My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Was driving home and just down the road from my house and there was a familiar color and shaped walk behind marked free.. So I threw it in my truck and continued home..

What I have is a 7072 " Special " with a slightly rusted deck ( I can fix ).. Turns over, has compression. fuel smells freshish although it is empty and the coil was unplugged.. I have not mixed up some gas for it to test as I had other things but I think it will run.. Yet someone discarded it so possibly not. If it can be made to run I'll invest a little as I actually NEED a working walk behind
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
Those are good little stamped steel deck F series mowers, the power to weight ratio is outstanding. I doubt you will find a mower anywhere that will beat it in that category. Unfortunately you do have to deal with the rust much more so than the aluminum deck models. I kinda like the sound of those steel deck F series to, sounds a little "Meaner", as my father used to say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have to guess that it's not getting gas. I put some mix in it and pushed the primer but it still sounds empty. Got to go through the ignition and carb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok so it's not getting gas, but mix down the throat it runs.. It's blowing smoke directly under the engine though? not under the mower like I think it should.

In any case with life in it I'll put a little money into it.. For sure it's not getting any gas and this carburator does not look right, or at least like a metal Walboro that I would expect to see ( it is correct per the IPL ). 4 screws hold the bowl on.. The float is listed as discontinued..

Is there a way to put a regular walboro on it? or a $40 Duraforce carb which looks just like what I have except it has a throttle beyond the air vane
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
[QUOTE="matt167, post: 12442025, member: 64659"

Is there a way to put a regular walboro on it? or a $40 Duraforce carb which looks just like what I have except it has a throttle beyond the air vane
[/QUOTE]
The Walbro swaps are usually performed on the later post 1994 models with the crankcase pulse holes. As far as the Duraforce carb swap goes, I don't think those are interchangeable with the old OMC carbs. In my opinion it's probably cheaper and easier just sticking with the original carb in this case. At least the old OMC plastic carbs are adjustable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If it's blowing smoke above the deck, does that mean it might need seals?

I figure I'll clean the carb up and try it
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
If it's blowing smoke above the deck, does that mean it might need seals?

I figure I'll clean the carb up and try it
That sounds more like the exhaust gasket between the engine and muffler plate is leaking. If the lower seal is leaking to any extent the engine won't run and if it does it will sling oil out, not exhaust.
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
Yes, if you have oil on top of deck it will more than likely need a new lower seal as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
It runs quite well. I spent a couple mins and cleaned the carb. It won't kill though. I have to flood it with primer

How hard is lower seal replacement?
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
It runs quite well. I spent a couple mins and cleaned the carb. It won't kill though. I have to flood it with primer

How hard is lower seal replacement?
That all depends on a couple of factors. The first and foremost depends on the blade adapter, if it is frozen and has to be cut off then I would add a couple of hours to the job. If the mower has been maintained well, stored indoors and anti-seize applied when the adapter has been pulled off for port cleaning then it's a 30 min job (easy, especially with the special seal removal tool). The other factor is whether Self-propel or not, and yours is a pusher so not a factor, but just throwing this out there for the guys that do. If you have self-propel pulley to pull off you can add another 2 hours if you have to cut that off to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
That all depends on a couple of factors. The first and foremost depends on the blade adapter, if it is frozen and has to cut off then I would add a couple of hours to the job. If the mower has been maintained well, stored indoors and anti-seize applied when the adapter has been pulled off for port cleaning then it's a 30 min job (easy, especially with the special seal removal tool).
Well it kind of has the stored in the weeds look.. But we will see. It seems to run great
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
Well it kind of has the stored in the weeds look.. But we will see. It seems to run great
Yeah I was afraid of that, you can probably count on replacing the blade adapter because from my experience when they are neglected and stored outside those dudes will not come off. A Dremel is your friend, it comes off fairly quickly with 2 cuts 180 degrees apart leaving enough material to keep the cut off wheel safely away from crank, then it's just a matter of splitting it off with a cold chisel and hammer. This is done after the puller has pulled the plate off the collar. They are tack welded and usually break off fairly easily with a puller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I stuffed a sponge in the air filter housing, which fit perfectly. Fired it up and cut my back lawn. Runs decent, for sure I think the ports are clogged and it probably needs the seals. But I might drop it at an old shop who was a lawnboy dealer for a good servicing. Since I'm starting at $0 there is some wiggle room for spending
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well, I cut my ditch with it. Pretty heavy grass, then it acted it was running out of gas and shut down.. I can prime it started but I pretty much know the crank seal is smoked.. It will fire back up after it cools
 

·
Turf consultant
Joined
·
133 Posts
That all depends on a couple of factors. The first and foremost depends on the blade adapter, if it is frozen and has to be cut off then I would add a couple of hours to the job.
I've had great luck using a puller set below. The 1/4" bolts fit through the adapter. Use some washers on other side and pull, giving the occasional wack with a hammer. If you think it's really bad hit around the crank with some 50% acetone - 50% auto trans fluid beforehand.

I found this works better than a 2 jaw puller as the jaw puller tends to bend the adapter.

2459438
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
4,943 Posts
I've had great luck using a puller set below. The 1/4" bolts fit through the adapter. Use some washers on other side and pull, giving the occasional wack with a hammer. If you think it's really bad hit around the crank with some 50% acetone - 50% auto trans fluid beforehand.

I found this works better than a 2 jaw puller as the jaw puller tends to bend the adapter.

View attachment 2459438
Thanks for the tip on the puller. I have been using a pitman arm puller, which wraps around the back side of the plate pretty good and is fairly effective at pull them off in good condition. I also use a hammer and a piece of brass on the edge to strike it after applying pressure with the puller. If the anti-seize has been used on the collar then a hammer is not even needed. Even with the best of tools, torch heat and penetrating fluid there are the occasional ones that just don’t cooperate though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I dropped it off at a repair place where my old favorite repair man works now. He's gotten some pretty obscure things running for me. This should be easy for him
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top