Thanks for reminding about setting those seals deeper in the recess. I ended up just driving the lower seal of my 7269B to the bottom of the recess to get to the cleaner portion of the crank. It worked good!I had mentioned about reading that someone had installed a double crankshaft seal by seating the first one and then installing another on top. The theory here being two fold. First, two seals should, in theory, provide extra sealing. Second, when installing the second seal you are installing the second on a section of crankshaft that has not had a seal before. If the crankshaft has wear in the area of the original seal then the second seal should ride in an area that has no wear. I would guess a person would have to measure the depth of the seal area to see if 2 seals could go, one on top of the other. The second one may not sit flush with the crankcase. Compared to the bearing install and piston and rod upgrade, the seals are a cheap test . Bill
I do have an inline filter actually. After it was suggested that I ditch it I noticed the one on the shutoff valve in the tank was dislodged and floating around in there so I'll need to keep it until I fix that at least, but it wasn't restricting flow anyway.Hmmm ..Maybe it would be a good idea to put a fuel filter in the line if there is room.
Also maybe you would be able to unclamp the float and move it further back.
Ok cool, next time I have it apart I'll see what it is at. So I can just reclamp this thing and it will still function properly? It does look like it was sealed before they clamped it.Okay I went out to the garage and measured all the floats I have. 5 new cork floats and 4 used ones. They are all dead on 2 1/8 inches from the center of the hinge pin hole to the far side of the float. Measure yours to see if it is over. Most of mine looked crimped pretty close to the cork. Bill
When it continues to run rich with the mixture screw all the way in it almost has to be getting extra fuel through the primer circuit. Glad you pressed the primer while it's stumbling, if it's running lean it should pick up when you prime it, but yours is wanting to die and is smokey, so yeah running rich and unable to lean it out is typical for a D-400 with a faulty primer. The little red seal at the end of the plunger is what fails and allows too much fuel up to the venturi. This is real common on D-400s that have some age.Then when I started it it just idled really low, oh and when I messed with the high speed mixture screw it ran better with it all the way in, though still really low rpms. And if I pushed the primer in it would make it want to die. My best guess at this point is that it's flooding because the float still isn't working properly. I thought it was an OEM one but it obviously isn't.
Oh and when it was running really low rpms it was smoking noticably more than any time before if that means anything
Yeah I was going to give you credit for it because I remember you mentioning it back on the first page of this thread, but it slipped by me.Rex beat me to the primer issue. Glad he brought it up again. I had mentioned the primer originally but it was kind of glossed over as it is the new style. I have had 2 of those D-400 series, one was a Bricktop edger and the other a mower, that I thought the rubber on the primer looked okay. Started and smoked like crazy and couldn't dial it in. New primers and they ran perfectly. The smokey nature makes me lean back toward replacing the primer. Bill
This one is 2 3/16" from center of hinge pin to far side of float. Doesn't sound like much but if it was just 1/16" closer it sure wouldn't be rubbing on the center housing. So just recrimp it closer and get some airplane dope or similar to coat over the old and new holes ya think?They are all dead on 2 1/8 inches from the center of the hinge pin hole to the far side of the float. Measure yours to see if it is over.