LGT 125 easy steering repair turned NIGHTMARE!

After removing the fender pan and dash assy, the bolts should have been exposed to remove the whole steering column. You will have to remove the bolts that hold the bearing to the side of the battery tower and remove the bearing to facilitate removing and installing the column. I don't see how you can do it any other way. By the way, the only way to remove the driveshaft is to unbolt the engine from the pan to get the clearance to remove the shaft. It has centering bushings on each end that are a light press fit. Undoing the bolts won't allow you to remove the shaft.The distance between the engine and trans must be opened up about 3/4" to expose the bushing and get the shaft out. The only way to accoplish that is to unbolt the engine and move it. I hope this helps.:goodl:

There is one other way. Undo the 4 screws that hold the air screen to the flywheel. Move the screen to expose the square headed set screw that retains the coupling to the crank. Loosen the screw.If you're lucky, the coupling is not seized and will slide away from the driveshaft to allow the room you need to get the shaft out. Don't be overly enthusiastic though, as most I've seen are stuck quite well.:goodl:

UPDATE: The roll pin isn't comming out.... That is because it is sooo stuck that the roll pin punch got stuck AND bent into the roll pin and then snapped when I was trying to remove it! Also, none of my drillbits can even put a dent in the roll pin, they just glow red, make god awful screeching noises, and dull down. Any ideas???? I am ready to call it quits on this nightmare of a tractor!
thanks,
-Jordan

I thought you had already removed the steering arm before welding the shaft.
Question. Exactly what do you have removed from the tractor so I can help shed light on your situation? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you have removed and what is not. All is not lost. Once these problems are ironed out, you'll see that they are quite good as far as tractors go.

The cross shaft is the weak link in the Ross steering boxes. Seems like when they machined the cross shaft, they put a straight cot at the step of the shaft, causing a weak spot. When I made my cross shaft I put a bevel cut to relieve some of the stress on that point.

Removing the steering column is a nightmare on these LGT tractors. Below are some if not most of the steps that need to be done.



1: remove seat

2: remove brake and forward and reverse pedals

3: Remove steering wheel

4: remove fender pan

5: remove dash assembly

6: remove bolts out of the dash tower so it can be lifted

7: disconnect the steering drag link on the side of the tractor

8: disconnect the front drive shaft from engine so it moves to the
side

9: knock the pin/bolt out of the drag link on the side of the tractor
where it hooks the the cross shaft of the steering box

10: remove the bearing from the cross shaft, should be two small set
screws that hold it to the cross shaft and two bolts that hold it on
the side of the tractor.

11: remove the bolts that hold the steering box in place, some on the
dash tower near the shifter and some under the dash

12: try sliding the steering box to the side and downward past the
drive shaft, you have to make sure the cross shaft clears the hole in
the side of the tractor, and clears the drive shaft. You might have
to remove the drive shaft completely.


At least this is how mine had to come out and what had to be done


Hope this helps



Joe

*Bump!* Well, the Ford is sitting in a million pieces under a tarp and I have been searching high and low for that dang steering arm/box/column. I have decided to go the hard route and retrofit a John Deere (yes I know... JD...) power steering system to the Ford so I never have to deal with the pin shearing, snapping, stripping ect. When I get everything needed I will surely start a new thread on the process and answer any questions about the conversion
-Jordan

This is a problem on many different tractors using these Ross steering columns. Many of us including myself have broken the steering wheel when trying to remove them.

Plenty of PB-Blaster and patients is the key, along with using a steering wheel puller. Over in my group I have photos of different types of pullers that members have made.

The tapping the nut while it is loose is one method, while your sitting in the seat and supporting the steering wheel with your legs while tapping the nut that holds the steering wheel on.

I myself like the steering wheel puller.

Joe

kazul said:

I am in the process of fixing this same problem. The cross shaft on my LGT 146 has sheared in half as well.

How does the steering wheel come off? I removed the nut from the top of the column, but cant figure out how to get the steering wheel off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

Jordan

When adding the power steering. Be very careful with the stroke of the cylinder you use. I made the mistake the first time and did not check for the correct stroke. The cylinder stroke was to long and it broke the cast iron axle in half.

I just did a survey in my group on this topic of the stroke of the drag link, most said it was 5 inches

Joe

CubCadet107 said:

*Bump!* Well, the Ford is sitting in a million pieces under a tarp and I have been searching high and low for that dang steering arm/box/column. I have decided to go the hard route and retrofit a John Deere (yes I know... JD...) power steering system to the Ford so I never have to deal with the pin shearing, snapping, stripping ect. When I get everything needed I will surely start a new thread on the process and answer any questions about the conversion
-Jordan

Click to expand...