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MTF Member Since Day 1
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What is your choice for a lawn roller, Poly or Steel? I live in the northwest in a rocky environment that is leading me more towards a poly roller, I owned a steel roller years ago and was always under the impression that the steel roller did a better job.

Thanks,
ToppDogg
 

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I use a metal roller.I have never used a polly type.But it looks like they would give a little on a bump your trying to roll out?Maybe im wrong but sure looks like it would have some give where metal does not give any?
 

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m-ODD-r8r
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I had one made out of the tank from a gas-fired water heater. Filled with water, & pipe plugs to close the tank. A piece of galvanized pipe served as the hub & angle iron 'arms' to pull it with. The tank rotted out after a couple of years, but there's always another sittin' by the curb. :D
 

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Anything With Wheels
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Like some of the others, my only experiences have been with steel rollers. I imagine the poly would have the edge on longevity as far as never rusting out.
 

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If you can find two hot water heaters that are the same brand and size, cut the done (end) off one and weld it to the other. Thats what I did........The local junk yard here gets reject new tanks from a local water heater manufacturer, and I bought two that were the same, cut the end off one and welded it to the other, so it has rounded edges and does not dig in when turning. I used a simple steel shaft that runs in a piece of square steel tube for the bearing........no big need to go all out with ball bearing or bushings, as it does not turn fast, and it will take a heap of wear before it ever needs replacing. I just needed a roller and made it quick and dirty.....and it works great. It could use a bit more weight, so I need to add a box or rack on the top so I can add some weights to it yet........

I just don't think a poly roller would work all that well. Too much give, in the drum unless you filled it with concrete, then its prone to cracking.........nope give me a steel roller any day.

One thing thats good to add is a scraper.....I clamped a piece of sheet metal on mine for now, as it used to build up with clods of clay etc, now it stayes pretty well scraped off.
 

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Old Stonebreaker
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I sure hope you fellas welding those old water heaters together are wearing respirators. That zinc will make you smell and taste funny things for a couple of days not to mention a raging headache.
Been there,done that, Thanks but no thanks,
Mike A
 

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I don't know if I would fill it with motor oil just incase you wound up with a leak. I can imagine the mess that would create. I could see adding some used motor oil after filling it with some sand. No rust on the inside. slkpk
 

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mla2ofus said:
I sure hope you fellas welding those old water heaters together are wearing respirators. That zinc will make you smell and taste funny things for a couple of days not to mention a raging headache.
Been there,done that, Thanks but no thanks,
Mike A
I have not seen a water heater tank that was galvanized in over 30 or more years...All that I have ever seen and use are usually glass lined or porcelain lined or bare steel.......no galvanize anywhere.
 

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I first bought a poly because the round edges looked good, but it was so poorly made (out of round by at least an inch... when the scraper/cleaner bar made contact on the high part, the rest of the drum couldn't be cleaned) and the plastic "weld" around the plug fitting leaked...took it back to Sears within 2 days and got a steel...Steel is the one...the drum's within a 1/8" of round.

Don't leave the water in it. I've thought old oil would make the perfect weight, but haven't as yet.
 

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Anything With Wheels
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modre said:
Don't leave the water in it. I've thought old oil would make the perfect weight, but haven't as yet.
Drain oil....I think that's what jbetts put in his.
 

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maxtor
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dont leave water in it in the winter time. it will split it wide open. sand is the best bet or if you really want some weight put dry cement right out of the bag or mix concrete and pour it in there but dont ever think about gettin it out. would be expensive though. it is dense and carries a lot of weight for the cubic foot. you would have a "mell of a hess" if the oil ever started leaking.
 

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I use a poly roller, I like the rounded edges and I use it on my 600 foot driveway a couple of times a year also. I have used steel in the past but found the driveway does a number on them, also living on the Atlantic Ocean rust is a major issue so the more items I can get made out of poly the less maintenance.

Andy
 

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I have had a 36" poly, but I dont like it because if I leave it sit with water too long, it goes out of round on me. I hate having to fill it up everytime I want to use it.
Currently making a metal out of old 100# lp tank (and yes, I purged and filled with water to remove ALL old gas). Plan to fill it with sand for about 390# in a 44" roller. Mostly use it to repair mole damage. I use the roller to eliminate prior damage and a pitch fork to prevent future damage!
 

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Speaking of rollers,,,, I'm not sure how much weight my ST160 can handle. Any ideas please let me know.
Brian
 

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I made my roller useing 24" dia by 48" long piece of drill stem tubing. Cut the end plates, welded them on with 1' stub shafts welded on center, angle iron frame, and greaseable ballbearing pillar blocks from the frame to the stub axles. Used a boat plug in the water fill opening. In ten years I haven't had a nickels worth of trouble out of it, even loaning it out several times. Guessing the weight at around 900 lbs with it filled.
 

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Speaking of rollers,,,, I'm not sure how much weight my ST160 can handle. Any ideas please let me know.
Brian
You can handle a 600 lb one fine and if your on level ground you should be able to pull a 900lb one. I had a 36" agri fab first, then sold it and got the 48" model from agri fab, still have it, and got a custom roller built.

This is 36" tall by 66" wide, it was a 500 gal propane tank, cut the ends off and installed the stubs and tounge. She weighs 3500lbs full!!



Heres the big roller next to the 48" agri fab.



Here she is ready to roll



Rolling in the spring right after the frost is gone is the best time. It will take the frost bumps and the mole runs out (until they make more) but wont push hills down. I have people ask if it will do that and I say no.:fing20:

Then you will have those that say no too rolling, it compacts and is bad for the lawn, well there is truth to that, however, I custom mow around 100 acres on a week to week basis, and I can see no difference to rolled yards to unrolled yards. Almost all that I mow I roll.
 

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USMC
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You can handle a 600 lb one fine and if your on level ground you should be able to pull a 900lb one. I had a 36" agri fab first, then sold it and got the 48" model from agri fab, still have it, and got a custom roller built.

This is 36" tall by 66" wide, it was a 500 gal propane tank, cut the ends off and installed the stubs and tounge. She weighs 3500lbs full!!



Heres the big roller next to the 48" agri fab.



Here she is ready to roll



Rolling in the spring right after the frost is gone is the best time. It will take the frost bumps and the mole runs out (until they make more) but wont push hills down. I have people ask if it will do that and I say no.:fing20:

Then you will have those that say no too rolling, it compacts and is bad for the lawn, well there is truth to that, however, I custom mow around 100 acres on a week to week basis, and I can see no difference to rolled yards to unrolled yards. Almost all that I mow I roll.
Great info as I've always wondered if there was any difference in rolled to non rolled yards. slkpk
 

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Tech Nerd Tractor Convert
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I use a poly roller, I like the rounded edges and I use it on my 600 foot driveway a couple of times a year also...

Andy
I'm guessing that's a gravel driveway? For some reason, asphalt popped into my head first, and I couldn't imagine how that could be rolled.

Maybe that's the problem -- I have asphalt in my head.:duh:
 
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