[Mark in Portugal]

Our local shop is competitive; but it sure adds up.
6 per end + 6 per meter. A handful of adaptors / fittings went in there too, at 6 Euros each.
When I'm feeling really miserly, I make my own fittings at home to save the 6 euros.
the black couplers on the valve block for instance; cost to make just 1 or 2 euros each and maybe an hour of work.

 

[TnTkr]

Very nice work!

 

[Mark in Portugal]

New valve block from flowfit UK, much less restriction than the historic one that came with the tractor.
Good thing I got it before Brexit; nothing is coming through now. What a mess!

 

[TnTkr]

Yes, Brexit has caused a lot for trouble. I used to order quite much stuff from UK, but now it needs to go though the customs process which takes time and then have to pay VAT and customs and process fee.

 

[Mark in Portugal]

We need to find new suppliers I think; or maybe companies like flowfit will open EU depots for their EU customers.
Few of their products are made in the UK, the valve block above is Italian.
I've been getting my bearings from the UK too, and I was going to order some gears but now it's too late.
Like the hydraulics, those things aren't UK manufactured, it was just the EU free trade zone that allowed them to buy and sell cheaply, and the large UK internet sales volume.

It seems like everyone has been caught by surprise, even though we all knew Brexit was coming. I bought a lot of stuff (tools especially) from there over the last year, getting it while I could.

I'm hunting for German and Italian internet shops. I'm trying Portugal too, but good prices are rare here.
Most people buy local, so there's little need to lower prices to compete with shops farther away.

 

[TnTkr]

I think British internet shops will utilize Northern Ireland for selling to EU. Unfortunately most things I have been buying from UK were from small companies .

 

[TnTkr]

Drive hydraulics control block is now on place, most hoses connected but no bracket yet. It's now lifted about 4" higher for better space for connectors and serviceability. Unfortunately that was not considered when I bought the new hoses so there might be some conflicts with the hoses and battery, which is between this block and hydraulic pumps, but we'll see.

Now when engine is finally mounted you can see how tight but successful fit there is for the steering bevel box with joints. You can also see the added plug on the flywheel housing to check and lubricate the chain coupling.

 

[Mark in Portugal]

Looking better every day.
And more crowded.

 

[TnTkr]

Spent one night to get smooth nice routes for the hoses and to leave the space for the battery between the drive hydraulics control block and accessory hydraulics pump. Hoses needed to be disconnected and reconnected dozens of times until it started to look good. I also learned that there is a specific order to get the connectors tightened on the block. It's so crowded that the wrench cannot be turned when next connector is in place.

Because the block was raised about 4" up to get the connections to better reachable position, the hoses to rear hub motors are now too long. I'm reluctant to pay for new set so had to make hose loops under the block to waste the excess length.

Next thing to do is to start fitting the new accessory hydraulics valve block above the pump.

I also got some new information of the block from a seasoned hydraulics engineer who worked on the later version of Lokari Horse tractor back in 80's. He had a task to make a complete redesign to the drive hydraulics, so he had to acquaint himself to that first version. I learned that inside the drive hydraulics block there are three hydraulically controlled (by manual three-way valve) flow divider valves (between the big plugs seen in the pictures), which together act as diff lock for all four wheels when activated. Of course with the limitation that flow divider actually works only when the flow is close to maximum value and does nothing when the engine is at low rpm or drive pedal is not asking for full flow. Now I may have sufficient information to reverse engineer the hydraulics diagram.

This reverse engineering reminds me of my summer trainee task in 90's when I had to make a pneumatic diagram and assembly drawings of a vehicle, which was already made in series by experienced mechanics without any other documentation than parts list.


BTW, are the terms drive hydraulics and accessory hydraulics correct and understandable to you native English speakers?

 

[9297oldram]

Spent one night to get smooth nice routes to the hoses and to leave the space for the battery between the drive hydraulics control block and accessory hydraulics pump. Hoses needed to be disconnected and reconnected dozens of times until it started to look good. I also learned that there is a specific order to get the connectors tightened on the block. It's so crowded that the wrench cannot be turned when next connector is in place.

Because the block was raised about 4" up to get the connections better reachable position, the hoses to rear hub motors are now too long. I'm reluctant to pay for new set so had to make hose loops under the block to waste the excessive hose.

