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Discussion Starter #1
So technically I guess it's not a walk-behind, but I will post here until I am told not to. I got my tractor done as far as I can take it. Still waiting on decals. I decided to tear into the motor on the 4301, the mower deck half of the loafer. The motor was stuck. My worst fear was that it had been straight gassed, but it hasn't. It's kind of strange. I took the fly wheel off, removed the key, and the governor assembly was stuck to the shaft. It's as if someone sprayed it with 3M adhesive spray, and let it sit. Everything is really gummed up. I had to soak with gas for a bit, just to get it apart. I got the mag plate off, and everything looked ok. It is a D-400 motor.
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I took the jug bolts out, and that's as far as it wanted to go. The bearing on the crank looked good, but the piston was stuck in the cylinder.
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Long story short, I eventually got it out. (won't say how) but the piston and cylinder looked as though someone sprayed adhesive in there also. Pretty bad. I will say that I have suffered my first major
casualty. I tried holding the crankcase and twisting the cylinder. Snapped the rod in half. That can't be good. This is a 3 ring piston. Which brings me to my first of many questions on this build. Are all 3 rings on this piston the same ring? I thought 400 series was 2 ring. According to the parts diagram, 3 ring is correct. The rings are hopelessly stuck in the piston. I'm not even gonna try.
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I'm not sure how well you can see into the cylinder, but I figured it was toast. I honed the cylinder, and it actually turned out better than I expected.
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There are some scratches, but I figure if I hone it too much, I will end up with piston slap. The exhaust ports were no better. The center one was completely closed off, the other 2, not much better.
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This motor has only sleeve bearing, but appear to be in good shape with no slop. I have another d-400 engine out in storage, I will have to get it back here and see exactly what it is. I am not going very far on this build this year, as the weather simply won't allow it, but maybe I can get through the motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have been researching parts for the D 400, and the D 450. I wanted to check what I needed, against what I had on hand. The exhaust gaskets are a 2 piece configuration. Rubber gasket with a steel sleeve. Nothing unusual about that. The steel sleeves are part # 602617, which is what I have on hand, and used on everything so far. The rubber gasket is part # 602644. All the ones I have on hand are 602624. Does anyone know what the difference might be? Thanks Greg
 

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I could only find one listing on eBay for the 602644. The picture looks exactly like the 604624. eReplacement parts does show the 602644 but as discontinued. The D-433 engine uses the 604624 along with the the 602717 sleeve. Same sleeve used on the D-400. I would guess the old one was a cork type material and they transitioned to the newer style. Bill
 

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hello Greg
the new style exhaust rubber gasket replaces the old style cork gasket using the metal sleeve
hope this helps you had do this for a 1963 7252 using the new style exhaust rubber gasket like
I have always said willing to help with early lawn-boy engines and repair have a great day your
lawn-boy friend Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I will use what I have on hand,
 

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Scott. Thanks for confirming what I remembered about the cork gasket. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another question please. I know this has been covered before, but I wanted to check. On the mag plate it say, "Point Gap .016." The online engine specification chart say .020 for D400 series. Your thoughts please.
 

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I can not find the info in print but I do remember reading about the different point gaps based on which mag plate. Maybe oldlawnboy or someone can enlighten us. Bill
 

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good morning Greg
to help with the points does the flywheel have part number 678103 are set at .016 but you can use the
other flywheel part number 678355 that will set the points at .020 that will also work as well I used this
flywheel and works well have that same flywheel on my 1963 5231 mowers runs great with points set
at .020 if you need more help please ask have a great day Scott
 

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Thanks for that info Scott. I knew I had seen that somewhere. Guess it was on the flywheel. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Had to leave for a while. Grand daughter emergency. (when your 11, EVERYTHING is an emergency!) My flywheel is 678103. The mag plate says .016, The attached chart says .020. I went with a loose .016. Thanks Scott.
Engine Specifications
 

