Lokari Horse small tractor repair and modification
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It is a very different to anything else we see here too 😁. In fact there is no other similar tractor in here either. Small Kubotas, JD Gators and compact loaders have become more popular for the similar use. Lokari Horse was intended and has been mainly used in small yards or municipal areas for snow ploughing, lawn mowing and pavement brushing, although the manufacturer envisioned other uses too, as the marketing pictures from 80's show. The man in the yellow tractor is Leo Laine, the founder and CEO of the Lokari company.
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It's good to get pieces back together, although there is still lot to repair and redesign.
Here is the new king pin mounted on the wheel hub and secured with thread locking compound.
![2482730]()
And here is the front wheel swivel mechanism finally assembled and connected to the rack. What would be more appropriate than a castle nut (crown nut) on top of a king pin 😁.
![2482731]()
Next things are mounting hydraulic pumps to the engine and fitting the new steering shaft and bevel box (when they arrive).
Here is the new king pin mounted on the wheel hub and secured with thread locking compound.
And here is the front wheel swivel mechanism finally assembled and connected to the rack. What would be more appropriate than a castle nut (crown nut) on top of a king pin 😁.
Next things are mounting hydraulic pumps to the engine and fitting the new steering shaft and bevel box (when they arrive).
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Thank you, I really hope it will last. The structure is not optimal considering strength, as the load on fron axle puts quite much torque to the lower end of the king pin. I shall remember that when using the tractor, to avoid overloading the front. And I will defenitely mount the scoop to rear.
And yes, my friend is really skillful in making machines, and he is an excellent designer too. We've been working on the same company developing and building military vehicles for more than 20 years, both of us started there as designer.
And yes, my friend is really skillful in making machines, and he is an excellent designer too. We've been working on the same company developing and building military vehicles for more than 20 years, both of us started there as designer.
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There is a chain coupling between the engine and hydraulic pump. That was something new to me, but after studying a bit, it seems a feasible solution. However it was fully enclosed inside the flywheel housing without any means to lubricate it after assembly. Therefore a plug was added to the left side of the flywheel housing to enable spraying some lube and inspecting the coupling time to time. Suitable plug size and type was found from 80's Saab 900.
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When mounting the overhauled hydraulic pump back I found out that the threads on aluminum flywheel housing were damaged and practically failed. Not really a surprise considering the load and the material properties. Now I need to get a helicoil thread insert mounted to both two threads. I'm lucky it got found now, and with thread inserts it will be better than new.
Just for curiosity, one interesting solution in this tractor is the hand brake. Brake pad is pressed by a lever and cam against the machined rear surface of the hub. Yes, that is very simple and innovative, but also questionable because the force which is pressing the pad is directly radial load to the hub motor. But it has not caused any problem this far, so I'm think it will not cause problems in future either.
![2483678]()
When mounting the overhauled hydraulic pump back I found out that the threads on aluminum flywheel housing were damaged and practically failed. Not really a surprise considering the load and the material properties. Now I need to get a helicoil thread insert mounted to both two threads. I'm lucky it got found now, and with thread inserts it will be better than new.
Just for curiosity, one interesting solution in this tractor is the hand brake. Brake pad is pressed by a lever and cam against the machined rear surface of the hub. Yes, that is very simple and innovative, but also questionable because the force which is pressing the pad is directly radial load to the hub motor. But it has not caused any problem this far, so I'm think it will not cause problems in future either.
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Preliminary measurements and try on proved positive, that a bevel box from Toyota van can be fitted to steering shaft. Actually it seems to fit there quite nicely between the frame, engine and hydraulic pump. Only one mounting lug is too close to the flywheel housing and needs to be removed. I forgot to take pictures, but I will post photos when fitting it engine mounted.
I actually noticed that there is about 1.125:1 gear ratio in that bevel box. That is an advantage, because that reduces the steering effort correspondingly.
I actually noticed that there is about 1.125:1 gear ratio in that bevel box. That is an advantage, because that reduces the steering effort correspondingly.
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After installing helicoil thread inserts the hydraulic pumps could be mated with the engine. Also the three threads on flywheel housing for steering column were damaged and got helicoils.
![2484338]()
Bevel box got mounted directly to frame. I like it very much that no additional bracket is needed. And only small cutouts were needed on the frame flange.
