My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Found it on CL,drove 80 miles to look at it.Seller said it run good,but when I got there it wouldn't start.Long story short I drag it home for a few bucks,spend 150 to get it running and find that it smokes,knocks a little,and leaves a 4 inch puddle of oil on the garage floor when I park it and shut it down.

It does have good power and the Hydro is strong.This thing could pull a box car if it found the traction.

What's it cost to overhaul a K motor? If I end up with a Grand in this bare tractor,I think it would be wise to move it on and buy another good running tractor with some attachments.

What to do,what to do...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Rebuilding a Kohler K series single depends on which route you want to take. If you want to use genuine Kohler parts, the cost will be more than double than if you use aftermarket parts.
You can find genuine Kohler parts on Ebay for considerably less than if you went to a store. That's where I shop for parts. You can get pistons for 30 to 50 bucks and rods for 10 to 30 bucks . You can also machine your crank down to .010" and use a new .010" under rod. Aftermarket bearings will run 35-45 bucks for the pair. Gasket sets go for about 25 bucks. Do yourself a favor and use Kohler gaskets as I used the ol' cheapos on one rebuild and found that they all weeped a little as compared to genuine Kohler brand gaskets.
Machining the block should cost 30-50 bucks depending on where you go.
If you're a good shopper, you can cut down on the cost of parts and machining. Good luck with your project.:goodl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Cost depends on if you plan on doing the rebuild yourself or have someone do it for you. You can buy Kohler parts will cost you plenty. Or you can buy a rebuild kit from Stens, which will cost you about $125.00 for a master rebuild kit. that includes the piston, piston pin, rod, gaskets and bearing, seals, points, plug.

I buy these kits from a seller on ebay.

You might have to have the block bored for about $75.00, or the crank turned for about $50.00 depending who does it. I have mine done by Brian Miller. Plus there is the shipping cost. If you have to have this done, then you need to buy the correct kit with the correct piston and rod.

Now having someone do the job for you, can run from $500.00 to $700.00 easy. They will use Kohler parts if they are a dealer most likely,

You never said where the oil is coming from. Is it coming from the engine, transaxle, Eaton11 pump, or the filter, or the hydraulic valve, or the cylinder for lifting the mowing deck.

You might just have a bad axle seal, and it is leaking when setting still. those seals go for about $8.00 each, then can be changed while the transaxle is still in the tractor.

Joe













Found it on CL,drove 80 miles to look at it.Seller said it run good,but when I got there it wouldn't start.Long story short I drag it home for a few bucks,spend 150 to get it running and find that it smokes,knocks a little,and leaves a 4 inch puddle of oil on the garage floor when I park it and shut it down.

It does have good power and the Hydro is strong.This thing could pull a box car if it found the traction.

What's it cost to overhaul a K motor? If I end up with a Grand in this bare tractor,I think it would be wise to move it on and buy another good running tractor with some attachments.

What to do,what to do...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Worked on it some more today.Checked the hydro and didn't strike oil till it hit about 3 inches down.Amazed how well it worked being this low.Went to TSC and got a 2gal jug of hydro/tranny fluid and changed it.The old oil was dark and nasty,and a little sludge built up on the bottom plug.Boy,she's smooth now and no more whinning noise.I know where the fluid went.The control valve leaks for the lift cylinder.Thought about changing the filter but the dealer wants 90 some bucks for one.Guess I'll leave the old one on there for now.

I also got the foot control working nice now.Apparently there is supposed to be a spring on both sides of the hydro control arm.The rear one was missing.

Needs all 8 body rubbers.Are these obtainable?

Also,if anybody has a front blade or blower I'm lookin.Does the blower use the lift cylinder to raise it?

Another question,anybody use the lift cylinder for a rear sleeve hitch setup? Does it have enough oomph to lift a couple hundred pounds? If not,I can build an electric one easy enough.

I really like the old tractor.I think I'll go ahead and work it till it blows,then fix it.

locknut
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
The lift cylinder is used to lift a 3pt hitch on these tractors. So it might work for a sleeve hitch provided the seals are good in the cylinder and there is no blow-by.

You can convert the filter system over to a screw on oil filter. There is info in my Jac/ford group, link is below, if your not a member you will have to join. The info is in the groups database for FAQ

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Jacobsen_Ford_Garden_Tractors/



Joe












Worked on it some more today.Checked the hydro and didn't strike oil till it hit about 3 inches down.Amazed how well it worked being this low.Went to TSC and got a 2gal jug of hydro/tranny fluid and changed it.The old oil was dark and nasty,and a little sludge built up on the bottom plug.Boy,she's smooth now and no more whinning noise.I know where the fluid went.The control valve leaks for the lift cylinder.Thought about changing the filter but the dealer wants 90 some bucks for one.Guess I'll leave the old one on there for now.

I also got the foot control working nice now.Apparently there is supposed to be a spring on both sides of the hydro control arm.The rear one was missing.

Needs all 8 body rubbers.Are these obtainable?

Also,if anybody has a front blade or blower I'm lookin.Does the blower use the lift cylinder to raise it?

Another question,anybody use the lift cylinder for a rear sleeve hitch setup? Does it have enough oomph to lift a couple hundred pounds? If not,I can build an electric one easy enough.

