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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I guess since the Hahn project hit a little snag for now I suppose I'll dive into this thing.
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I don't really know much about it yet, other than it has no spark and the lower handle is broken. I hope I don't get addicted to these things, they seem really popular on this board.
 

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Part of the problem is that once people know you like them they will find there way to you. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welp I cleaned the points and got spark but it wouldn't run on its own fuel. Poured a little blend in the plug hole and it barely licked off for like a second. But it was already dark and I called it a night. Pretty good progress for just deciding to go out there on a whim and mess with it. I'll see if I can deal with the fuel system in the morning and if I can somehow weld up the lower handle I might give it a test mow tomorrow. I never even knew these were 2 stroke until I saw that taryl video, pretty neat little machines
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Today I "fixed" the broken handle, I just welded it and ground it smooth. I figure it's not the greatest solution but it's junk either way so I'm not out anything.

Both sides were broken apparently:

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting


Electrical wiring Cable Gas Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Mode of transport Pollution


Wood Automotive tire Bicycle part Auto part Automotive wheel system


Wood Automotive tire Gas Human leg Metal


And installed:
Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Bumper Road surface





Then I figured I'd go ahead and dive into the carb. It's a bad one.

Finger Reptile Electric blue Nail Fashion accessory


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I know you all can smell it. I wish I'd thought to wear gloves, but then I always wish that. Well into the dip it goes for a couple days. Or more.
 

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The float looks like it might be okay. All those that I’ve restored the float has been just charred black with the coating falling off.

Good job on the handle repair!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well thanks! We'll see how it holds up. Half the time I think my welds are really good then you go to test their strength and they just break. Some day I'll get a much better welder and stop depending on this crappy flux core hobbyist unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
...or just overnight.

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Wood Auto part Metal Fashion accessory Machine


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Now I just have to figure out which gas mix I'm gonna go with. I didn't even know these early ones called for such heavy mixtures. I guess since it's an early (what I'm assuming) 2 ring engine that I should just go with 16:1, but what oil? Just regular 2 cycle oil? I was kinda surprised to see a manual say to just use 30w.



If you need the blue flywheel cap, I may have an extra.
Heck I didn't even know it had one, I may hit you up depending on how far I take this refurb. Thanks!
 

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The 16:1 mix would be for the early Lawnboys with the 3 ring piston which yours should have unless someone converted it to the 2 ring piston. Bill
 
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Correct!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I got it running but it wasn't running well. It seemed to kind of surge no matter how I had that high speed mixture screw set. Also the lever at the back didn't seem to have any effect on rpm. So I popped the flywheel off and looked at this governor spring, looks pretty mangled to me:

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Images of good ones on the internet certainly don't look like that. Then for good measure I went ahead and disassembled the carb again. There was some junk in the bowl though I don't think that was causing the surging since there's a screen covering the main pickup at the bottom. But I went ahead and put the main carb body back in the dip in case some of the smaller passages didn't get cleaned out enough.

So I guess I'll order a new governor spring and let this cook until that comes and I should be up and mowing with this thing. Maybe I'll get a blade too. Oh and one of these foam filters.
 

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Well sounds like you are doing good. I’m pretty sure your carb is a replacement. Your original would be a 2 speed carb. No biggie, they are interchangeable. Here is a Partstree link to your original. Just keep in mind if you order parts for your carb that some original parts may not work with that carb you currently have. That carb looks like one from an early 70s D-400.
 

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Even though that spring is bent a bit it looks like it should still work, somewhat. The spring gives it the extra on the normal setting to reach 3200 RPM. With it disconnected the mower should still run smooth but at a lower (2600?) RPM. I am wondering about the rubber on the primer. If the primer is bad it will draw extra fuel past the primer seal and will run rich. Just something else to look at. Those primer seals are very tiny and subject to age. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am wondering about the rubber on the primer. If the primer is bad it will draw extra fuel past the primer seal and will run rich. Just something else to look at. Those primer seals are very tiny and subject to age.
Here's a pic of it, no idea if you can tell just by looking. I did try to blow through it and it was sealed tight if that tells you anything.
Bicycle part Wood Auto part Fashion accessory Metal


Nice mower, these are some of the best they ever made in my opinion. If it’s surging you may have an air leak at the crank seals. They can be changed without tearing down the engine if needed. Also make sure your carb and reed gaskets are in good shape. Good luck sorting it out.
All the gaskets look like they're sealing, still have some springiness to them, etc. Any way to verify leaky seals? I'll be honest here I don't have a lot of experience with 2 cycle stuff.



I took the carb back out and sprayed through all passages with a can of carb spray I didn't know I had, so I'm pretty confident that it's good now. Same story, it would sort of start and run badly, not technically surging but stumbling. I bent the gov spring so that it would be tighter and pulled and pulled and pulled. Nothing.

Then I thought maybe the plug wasn't actually sparking even though the cheap spark tester is just a blinking away every pull. Pulled the plug and laid it against the head and it was sparking. Then I figured it might be fouled so I torched it real good with some mapp, put it back in and it started and ran like before, died, and wouldn't restart. I figured maybe I just kept flooding it.

So then I pulled and pulled and pulled trying to get it to start and run badly just so I could get some video of it. Finally it started and I hit record. Perfect, it's doing this weird stumbling thing. Then I pushed in the high speed lever and it smoothed out. Pull it back out, slight stumbling here and there. I ran it like this for maybe 5 minutes and mowed the tiny side yard. Shut it down, wouldn't restart.

Disregard the part in the middle where I'm trying to show the gov spring engagement with the high/low lever. I figured out how to show it a little later.



I'm starting to wonder if I need to actually replace the points and condenser? All I did was sand the points with emery cloth and check the gap.
 

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Alright good deal! Hey did you clean the exhaust ports? I don’t remember reading that you did anything underneath the mower. There is a good chance those 3 ports are restricted.
 

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If you are able to get it to run again also spray some carb spray on the carb and around the gaskets then if it revs up you know you have a air leak somewhere.
-Nate
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alright good deal! Hey did you clean the exhaust ports? I don’t remember reading that you did anything underneath the mower. There is a good chance those 3 ports are restricted.
It was on my list of maintenance items, I just got so caught up in getting it running that I kinda overlooked that being a reason for how it's running badly.
 
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