![2484339]()
And when engine and pumps are lifted on place, the bevel box fits there even better than I envisioned. Maybe it could still be moved some millimeters (maybe 1/4") forward to get more space around the drive hydraulic pump control rod. Making mounting holes oval gives the sufficient play.¨Bolts in the picture are just for trial. I think I'll get some round head bolts to prevent catching and ripping the shoes. You know, Crocs are not especially tear resistant. 😏
![2484340]()
Steering column angle had to be slightly adjusted, but now the random bar mimicking the steering shaft meets the bevel box input shaft. Suitable connecting joint for the input can be found from many Toyota and Lexus models. I ordered an inexpensive spare from the net and it should arrive soon. The shaft coming from the steering wheel will be modified to connect with the joint. Output shaft will be made by combining Toyota output shaft that came with the bevel box and tractors original shaft, both of which actually can be seen laying in front of the engine in previous picture.
![2484341]()
Bevel box got mounted directly to frame. I like it very much that no additional bracket is needed. And only small cutouts were needed on the frame flange.
And when engine and pumps are lifted on place, the bevel box fits there even better than I envisioned. Maybe it could still be moved some millimeters (maybe 1/4") forward to get more space around the drive hydraulic pump control rod. Making mounting holes oval gives the sufficient play.¨Bolts in the picture are just for trial. I think I'll get some round head bolts to prevent catching and ripping the shoes. You know, Crocs are not especially tear resistant. 😏
Steering column angle had to be slightly adjusted, but now the random bar mimicking the steering shaft meets the bevel box input shaft. Suitable connecting joint for the input can be found from many Toyota and Lexus models. I ordered an inexpensive spare from the net and it should arrive soon. The shaft coming from the steering wheel will be modified to connect with the joint. Output shaft will be made by combining Toyota output shaft that came with the bevel box and tractors original shaft, both of which actually can be seen laying in front of the engine in previous picture.
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Nice work again.
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The part numbers for the ones I'm using are:
45209 input joint used since 80's in many Toyota and Lexus cars and vans e.g. Hiace, Granvia, Dyna, Corolla, Carina, Camry, Crown, Celica
45380 bevel box used since 80's in vans e.g. Liteace, Townace, Toyoace, Masterace, Hiace, Granvia, Dyna
45390 output shaft used in e.g. Hiace, Granvia, Dyna
Bevel box and shaft were both in the assembly 45380-27011 used in late 90's Hiace
45209 input joint used since 80's in many Toyota and Lexus cars and vans e.g. Hiace, Granvia, Dyna, Corolla, Carina, Camry, Crown, Celica
45380 bevel box used since 80's in vans e.g. Liteace, Townace, Toyoace, Masterace, Hiace, Granvia, Dyna
45390 output shaft used in e.g. Hiace, Granvia, Dyna
Bevel box and shaft were both in the assembly 45380-27011 used in late 90's Hiace
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Great work, we don't know why you do it but it's really cool that you do!
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Thank you!
The purpose of this repair and modification is to fix and improve the tractor to be more reliable, practical and suitable for our needs, which is mostly snow removal in winter and light earth moving, grading and log pulling in summer. We used to have an old Valmet agricultural tractor, but that was too big, clumsy and primitive for our needs, so we sold it and bought this small tractor. After couple of years of use I had a pretty clear vision of what needs to be improved.
And then there is my passion to engineering and vehicles, but I believe that's in common with us in this great forum. 😎
The purpose of this repair and modification is to fix and improve the tractor to be more reliable, practical and suitable for our needs, which is mostly snow removal in winter and light earth moving, grading and log pulling in summer. We used to have an old Valmet agricultural tractor, but that was too big, clumsy and primitive for our needs, so we sold it and bought this small tractor. After couple of years of use I had a pretty clear vision of what needs to be improved.
And then there is my passion to engineering and vehicles, but I believe that's in common with us in this great forum. 😎
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That's what I do, modify them so they better fit my needs and make them a more all purpose piece of equipment.
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I've had some Christmas break on Horse repair. But I've done some experimental treatment to wheel bolts and those peculiar spherical spring washers.