Next thing to do is to start fitting the new accessory hydraulics valve block above the pump.

I also got some new information of the block from a seasoned hydraulics engineer who worked on the later version of Lokari Horse tractor back in 80's. He had a task to make a complete redesign to the drive hydraulics, so he had to acquaint himself to that first version. I learned that inside the drive hydraulics block there are three hydraulically controlled (by manual three-way valve) flow divider valves (between the big plugs seen in the pictures), which together act as diff lock for all four wheels when activated. Of course with the limitation that flow divider actually works only when the flow is close to maximum value and does nothing when the engine is at low rpm or drive pedal is not asking for full flow. Now I may have sufficient information to reverse engineer the hydraulics diagram.

This reverse engineering reminds me of my summer trainee task in 90's when I had to make a pneumatic diagram and assembly drawings of a vehicle, which was already made in series by experienced mechanics without any other documentation than parts list.


BTW, are the terms drive hydraulics and accessory hydraulics correct and understandable to you native English speakers?

I understand the difference on the hydraulics.

 

[TnTkr]

I posted a question of the drive hydraulics to the Hydraulics sub-forum. I'd like to know if my assumption regarding the drive hydraulics control block is viable and plausible.

 

[TnTkr]

About the price of hydraulic hoses. I needed ten hose assemblies, mostly ID 3/8" and two ID 5/8" 3/4". Average length was 1.3 m and average price 22 € per hose. That is 4.3 ft and 27 US$.

 

[TnTkr]

We have been inventing a mounting brackets for the new accessory hydraulics valve block in a position, where all the space constraints can be taken into account. Then lots of pondering around the hydraulic lines. Previously all the lines where steel pipes but we decided it is easier and better to make first 4-10" with hose. And the one new valve with hoses all the way to the cuick coupling. The space is very limited and it is going to be very crowded under the block, and my friend's experience and knowledge about different existing fitting types has been invaluable when trying to find best solutions. After trying different combinations with different 0, 45 and 90 degree fittings and hose routings, it looks like we finally have a solution. Now I need to find time to visit the hydraulics store and get those hoses made.

I also learned that the original design regarding the tank lines creates a risk of serious damage to the drive hydraulics pump. The pump case leak line must not be combined with any large volume flow tank line due to the risk of pressure peaks. Pump case leak line has to have at least check valve or rather an independent line to the tank. It might also be that hub motor leak lines should be treated respectively.

The dashboard console is made of rather flexible self-skinned integral foam, probably urethane. I have tried to find a method to repair some cracks, that it has. I didn't find any suggestions from the Internet. I made a small test on invisible place with 2k urethane glue. Adhesion is great, but it became too hard and would probably just tear the original material. Now I plan to use 1k urethane or MS-Polymer elastic adhesive sealant and add some strengthening fabric e.g. aramid (kevlar/twaron) on backside. I would be glad to hear your suggestions or experiences for repairing an integral foam.

 

[Mark in Portugal]

Get rid of it and make a new one from a better material?

 

[TnTkr]

Maybe not, it would be too much of a job. Besides the console has to be flexible to get mounted. I'll try to repair it.

 

[tiretrx]

Just went through your entire thread, and found it quite fascinating. I plan on going over it again. My compliments to your approach, fixes and attention to detail. I'll be following along

 

[TnTkr]

Thank you! I'm glad to hear that you have found the project interesting to follow!

 

[TnTkr]

Few more words about the console repair. I have searched through the Internet and MTF. It seems most threads lean toward covering the damage or replacing the part.

What I am looking for is a glue or adhesive, which remains elastic, maintains the elasticity of the original material and has good adhesion to both the foam and the skin. I have found no experiences of different elastic adhesive types in this kind of application. There seems to be at least polyurethane based and MS-polymer based elastic adhesives. I have no idea which one, or maybe something else, would be better.

 

[dave_r]

You might look for automobile dash repair products? I haven't researched if anything is available now, but I recall back the 70's a product that would glue vinyl back together, including a bunch of pigments to color match it to the vinyl.

 

[TnTkr]

I have looked at the vinyl repair kits, like 3M leather and vinyl repair kit, but what I have found are not convincing regarding the ability to actually glue the crack surfaces together.. In this case there is no need to fill anything or mimic the original surface, as no material is missing.

If there are some, that claim to have strong adhesion, I'd be happy to hear suggestions