Lawn Ranger woes...

Hey, totally digging the VW pickup in your avatar.

The only time I have ever dealt with an engine running insanely hot was with an ancient Lowes rear-engine mower that we wore the valve guides out of. It was to a point where there wasn't anything we could do with it except replace the engine or the tractor altogether. So I agree, you may be experiencing a valve issue.

Regarding the excess carbon buildup (and the heat), it sounds like it may be running a bit (or rich, someone please correct me if I am wrong -- I can't remember) lean and may need a carb adjustment/rebuild.

Good luck! raying:

the running hot do what Ge-off said it does sound like its running rich now the smoke coming out of the little tube thats the breather tube connected to the valve cover I belive. That means two or three things one rings letting blow by low on oil or low vacum meaning she needs a rebuild
any way I wpould pull the head and clean the carbon off cant hurt
Be sure to make sure the oil is not over filled

Teddy da Bear said:

Last time I heard.......you said it was running smoooooooth.....hmm?
I recall my first suggestion was to pull the head and look at the valves.

Click to expand...

Yes, and other knowledgeable people said to do the other first, so I'm trying those BEFORE I pull the head. That's reasonable, correct??

And it IS running smooth, just blowing oil out the breather tube etc.

oldandred said:

the running hot do what Ge-off said it does sound like its running rich now the smoke coming out of the little tube thats the breather tube connected to the valve cover I belive. That means two or three things one rings letting blow by low on oil or low vacum meaning she needs a rebuild
any way I wpould pull the head and clean the carbon off cant hurt
Be sure to make sure the oil is not over filled

Click to expand...

Thanks to both, I'll try to re-adjust the carb and then place a load on it, adjust it again, and see what happens. A good friend suggested the same thing, just have to keep my feet out from under the deck!

If no change I'll pull the head and take a lookie-loo.

This is copied from the Tecumseh service manual for your engine:

ENGINE OVERHEATS
1. Make sure the engine is not being overloaded. Remove excess load (sharpen blades, limit operation speed,
process less material).
2. Check the oil level and viscosity. Add or replace as necessary.
3. Check for clogged cooling fins or obstructions to the air flow. Remove the blower housing, clean and reinstall.
4. Check the carburetor for correct adjustment or remove and clean the carburetor using tag wire and compressed
air. See Chapter 3 under "Service."
5. Check the engine R.P.M. setting using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the R.P.M. settings found
on microfiche card #30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust as necessary.
6. Make sure the correct spark plug is being used. Check the ignition timing. See Chapter 8 "Ignition - Service."
Correct flywheel key or partially sheared key.
7. Remove the cylinder head to check for excessive carbon buildup. Clean as necessary.

BREATHER PASSING OIL
The crankcase breather is a one way check valve that allows air out and prevents air from coming in. It allows the engine to develop a partial vacuum in the crankcase during operation.

1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity rating on the container of
the oil being used is to specification.
2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.
3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the
R.P.M. settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust the
high and low R.P.M. as necessary.
4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident; however, the leak
may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.
5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must face down.
6. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression, determine the
cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves. Follow the compression tester's
procedure.
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You can download the manual from this site, it's the first manual:
http://toprake.com/index.php?module=documents&JAS_DocumentManager_op=list&MMN_position=11:11

good luck

Thanks Buzz,

I'm a little hesitant to tear this thing open to be honest. I've checked almost all that was on the list, perhaps I need to open it up, just hoping not to. This type of thing just doesn't happen overnight does it?

The only thing I saw in the breather area when I pened it up was a screen and the valve springs and the hole going down.:thanku:

kaptain krunch said:

A ring job isnt very hard, if you are getting a lot of blow by. Did you overfill the oil by any chance? that could cause blow by also.

why do you need to mow now? its SO wet in vt...

Click to expand...

Kool Kaptain! Can i count on your help?? LOL

I just checked the oil, it is now low after blowing it out,, I double checked before I ran it yesterday. Need to cut while it is somewhat dry before my lawn is 12inches high! I am getting the parts to my Raider's mower deck Sunday so now the LR is doe I can work on it.

I'm about two hours north from MaineDad. I need to test out my new pickup - hmmmm - there's a C-160 with deck and front blade on the coast. Maybe I need to test it more with a tractor pickup, though I'm going to look at a Yamaha electric guitar tonight or tomorrow.

I'm hoping to celebrate the 4th by shredding like a scalded dog on it if I like it!! :hide: Shades of "WKRP in Cincinnati!" :ROF