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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I made a comparative adhesion test for the center console repair. I glued one small piece of aramid fabric with Soudal elastic adhesive (similar to Sika 221) and another with Good Vibrations Seat Magic (thanks for the advice to Newsman). Both stick very hard on the base material, when it is cleaned throroughly with acetone. Elastic adhesive is so thick it does not go well between the fibres of the aramid fabric, whereas Seat Magic is thinner and impregnates the fabric and thus sticks very hard. Only with lot of effort I managed to tear some of the aramid from the Seat Magic adhesive. It will be the winner for the actual repair.

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
The hydraulics is now completed. As you see, it's pretty crowded there. There is just enough space for the battery.

2498044


The tractor didn't have a hydraulic oil temperature gauge, which is strange. When the specialist overhauled and repaired the drive hydraulics' variable displacement pump, he told there has been some previous damage and repair, probably due to overheating. This Danfoss VPA 20 pump type is very sensitive to temperature, it is crucial to keep the oil below 70 ºC (158 ºF).

I didn't want to punch the tank for a sensor. But when rearranging the tank lines, one 3/8" port remained un-used (see the red plug in the middle). I think the block connecting drive hydraulics' and accessory hydraulics' tank lines is quite good place to monitor oil temperature. Temperature sensor and gauge are on the way. They should arrive early next week.

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Adding an oil cooler would be very tricky. I didn't make any such changes, that would increase heat. Therefore I believe the temperature will stay most of the time within acceptable range. If there will be situations, when it starts to rise too high, I can ease up a bit.

The battery is in its original place, and there has been no problems. Besides a battery can stand more heat than can be in that place when the hydraulics is at max. allowed temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 · (Edited)
This weekend I started to make the repairs on the self-skinned polyurethane integral foam dash/center console. I poured Good Vibrations Seat Magic repair glue into the crack from the backside and then clamped the console so that the crack closed and excessive glue extruded out. Then added some more of it and pressed the aramid fabric strengthening patch to the glue beginning from center until excessive glue gushed from all sides and the patch felt to be tightly on the surface. Finally I spread some more seat magic all over the aramid to ensure it's thoroughly impregnated and will have maximum adhesion. With aramid fabric it's also important to seal it carefully to prevent it absorbing water, oil or whatever liquids.

Front face of the console will follow after all cracks are repaired from backside.

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
External hydraulic hoses to hub motors got spiral wraps to protect and keep them nicely tied. Radiator and fuel tank assembled. Exhaust waiting for some fixing parts.

2499234
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I got electrics sorted out for drawing a diagram. Now I can make the plan for improvements like work lights, USB charger, clock and additional gauges. I'll also connect engine stop solenoid to permanent plus. Previously it was powered only when driving lights were switched on. I found it rather annoying, that you couldn't stop the engine if the lights were off.

Below you can see white teflon sliding block for connecting the drive hydraulics pump control rod (vertical) to the horizontal arm of the drive pedal shaft. The design is not perfect, because it applies some radial force to the control rod at the end of the movement range. I will to add a mechanical stop to pedal in order to avoid excessive force on the control rod.

Picture shows also about 3 mm (1/8") gap between the pedal shaft arm and steering bevel box.

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I also installed an electric engine block heater, when the engine was still dry from coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I had a closer look at the steel frame supporting the plastic hullwork (or what should I call it). It had some rust in welds so I decided to take it off and get sandblasted and painted. Now it looks good again.

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
I finalized the design for rear loader and had the loader arms cut at a shop. It's 12 mm (1/2") S355 steel. It's finally time for fabrication.

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I have also been figuring out the electrics and sketching a diagram to design the modifications. I thought it was clear already some weeks ago, but then I discovered some more peculiarities. Besides I was not succesful in obtaining the components I was wishing to use, so I need to design plan B.

Originally there has not been permanent power for any lights or other units, only when power is switched on with starter key switch. I will add a permanent powered circuit for parking lights, warning beacon, work lights and a clock. That is not a big effort as I replaced the original torpedo fuse box with a Blue Sea Systems blade fuse box with 6 independent circuits. It is easy to configure according to my needs with input side terminal jumpers.

I will replace the light switch with a new one that has separate circuits and power supplies for parking lights and driving lights, and add a separate panel for work light switches and a panel clock. I will also add indicator lights for blinkers and high beam lights, which were not included in the original design. And a cigarette lighter type socket for phone charger and hand held work light. On the dashboard I added a hydraulic oil temperature gauge and replaced the amps meter with volt meter, which I consider much more useful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I assume you mean pressure gauge for hydraulics. No, I don't have it, but sounds an interesting idea. I'd actually need two: one for drive hydraulics and another for accessory hydraulics :)
 

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Yes, I mean for hydraulic pressure.
It really helps you see what the system is doing, how much work is being done or how much load is on your lift cylinders.
Like; how overloaded is it exactly?
On the other hand, it's another tube and several connections that could fail one day. But on a machine like yours with 100 connections and many hoses, it's not significantly more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
😂 You are absolutely right, it would add connectors by very small percentage only. I think bigger problem would be finding space for those connectors and the gauge itself.
 

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Well still a problem for the space for gauge, but they do make wireless oil pressure gauges for no connections. But I would bet they are big 💲💲💲.
MikeC
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I have been quite busy with work and other things, and therefore very little has happened on the tractor during last month. Yesterday I assembled the sandblasted and painted steel frame and new seat supporting plywood underneath the plastic bodywork. Fastening bolts were still missing when I took the picture.

2508032
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
The plastic bodywork and integral mold dash panel are actually the parts of the tractor that were and still are the core competence of the Lokari company. Design of mechanics, hydraulics and electrics of the tractor were all outsourced, as well as some of the parts manufacturing. For example the cab was made by the Lokari's owner's brother's company. Lokari company manufactured the plastic parts, welded the steel frame and axles, and made the final assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 · (Edited)
I fitted the dash console to make new openings for the new 5-spool accessory hydraulics valve monoblock instead of the old 4-spool monoblock. I cut the integral mold rather roughly to make the needed space for the spool controls. I know it now looks like rat has been gnawing it. My plan is to make an aluminum cover plate with five oval slots, one for each spool control. Like a shift gate. The plate will also have openings for headlight switch and some additional warning and indicator lights. I haven't figured out yet what to do with the old switch slots on right. Maybe I just need to cover it as well.

The throttle lever in the left is not well aligned with the slot. That's how it was, but I didn't remember it when we worked on the new valve block mounting. I need to have another look if the control lever could be modified.

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