I really like the old tractor.I think I'll go ahead and work it till it blows,then fix it.

locknut
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Locknut, the rubbers are available through McMaster-Carr. Look under vibration damping mounts. Six pages are listed but the ones you want are on page 1362. The 1/4" ones under the running board are part #9376K116. The 5/16 ones up under the seat area are part #9376K43. Price: $1.66 & $1.87 each, respectively.
When ordering, be sure to specify neoprene or natural rubber. I just ordered a slew of them for my fleet. Considerably cheaper than what New Holland wanted and now they are unavailable through them.
Good luck with the ol' girl. I ,too, love these tractors as I have a fleet of 5 of them. 2 get used, 2 waiting for restoration and 1 in the final stages of restoration. If you have any questions, feel free to fire away.
By the way: :wwp:.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Looks like those will work perfectly,and cheap!

I like this old tractor so well I'm going to get another one tomorrow.A 145 closed side with a deck that's supposed to be in nice condition.Is there any differences between the two.Will attachments interchange?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
The frames are tube type frames and most if not all attachments will interchange between the open side and side panel tractors. There are minor differences between the tractors but the way in which the attachments install are the same.
Good luck with your next tractor and don't forget,:wwp:

Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
And pictures you shall have; :bannana:

Wonder what the deal is with the grill bent back and the metal ripped right next to the muffler?

Also have a problem with the steering;Doesn't want to turn to the right very far,but left is ok.Seems good when the front end is off the ground,but down on the ground is the problem.
 

Attachments

·
The Gate Keeper
Joined
·
1,181 Posts
That muffler doesn't look original and was probably something made up by the previous owner. On my old LGT165 the exhaust would exit out the front holes in the grill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Locknut, I agree with AnotherHickey. The grilles usually have soot markings on them indicating that the exhaust exits through the mesh of the grille. Kind of screwed up design if you ask me. Looks like someone jury rigged another muffler in there at the expense of hacking up the grille. Mufflers and grilles do come up on E-bay from time to time in case you want to fix it.
The open side tractor looks like she's in good shape. None of mine were in that kind of condition when I got them. The one's I get are usually worse off than that. It's rewarding though to bring them back to nice looking working machines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I thought that was the case on the muffler.I got to fix the steering.any parts still available?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Locknut, are you familiar with E-bay? There's a guy on there named, I believe it's Guy,(no pun intended), who rebuilds the Ross type steering columns that the Fords and Jakes use.He's a retired machinist, and if I'm not mistaken, does this on the side. If you're a member on E-bay, you should be able to contact him on parts availability or he can rebuild your old one. Price: About $150.00. E-bay also has used ones that pop up from time to time but they may be on the verge of breaking as well.
Here's Guy's E-bay seller name: gll11dj.
You will have to go into E-bay and look under sellers and type in his seller name to get a hold of him.
He does mostly Cub Cadet stuff but Cubs use the same Ross steering box so some parts may interchange.
He also sells upgrades to make the steering easier.Thrust needle bearings and hardware to make it seem like power steering. I don't know of any other option besides used stuff.
Joe's Outdoor Power on E-bay also has used columns from time to time but be prepared for an all-out bidding war as these are hot items.I have bought from him on numerous occasions for other parts and found his descriptions to be accurate. If he says it needs work, he means it. If he says it has no play, I believe him. He stands by his agreements. If you're not satisfied with the description or the part he will always work with you to make it right.
Anyway, I hope this was helpful. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me.:goodl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info on the steering box.I shortened the the link that runs down to the pitman arm and that helped some.I think the problem is all the moving parts up front are worn,including where the axle mounts to the frame in the center of the tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
What I did on my LGT tractor to eliminate the slop in the mounting pin is this.

I removed the pin, which should be 1/2 inch diameter. I bored out the mount to 5/8 inch diameter. did the same to the front axle. I removed the lock bolt in the front axle, drilled and tapped for a Zerk fitting. I then used a 5/8 inch bolt for the pin. By doing this, it allows the bolt to remain still and not wear out the holes in the mount. The axle then pivots on the bolt and the grease keeps it from wearing out as fast.

Works great and removed 99% of the slop in the mounting pivot

Joe








Thanks for the info on the steering box.I shortened the the link that runs down to the pitman arm and that helped some.I think the problem is all the moving parts up front are worn,including where the axle mounts to the frame in the center of the tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
What I did on my LGT tractor to eliminate the slop in the mounting pin is this.

I removed the pin, which should be 1/2 inch diameter. I bored out the mount to 5/8 inch diameter. did the same to the front axle. I removed the lock bolt in the front axle, drilled and tapped for a Zerk fitting. I then used a 5/8 inch bolt for the pin. By doing this, it allows the bolt to remain still and not wear out the holes in the mount. The axle then pivots on the bolt and the grease keeps it from wearing out as fast.

Works great and removed 99% of the slop in the mounting pivot

Joe
That sounds like a good way to fix that problem.

I pulled the spindle on the left side and the hole is wallowed out some.Is there a fix for this,or replacement with a new one the only cure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Worse comes to worse, bore the axle out and press a bushing into it. Just make sure you have a passage for grease to get to the spindle from the Zerk fitting.

Joe












That sounds like a good way to fix that problem.

I pulled the spindle on the left side and the hole is wallowed out some.Is there a fix for this,or replacement with a new one the only cure.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top