18G/20G tractors. The tie rod ends and sterring arems are different between the two.
Sheldon
It amazes (and scares) me how I can look at something and 5 minutes later, forget what I saw. So here are some pictures. An 812, an 8199KT, a 16-G and a 20-G. And the 16-G is as Sheldon described it, not as I did.
Attachments
-
143.4 KB Views: 65 -
141.9 KB Views: 67 -
144.6 KB Views: 67 -
140.1 KB Views: 70
CenterLine to CenterLine. Center of axle weldment hole to center of tie rod hole in this case.I don't know what CL means but the pieces are identical on my 18G and 8179KT. They are both 5.5" long overall.
Sorry and thanks Don. The critical measurement is between the holes. So in the drafting world, holes are always located by their center.
Richard to your original question, I have both a long frame (8179KT) and a short frame (816). If I've been using the 816 for any length of time and then get on the 8179 the difference always amazes me. The 8179 feels like driving a Cadillac compared to the 816. The longer wheelbase makes a huge difference in ride and stability. While I like my 816 it's the last short frame I'll ever own. Plus I think the long frame tractors look better too.
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
My Tractor Forum
A family friendly forum community dedicated to all Tractor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
MARK (LI)
433 Replies
PA318Guy
367 Replies
Ariens93GT20
322 Replies
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!
