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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Its been a long time since Ive been on the forum.
I've moticed the oild seal is gone on the left side of my 4X4 axle.

Has anyone taken these apart to replace seals?? Any advice is appreciated.:praying:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hello, I at the end of my rope here. All the videos online of guys changing thier axle seals make it look like the steering knuckle just "falls off" once they remove the snap ring retaining clip. I have taken off the clip and no matter how hard I try the knuckle will not drop. Is there something different in the legacy axle that is not shown in the parts diagram.

Im sure someone on here must have changed those steering seals before.

I dont want to bang on the knuckle any harder, and i've tried using a ball joint tool, no luck
 

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Hey man, just paraphrasing our PMs to keep the convo going.

I'm looking at the diagram and don't see anything special that would keep it together. I will say though, that I am restoring a 1951 Farmall Cub and ****, if some parts just don't want to come apart. I've had to use 30-ton press, sledge hammers, heat, air chisel/hammer left in place for 5+ minutes, and a 7-ft cheater bar to get some things apart that otherwise should pop apart easily.

On more than one occasion I've gotten so angry that I said "f it, I don't care if the cast iron housing breaks, I'm getting this part out." and then proceed to absolutely bash the bejesus out of it. Then it comes apart with no damage, and all is well.
 

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randy...you are another Long Islander?..with a Legacy?..I though that I had the only one on LI (which I have since sold)
 

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randy...you are another Long Islander?..with a Legacy?..I though that I had the only one on LI (which I have since sold)
Yessir, I’m up in eatons neck. I got the legacy because my grandfather had an a/c 912h and I tend to be brand loyal. But yeah, I don’t think I’ve seen any simplicitys out around town let alone a legacy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sooo, I wish i was good at making videos, as I woulda posted my repair. You see all these guys making videos about changing the axle seals on their kubotas, and the y get the job done in 20 minutes, as all the parts just "fall apart". Honestly I dont think this is the real world.

I talked to an ol' timer GM mechanic, and he said that when things rust, they swell. making them harder to get apart. He said "patience and a hardwood dowel inside a piece of pipe"

So after about 1 hour of going around the edge of the casting, over and over, it finally started to move. There is a little hole in the housing, and i let go half a can of ether on the inside shaft, to freeze it, and cause it to shrink, then kept pound, and the knuckle started to move. put in a small pry bar, and off she came. The seal was so badly rusted, the only way to get it out of the knuckle was brute force and ignorance.

The spindle was covered in rust as well. I had to file the carp out of it , then progressive Emory clothe applications, til I was back to bright metal.

Of course, covered everything with a dab of "never seize", then started the re-assembly. Placed the seal on the spindle first, gently put in place with a piece of exhaust pipe. Used a jack to hold the knuckle up on the spindle til it started to seat itself, then dead blow hammer, and used the weight of the tractor to push in the knuckle while tapping all around. Finaly a piece of hard wood on top of the knuckle, and drove that thing home.

Repeat on the other side. about 8 hours in total. I cant believe these seals got this bad with only 1000 hours, but I work that tractor hard.

This work is all part of the "tractor life extension" I'm doing. Complete overhaul, all new fluids, filters, paint, etc. I even added grease fittings to the tie rod ends (see below),

Thanks for everyones input.
2497765

new seal
20210406_173737[1].jpg

old seal



20210406_173629[1].jpg


new grease fittings
 

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Glad to hear you got it done.

I hate to say it, but I’ve done these deals twice on one Kubota (one then the other a year later, and once on a Massey SCUT. All times, yeah, they pretty much did just “fall apart” when disassembling. Now I have a different Kubota that I need to do seals on sooner or later.

All 3 machines were under 600 hours when the seals began to leak. My current Kubota has leaked off and on for almost 3 years I’ve had it, purchasing it at like 550 hours. Has just under 1,000 on it now and it’s been getting much worse over the last month since the weather started changing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
steddy
Glad to hear you got it done.

I hate to say it, but I’ve done these deals twice on one Kubota (one then the other a year later, and once on a Massey SCUT. All times, yeah, they pretty much did just “fall apart” when disassembling. Now I have a different Kubota that I need to do seals on sooner or later.

All 3 machines were under 600 hours when the seals began to leak. My current Kubota has leaked off and on for almost 3 years I’ve had it, purchasing it at like 550 hours. Has just under 1,000 on it now and it’s been getting much worse over the last month since the weather started changing.
Ted,
I guess i waited too long to change mine, but it took me 8 hours total to do both sides. I cant understand why they would put the metallic side of the seal facing out, instead of inward facing the bearing.
Seems backwards.

Jeff
 

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I’ve seen and heard about 2 schools of thought on which way grease seals get installed. Do you orient them to keep grease in or keep water out? I’ve even heard of some instances where manufacturers put in two of them back to back for best of both worlds. Fun topic for debate.
 
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