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to share with you guys on the flywheel part number look on the top between the cooling fins
near the magnet side of flywheel should say 678103 or 678355 and newer D-400 series flywheel
the part number 679900 that uses the four screws for the flywheel screen and that one is also .020
point setting hope this helps out have a great day all forum members your lawn-boy friend Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have the D 450 back on the 9212. (the sulky portion of the loafer) I won't bore you with a lot of pics, only to say that it was stuck, but not near as bad as the D 400.The good news is, it wasn't str8 gassed, so it was salvageable. My small engine guy actually had a set of NOS rings for a 3 ring piston. I am assuming since this is a 3 ring piston, the fuel mixture is 16 /1. Is this correct? That would explain the VERY excessive build up of carbon.
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The coil was cracked and in pieces. Rather than try to peel away the loose bits, I left them alone, and epoxied it all back together again. I learned my lesson on the last one. It has 95 psi compression, I am hoping that improves. It has good spark through my spark tester, but I have learned not to rely on that too much.
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I do have the correct red pull starter, but stuck this old white one on for now. According to ebay, those things are kind-a dear. For the last hour and a half, I have been trying to diagnose a transmission shifting problem. (this is where I let my stupid out, AGAIN!) I could not figure out why it would not shift into reverse .Well.... I don't think it HAS reverse. I've been fixing something that aint broke. I have been trying to research it, but so far I can't find anything. If I am wrong on this, someone please correct me. I would also like to find an owners/service manual if possible.
I am not going to tear it down any further this year. (I don't think) I haven't got a place to paint it. With cold weather coming, my wife wants her van back in the garage. Go figure.:cautious: If I tear it down now, clean it up, and paint it next year, I won't remember how it goes back together. I very nearly remedied that problem by buying another Loafer through an auction, but that didn't pan out. Tomorrow I will install the shroud and tank, and see if it fires. I am running out of poop today.😔
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hard to believe I know, but I may be wrong again. I just watched a video of a kid trying to plow snow with a Loafer. He had reverse.
 

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I watched that video of the kid plowing. Looks like he had to pull the lever back a long way to shift the engine over for reverse. You will get it figured out. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I have been trying to find some info on this loafer. There isn't much out there. That I can find anyway. I had to take the motor back off. I was sitting here last night, hoping Motion Industries would call today (Wednesday) and tell me the seals I ordered were in. SEAL ! CRAP !. I don't have a seal in the bottom of the crankcase. It's a larger seal than is typically used, and I didn't have one. So now I am waiting on a seal. Since the motor was off, I decided to do some more power washing, and cleaning . I looked over the shifting mechanism. After some cleaning, polishing some parts, a new bushing in the linkage, (it was gone), and a dab of grease here and there, it shifts much better. Even into reverse. I took the drain plug out of the transmission to replace whatever oil was in there. There wasn't any. Not a drop! Now I am wondering what oil to put in it. I had a Snapper RER years ago with the same type of drive mechanism. I looked on You-Tube, and in the video I watched, the guy used 90W gear oil in his Snapper, so that's what I will put in it, unless someone here advises something else. I have looked everywhere I know of for new decals. So far, no luck. That is one long decal that wraps around the shroud. The same thing is on the 4301. In the 4th. photo you can see more detail on the decal. The printing is stamped into the shroud. Any help at all with this unit would be geatly appreciated. Thanks Greg
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The motor is back on the 9212, again. Well, most of it. If anyone needs to know how to mount one of these things, I can tell you. I can also tell you about 6 ways how NOT to do it.:rolleyes:
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Forgot the pic. Obviously a lot more cleaning to be done on it yet, but I' anxious to go for a ride.:)
 
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Finally got back to the Loafer. Motor is complete, but it's giving me fits. The motor runs (poorly) for a bit, backfires and dies. I have rechecked the point gap, and rechecked the coil gap. Set the points at .016, the coil at .010. I am not sure what else to do at this point. I would like to get some tips, before I do some real damage. Also, what is a good starting point for the carb setting on this mower? Thanks Greg
PS There seems to be an excessive amount of smoke. 16:1 ?
 
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