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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Rear loader arm welding is now almost ready. A hook will be welded in the middle of the lower beam as soon as the blacksmith gets it forged. And I am still considering triangular strengthening parts outside of the loader arms.

2509871
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
After about three rounds of disassembly and assembly all the gauges are properly mounted. I added a support plate behind the integral foam mold panel to keep gauges more firmly in right places without bending the dash. Changes to the original are that engine stop button is added to this panel, as well as hydraulic oil gauge. And ampere meter is replaced by voltmeter. Only oil pressure warning light remains here, other warning lights are moved to lower panel around light switch and hydraulic controls. Open hole in lower left row is where the steering column is.
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Discussion Starter · #124 · (Edited)
I made a bracket for tow hitch from 60 mm x 10 mm (about 2-3/8" x 3/8") flat iron. I don't have tools to bend this thick stuff, so I cut deep grooves, hammered the bends and then welded it back to solid piece. Small hole will be made bigger for a bolt mounted European standard 50 mm ball type hitch. This hitch bracket will then be welded to the rear loader cylinder mounting console.
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Discussion Starter · #125 · (Edited)
No loose ends anymore. I got the new fuse box connected, which finalizes the chassis wiring. Still some work to do to implement new improved diagram to the dashboard wiring. Three upper fuses are powered when ignition is on, two on bottom have permanent power and the one in between remains as reserve.
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A bolt-on console for the rear loader cylinder bottom mount is now ready for painting. The purpose of this console is to drop the cylinder bottom mount 65 mm (about 2-9/16") lower than the original to achieve the desired lifting height and force. See post #111 for the sketch.
2518282


This completed the fabrication of the rear loader. Here is the final kinematics check with the cylinder showing the full range of the loader arm movement.
2518284

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Discussion Starter · #126 · (Edited)
New improved dashboard electric diagram looks like this
Schematic Rectangle Font Engineering Parallel

And this is the reality after all the connections are made.
Circuit component Electronic engineering Computer hardware Audio equipment Electronic component

Of course it will become nicer and more organized when I tie the wires up in bundles with cable ties. I added 3 mm PVC plate (light grey) to support the area where gauges and ignition switch are mounted because the integral foam mold console is a bit flabby. Engine stop button connector socket has multiple unused connector slots, which I utilized as power supply connection points marked with small circles in the diagram.
Front face can be seen in post #123.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Rear loader cylinder needed to be turned upside down to get better place for the hydraulic connectors. And because the rod-end eye is very narrow compared to the very wide tube end bearing, we needed to add two additional supporting members to the bottom mounting console to prevent bending the pin or shaft. I have now some repainting to do.
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior
 

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I use scissors! Twice a week.
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That's my problem...I know to wait until after I've tested what I fab to make sure everything works well, but then I don't want to take everything apart to paint it up nice...
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
The size of the hose fittings on the hydraulic cylinder surprised me. All that are currently available are much bulkier than the ones used originally in this tractor.

Only problem is that I don't know how to brush or grind the welds between the parts before painting.
 

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Slag?
I thought I was the last man alive still welding with stick!
I use a steel rod or a punch, hit with a hammer to remove slag where I can't hammer directly.
Then paint it; it usually works fine and when it doesn't, just paint it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
No you are not the last man! 😄 I prefer welding with stick, and I get better welds with stick than with my lousy mig. I'd like to try a decent mig sometime.
 

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A friend of mine had a powerful MIG machine, it was great to use.
Thick material was no problem, but it had to be really clean; basically, it was better than stick when welding new material.
But it could fool you; it was possible to get a really good looking weld that had no penetration if you didn't crank up the power on heavy material.
Very fast, little smoke, and no slag.

I used his a few times, but never got one of my own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 · (Edited)
A new panel for hydraulic valve controls, indicator lights and light switch is beginning to get its shape. It is 3 mm (1/8") PVC and right edge is bent down to keep the dashboard console in shape. The opening for the new valve controls under the panel is rather big and coming close to the right edge, therefore the console needs some additional support.
Tool Gas Electric blue Cylinder Pipe


White Light Vehicle Audio equipment Automotive design


Still need to round corners and make holes for mounting screws. And then fill the hole of the original light switch, which remains visible on upper right corner.

Additionally I have to decide if I want to keep the panel grey or spray it with black rubber coating. I would have bought black ABS, but it seems to be difficult to get in small quantities.
 

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TnTkr,

I believe I've read some of this before but never commented so I just read it all again. Great work and design. Here's a little trick that brick masons use on sealant joints, we use a lot of Sikaflex here at the university, is to mix dish washing detergent (Dawn) with water in a spray bottle. Once you have the sealent in the joint, spray it with soapy solution and you can mold it, form it to your liking. Walk away and wash off the soapy solution once the sealant has set up some,

Again, great work and looking forward to your finished product.

CCMoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Some words about the indicator lights and light switch. Original light switch was Hella rocker switch, which was not working very well and mounted not so nice way. I was lucky to found a decent rotating switch which has much better usability. Equally lucky was to found original type warning lights.
 

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I just discovered this thread. I didn't understand most of the hydraulics stuff, but that is okay, I enjoyed the pictures and progress. For a small machine, there is a LOT of stuff happening under the body. And Your welds look really good to my non-professional eye.
 
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