First I brushed the bolts and washers on denatured alcohol to get grease away. Then let them on sodium hydroxide water solution (drain opener) for a night to remove the remining paint and grease. Then flushed the parts with warm water and soaked on 40% phosphoric acid to remove the rust and to get kind of a phosphate coating. And finally painted the parts with linseed oil mixed with very fine aluminum powder.
In theory linseed oil gets into the small cavities of corroded surface and prevents rust. And aluminum powder gives the surface cathodic anti-corrosion protection and nice looking surface. After some years I'll see how that works in real environment
![2486320]()
First I brushed the bolts and washers on denatured alcohol to get grease away. Then let them on sodium hydroxide water solution (drain opener) for a night to remove the remining paint and grease. Then flushed the parts with warm water and soaked on 40% phosphoric acid to remove the rust and to get kind of a phosphate coating. And finally painted the parts with linseed oil mixed with very fine aluminum powder.
In theory linseed oil gets into the small cavities of corroded surface and prevents rust. And aluminum powder gives the surface cathodic anti-corrosion protection and nice looking surface. After some years I'll see how that works in real environment
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We'll all have to wait a few years for you to announce the result.
I used to get things galvanized regularly. When some larger job was going to the plating shop, I could add things like your special washers with a loop of wire.
The plating wasn't even all that expensive.
For instance, I rebuilt this antique anchor windlass for my boat. Even the cast iron gears got galvanized [hard to tell due to the grease]. not the shafts though, because the gears have to slide freely.
I think the big wheel was powder coated, I don't remember.
![2486321]()
I used to get things galvanized regularly. When some larger job was going to the plating shop, I could add things like your special washers with a loop of wire.
The plating wasn't even all that expensive.
For instance, I rebuilt this antique anchor windlass for my boat. Even the cast iron gears got galvanized [hard to tell due to the grease]. not the shafts though, because the gears have to slide freely.
I think the big wheel was powder coated, I don't remember.
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154 Posts
What a nice winch! Hot galvanizing is indeed a good anti-corrosion treatment. Even better results in salt spray test is achived with zinc flake coating, which is actually the coating used in some OEM wheel bolts and nuts. Unfortunately as far as I know there is only one company making such coating in Finland, and they are more than fully occupied by industrial customers.
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The winch parts were electroplated as I recall; most work I had done at that time was hot dipped, which makes a superior coating but it's a bit messy, drips and things, uneven. Electro-plating is thinner, cheaper, and neater if things need to fit together later.
I bought the winch complete but rusted solid. It looked like it had hardly been used. Most of these 100 year old old deck winches are completely worn out and have teeth broken off the gears.
I added ball bearings and a hydraulic motor that I got at a flea market. Also zerk grease fittings all over.
The goal was a cheapo hydraulic anchor windlass for a 250kg anchor and 300Kg of chain [should it be hanging under the boat in 300 meters of water, even though this is an inland only vessel that will never see more than 10 meters of water].
The semi-authentic credentials are a free bonus.
After it was complete and installed on the deck, I connected the pipes and found out it actually works.
Total cost was around 5-600 euros; the appraiser who checked the boat for insurance told me it's worth 1500-2000.
In the Amsterdam area where I used to live, there was 1 [large] hot dip company, and several smaller electroplate ones. There is even an electro-plate firm here in southern rural Portugal I'm told, so there has to be more in Finland.
![2486356]()
I bought the winch complete but rusted solid. It looked like it had hardly been used. Most of these 100 year old old deck winches are completely worn out and have teeth broken off the gears.
I added ball bearings and a hydraulic motor that I got at a flea market. Also zerk grease fittings all over.
The goal was a cheapo hydraulic anchor windlass for a 250kg anchor and 300Kg of chain [should it be hanging under the boat in 300 meters of water, even though this is an inland only vessel that will never see more than 10 meters of water].
The semi-authentic credentials are a free bonus.
After it was complete and installed on the deck, I connected the pipes and found out it actually works.
Total cost was around 5-600 euros; the appraiser who checked the boat for insurance told me it's worth 1500-2000.
In the Amsterdam area where I used to live, there was 1 [large] hot dip company, and several smaller electroplate ones. There is even an electro-plate firm here in southern rural Portugal I'm told, so there has to be more in Finland.
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