Each restoration that I take on presents itself with different issues to overcome.
Having seen only one other in my life and that was this one back in the late 70's.
This one was perhaps the most challenging.
If you notice the pic of how it came to me you can see it had a D engine on it.
About all I had to work with was an intact deck,handle,large gas tank,muffler plate,
muffler and height adjustors for the wheels.
I had an old 8005 auto mower that had been through several Mississippi River floods.
It was caked with mud and frozen solid.
I did get the top,armature plate and choke shaft out of it.
I didn't think the armature plate was ever going to come off the old C engine,but it did.
I used the cylinder,crank case and reed plate from the D engine that was on the mower when I got it.
I had a crankshaft and carb from long ago.
I had to change the choke shaft in the carb.
It was a small miracle that the old choke shaft came out of the 8005.
I had an original air cleaner assembly designed for the C carb.
The coil was shot but I had another one.
Thanks to timberwolf1224 for posting a pic of an original 6250
I had enough to start the process.
I had to build the top and dummy tank as well as a new starter housing.
I plugged the gas tank hole in the top,unsoldered the gas neck from the tank
and plugged that hole as well as the gas outlet in the bottom.
I made the data plate from a piece of aluminum.
I suspect the old plate was actually a cast plate with studs to mount it to the deck.
Parts list calls for push nuts to hold it onto the deck.
The deck was sand blasted and painted with Ford red and gray engine paint.
I thought the gray much to dark,so I painted it again with lighter gray.
The red stripe was repainted with suggestions from other members as to
where the stripe ended on the deck.
I had new spring adjustor levers for the height adjustors and after several failed
attempts to get red paint to stick to them, I finally tried several coats of finger nail
polish on the tips. Then painted them red and it stuck.
The wheels are new after market ball bearing. The original wheel bolts did not have the OMC
logo on the ends of the bolts so they are new after market also.
The handle was missing it's pins so I filed off the square ends from some 3/8 " carriage bolts.
Had my welder buddy silver solder them to the bottom half of the handle,then I cut them to
length. Then I ground the oval head down flat on the bolts to get the handle to fit in the
handle brackets.
I took a cup wire brush on the end of an angle grinder and got all the chrome and rust off that I could.
Putting a 3/4 " green shrink tube sleeve on a 7/8" top handle was another issue but after soaking the
sleeve in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and pushing my guts out,I got it on.
I taped the sleeve off,put rusty metal primer on both halves,followed with filler primer.
Sanded the filler primer and shot the handle halves with several coats of high gloss black
followed with lots of coats of chrome paint. It turned out well enough.
I had it all painted and together then the bad news.
My decal supplier was told to stop making Lawn Boy decals.
BUT thanks to Curtis and all his hard work getting his decal supplier to make them,
I had my decals.
Also eric55106 provide the exact fuel mix / starting instruction decal picture.
This restoration is not 100% accurate as far as the front decal and date plate goes.
I used my "best guess" on them.
I realize this is a long read,but I wanted to cover as much of the restoration as possible.
Now it can go up on the shelf.
See more pics here at the bottom of the page:
http://zippos.home.mchsi.com/6250.html
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Having seen only one other in my life and that was this one back in the late 70's.
This one was perhaps the most challenging.
If you notice the pic of how it came to me you can see it had a D engine on it.
About all I had to work with was an intact deck,handle,large gas tank,muffler plate,
muffler and height adjustors for the wheels.
I had an old 8005 auto mower that had been through several Mississippi River floods.
It was caked with mud and frozen solid.
I did get the top,armature plate and choke shaft out of it.
I didn't think the armature plate was ever going to come off the old C engine,but it did.
I used the cylinder,crank case and reed plate from the D engine that was on the mower when I got it.
I had a crankshaft and carb from long ago.
I had to change the choke shaft in the carb.
It was a small miracle that the old choke shaft came out of the 8005.
I had an original air cleaner assembly designed for the C carb.
The coil was shot but I had another one.
Thanks to timberwolf1224 for posting a pic of an original 6250
I had enough to start the process.
I had to build the top and dummy tank as well as a new starter housing.
I plugged the gas tank hole in the top,unsoldered the gas neck from the tank
and plugged that hole as well as the gas outlet in the bottom.
I made the data plate from a piece of aluminum.
I suspect the old plate was actually a cast plate with studs to mount it to the deck.
Parts list calls for push nuts to hold it onto the deck.
The deck was sand blasted and painted with Ford red and gray engine paint.
I thought the gray much to dark,so I painted it again with lighter gray.
The red stripe was repainted with suggestions from other members as to
where the stripe ended on the deck.
I had new spring adjustor levers for the height adjustors and after several failed
attempts to get red paint to stick to them, I finally tried several coats of finger nail
polish on the tips. Then painted them red and it stuck.
The wheels are new after market ball bearing. The original wheel bolts did not have the OMC
logo on the ends of the bolts so they are new after market also.
The handle was missing it's pins so I filed off the square ends from some 3/8 " carriage bolts.
Had my welder buddy silver solder them to the bottom half of the handle,then I cut them to
length. Then I ground the oval head down flat on the bolts to get the handle to fit in the
handle brackets.
I took a cup wire brush on the end of an angle grinder and got all the chrome and rust off that I could.
Putting a 3/4 " green shrink tube sleeve on a 7/8" top handle was another issue but after soaking the
sleeve in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and pushing my guts out,I got it on.
I taped the sleeve off,put rusty metal primer on both halves,followed with filler primer.
Sanded the filler primer and shot the handle halves with several coats of high gloss black
followed with lots of coats of chrome paint. It turned out well enough.
I had it all painted and together then the bad news.
My decal supplier was told to stop making Lawn Boy decals.
BUT thanks to Curtis and all his hard work getting his decal supplier to make them,
I had my decals.
Also eric55106 provide the exact fuel mix / starting instruction decal picture.
This restoration is not 100% accurate as far as the front decal and date plate goes.
I used my "best guess" on them.
I realize this is a long read,but I wanted to cover as much of the restoration as possible.
Now it can go up on the shelf.
See more pics here at the bottom of the page:
http://zippos.home.mchsi.com/6250.html
