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I just ran across this thread. looks like the one I designed a while back and never built it. Now I need one and have all the parts together to get building. The large tubeing is 2x3in 3/16 wall and the mounting plates are 1/4in to the frame ,like the plow blade set up. Not sure at this time what to use as a bucket.
The rams are 2in x12 and the other is 3 x8 for the lift. They came off my Cushman when I parted it out.

I'd like to put it on the 316 , but the 317 has duel spool and I have the power steering left from the Cushman, Its made by parker same as the JD steering units. The 136 has a much better front end axle set up amd the 317 looks kinda weak.
Would it be wise to go ahead and put the tranny cooler on that came from the Cushman ?

Why does it come up asterics when I type in (scr ape d) ?
 

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Just John Deere
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739 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I had my first loader on a 317 which worked good except for the lack of power steering. A transmission cooler would be a good idea for the 317 since the pump will need to work much harder with the loader.
 

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I did a google search and found the seller to be:
Contact George Liskey...;)
[email protected]

More PhotoBucket pics. @:
http://gs98.photobucket.com/groups/l241/DOZL6B57J4/?action=view&current=BufordBucket2.jpg&newest=1

Very nice FEL GotDeeres / thanks for sharing, an impressive loader design (HD engineering and compact to).

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Beaumont { :>)) www.petperfectexpress.com
Golden Rule - "he who has the gold, makes the rule"
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http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=135888 Amy recoving from life threatening surgery, Post #12
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=136600&page=3 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=136934
1992 JD 318 original paint w/484 hr. on P218g Onan & #49 snow blower / 1998 JD GT262 w/brand new Kawasaki OHV & 48" rebuilt deck
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=135838 Intro.
 

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Just John Deere
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739 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Doodlebug,

The reason I use the crosstube type cylinder is that they have a retracted length of 16 inches where the tie rod cylinders are 20 1/4 inches. My loader design NEEDs a short retracted length. I also can buy TWO of them for a little more than a single tie rod cylinder would cost.I sell loaders so it would be in my best interest to sell plans and train my competition.

GotDeeres
 

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Gotdeeres,
I like the videos showing the preformance of your loader design. What Ive always thought about the many front end mounted attachments like yours is that,. typicially, They put all the torque/twist on the quick tach mount.
Where as a half frame mount only has downward pressure on the tip of the frame. Can u elaborate on the torque/twist on such a short base mount?

kubotakid USA
 

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Just John Deere
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739 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
kubotakid USA,

I designed two different sub-frames for my mini-loaders. The JD 4X5 sub-frame sits on top of the tractor frame and is bolted to the sides with six 5/8 bolts. There is absolutely no way the top 3X6 angle iron can be twisted. The loader sub-frame actually strengthens the tractor. People who have bought the loader comment on how heavy duty it is built. The picture is my 455 with a mini-loader which has NEVER been off the tractor. I do not like a Quick Attach for any loader. I feel that it is not as safe as one that is bolted on.

455 SUb-frame1 144K.jpg

The loader for the JD 300 series GT's originally had the 3/8" side plates bolted to the 3/8" tractor frame. That is 3/4" of steel. My brother now builds the loaders and added a Quick Attach feature to install the loader, but four 5/8" bolts also secure it to the tractor frame. I do not have any problem with twisting of the loader sub-frame. My lifting arms are shorter which reduces the twisting.

GotDeeres
 

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Shop = My Therapy
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3,156 Posts
I'm confused. You say you build & sell them, but many people have asked for info, your website, a price and you don't respond to them. So do you or do you not sell them, and if so, how would someone get more info and a price?

Are they really not quick attach?
 

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kubotakid USA,

I designed two different sub-frames for my mini-loaders. The JD 4X5 sub-frame sits on top of the tractor frame and is bolted to the sides with six 5/8 bolts. There is absolutely no way the top 3X6 angle iron can be twisted. The loader sub-frame actually strengthens the tractor. People who have bought the loader comment on how heavy duty it is built. The picture is my 455 with a mini-loader which has NEVER been off the tractor. I do not like a Quick Attach for any loader. I feel that it is not as safe as one that is bolted on.

View attachment 223808

The loader for the JD 300 series GT's originally had the 3/8" side plates bolted to the 3/8" tractor frame. That is 3/4" of steel. My brother now builds the loaders and added a Quick Attach feature to install the loader, but four 5/8" bolts also secure it to the tractor frame. I do not have any problem with twisting of the loader sub-frame. My lifting arms are shorter which reduces the twisting.

GotDeeres
iam satisfied, That you are not going bust on the deere freme, And u dont need to worry about me second guessing u,...Iam only bringing out the obvious..

kubotakid USA
 

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Just John Deere
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739 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
kubotakid USA ,

I was also concerned when I designed the loader. It is over built and I have been testing it for over 5 years. I am confident in my design and I made a few improvments along the way.

455 Red Oak Log 65.jpg 455 Dirt Pile.jpg

GotDeeres
 

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Hi, I'm a previous member. My old email login died so I registered anew. I had a JD300 with a Johnson 10 some time ago. I sold it to get another car, and I'm still suffering separation anxiety. I'm beginning to search for a replacement system. My question is in regards to the sub frames of the H140 and the 318. Will a loader frame once on a 140 go onto a 318?
 
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