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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am rebuilding my 1972 LB 8229B, a 2-cycle with a D-448 engine. Mechanics with knowledge of these old mowers are scarce, and I have a few unanswered questions.
(1) ENGINE: has new cylinder, piston, rings, connecting rod, etc. but shows compression of only 65psi. Is this normal for that vintage 2-cycle engine? Will it register higher after the rings "set in?" Could the mechanic have installed the wrong size piston?
(2) DECK PAINT: is LB paint in green color used in 1972 still available? Also, is there a procedure called "powdering" (?) which prepares the surface and gives a better finish? Deck is aluminum or magnesium, I think.
(3) ROLLER DRIVE: my 8229B has a capstan (upper belt) drive. I'm having trouble setting the drive rollers the proper distance from the tires, and the owner's manual and mower repair books do not give clear instructions. Is there some trick to it?
Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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The Sea of Green Machines
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65 works fine on the D4xx though I would have imagined 70 or so brand new. I think 75 is max for them. All of mine are around 65-70 and run fine.

Most of us just use Grabber Green as a close match to the LB green though you can still find LB touch up at a crazy price.

You will have to wait for someone else on the roller drive issue... I hate capstan drive.
 

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Like FordTech said, Your compression is fine. Some folks have the decks and shrouds media blasted to remove the old paint/corrosion. I have my decks and metal shrouds blasted and powder coated by a local shop, mainly because I am too lazy to mess with the chemical stripping or abrading. One thing to keep in mind if you go with the media blasting though, is that you may find holes in the deck once the process is done. The magnesium decks corrode much worse than the aluminum and you may have spots that are close to being all the way through. One thing that I wanted to do on my next project was to have the deck blasted and then use FordTech's idea and apply aluminum bondo to the underside to fill all the pitted areas then have the deck powder coated.
Oh by the way, welcome to the forum and I am glad to see that there are plenty of Texans restoring Lawnboys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
65 works fine on the D4xx though I would have imagined 70 or so brand new. I think 75 is max for them. All of mine are around 65-70 and run fine.

Most of us just use Grabber Green as a close match to the LB green though you can still find LB touch up at a crazy price.

You will have to wait for someone else on the roller drive issue... I hate capstan drive.
Thanks for your reply and comments. As soon as everything is operating properly, I may begin work on the cosmetics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Like FordTech said, Your compression is fine. Some folks have the decks and shrouds media blasted to remove the old paint/corrosion. I have my decks and metal shrouds blasted and powder coated by a local shop, mainly because I am too lazy to mess with the chemical stripping or abrading. One thing to keep in mind if you go with the media blasting though, is that you may find holes in the deck once the process is done. The magnesium decks corrode much worse than the aluminum and you may have spots that are close to being all the way through. One thing that I wanted to do on my next project was to have the deck blasted and then use FordTech's idea and apply aluminum bondo to the underside to fill all the pitted areas then have the deck powder coated.
Oh by the way, welcome to the forum and I am glad to see that there are plenty of Texans restoring Lawnboys.
Thanks for your reply and comments regarding your experience in restoring these old LB mowers. As I do not have the facilities or knowledge for much metal or paint work, I will have to find someone locally to do it if I decided to go ahead and restore the deck completely. I appreciate everyone's thoughts on these problems.
 

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Lawn-Boy fan
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FordTech's idea and apply aluminum bondo to the underside to fill all the pitted areas then have the deck powder coated.
What exactly is aluminum bondo? I've only seen and used the creamy "Bondo" brand stuff. Is there bondo that is made out of aluminum? I assume if it is being powdercoated, the bondo would have to be made of something that is made of metal.

I've been searching online and I see a product called, "All Metal." Is this what you are talking about? http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-all-metal-premium-aluminum-filled-auto-body-filler-p-14787.aspx
 

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I saw it at Auto Zone with all the other conventional bondos. It is expensive, I want to say that it was around $30.00 for a can, looked like a qt. size can. Sean, you brought up a good point...this aluminum bondo may not withstand the heat of the powder coat, I may have to just use conventional paint if I do go that route. I have yet to use this stuff, I have only read about it on here a couple of times in posts by FordTech, maybe he will chime in and give us the "Lowdown" on this stuff.
 

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The Sea of Green Machines
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I havent purchased it either due to the price. I have a small squeeze tube of it and that was 12.00 itself just for small pin hole repairs. It works but I have no idea how it would hold up to powdercoat. I hand paint all mine.
 
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