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Just thought I’d share some pics of the short block I shipped to Dan today. It’s kinda rare, a very late version of the F series with the thrust bearing and washer installed. Everything looked great in there so I sealed it up and torqued all 4 case bolts and drove in new seals. Notice how well those thrust roller bearings prevent wear on the inside of the cover where the crank typically bores down on that soft aluminum of the older F series.


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The Sea of Green Machines
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Sweet!
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Sweet is right, and it looks just as sweet on the outside. Hooked it all up and got it started after 5 pulls. It is alive and running. After a few more attempts I finally had it idling at a very low idle so I left it running for about 15minutes. Carb is running very rich and will not rev up any at all. I know the problem is in the carb settings, I just ran out of time and quit.
LawnBoy77, I owe a BIG Thank You for the donation of a very nice engine and parts. I really do appreciate a person like you. You have made it possible for me to save this old 1994 10545 Lawn Boy with a transplant of a 1997 engine.
For now this engine not starting problem is gone. Now on to finish the assembly of the flywheel brake, wiring, alternator, starter, battery, all three covers, blade assembly, and the final carb adjustments to get this engine revving up and cutting grass. I can hardly wait. And one more unexpected problem, the bushing pressed into the bottom end of the block, for the starter snout, is not inserted in this 10401 engine.
 

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Oh man! Sorry to hear about that bushing not being there for the starter. I’ve never dealt with an electric start version, so I suppose none of my F series would have that bushing installed. Hopefully you can remove the one from the original engine, and install on the new. Is it bronze? What about using the heavy grease and punch technique to hydraulically remove the bushing?


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Discussion Starter #25
heavy grease and punch technique
Never heard of that so I searched youtube and found several ways to do this. So, I gave it my best effort and decided this is a trial and error and I had the error. So putting the starter bushing in is on hold for now. At least I have the standard way of starting the mower, pull to start.
Will attempt to have it running and mow the grass tomorrow.
A pic of the cylinder compression on the new engine. And yes it was noticeable from the old engine.
2461972

Here is a 25 sec youtube video of mower idling then me pushing the throttle forward.
 

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The cylinder compression should get better. I don't think that engine has enough operating time after overhaul for the rings to seat yet. I think it will be alright once you get that carb dialed in. Just out of curiosity, is the new coil, aftermarket, or OEM?

Below is a link of the bushing removal technique that I was referring to. It works really well most of the time. We used it in the Air Force when removing cruise missile wing pivot bushings. You may need some heat first to expand the aluminum.

You could also just measure the OD, ID and length, and go match it up at a good hardware store.

 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just out of curiosity, is the new coil, aftermarket, or OEM?
Interesting you would ask that, it is a new aftermarket and the shape is different than the OEM but mounting holes are at the same location as it needs.
The cylinder compression should get better. I don't think that engine has enough operating time after overhaul for the rings to seat yet
After I mounted the engine, that's when I took that compression test. Five test pulls while it was still cold looking for a baseline. I'll take another test later after I have used the mower and it has had a chance to seat the rings some more.
bushing removal technique that I was referring to. It works really well most of the time.
Yeah, about that, I measured the bushing with my caliper and came up with an id 8mm x od 10mm length 15mm. Amazon has a pack of three for 5.09 so that is an easy option, but I like the idea of going to a hardware store and checking that out just to see. But that ship has sailed for a safe removal of the one I have. The word butchered comes to mind o_O
 

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I have used the aftermarket coils for the Duraforce with success however I believe that the information that was posted previously stated that the mounting holes allowed for too much variance in mounting and could change the timing. I think Lawnboy77 will have some additional information regarding this. Bill
 

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I have used the aftermarket coils for the Duraforce with success however I believe that the information that was posted previously stated that the mounting holes allowed for too much variance in mounting and could change the timing. I think Lawnboy77 will have some additional information regarding this. Bill
Yeah I went through quite a nightmare with a batch of coils I bought off ebay. The mounting holes were too large and allowed the timing to be changed significantly. Long story short, even with the adjustments though I never really had much success with the ones I bought...at around 2500 rpm they would start to 4 cycle, it was obvious after studying the scenario and purchasing the real deal coils from Germany (OEM Lawnboy) that the cheap ones that I bought were just not up to par. Now having said that, I know guys have reported success with those cheap coils, all I'm saying is that I did not, and I find the German ones to be spot on with the specs on the timing in both start and run phase. I could adjust the rpms to whatever I wanted with those good German coils, tons more power, etc, etc. All indications are that they will far outlast those particular aftermarket ones as well.
 
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