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Discussion Starter #1
What I have is a Lawn Boy 10545 Gold Series, 3 speed self propelled, electric start, aluminum deck that I picked up many years ago and put it in an out of the way spot in my garage and left it.
The person I bought it from told the story he received it from his uncle that lived in another sate. The uncle had problems with the mower not starting and he was done with it so he gave it away. He never got it running either but claims all it needed was a coil and he no longer wanted to mess with it so for sale it went. That's when I showed up.
My attempt to problem solving started with a quick tune up, new Champion RJ12C spark plug gapped to .030, pulled the metal Walbro carb and cleaned it, foam air filter was cleaned and re-oiled, cleaned out gas tank, wire brushed and sanded the flywheel to a shine and gapped with a business card, removed coil and wire brushed and sanded contacts. All of these parts did not look neglected or corroded just normal dirty.
Put about 16 oz of oil gas mix I use on my LB 10323, check for fuel leaks and squirt some starting fluid in carb and no start. Several cranks later and still nothing that is close to firing off.
Now this is not the whole story. The spark plug wire where it is attached to the coil just fell off when I checked it. So I just inserted it back in. The starter battery is gone and an attempt to bypass the wiring from starter switch to battery to the Bosch relay to alternator to kill switch to coil is very amateurish. One of the wires that is tucked under cowl was pinched and separated. So I removed the alternator, Bosch relay, disconnected the kill switch. Disconnected wiring from the kill switch just in case I missed a wire. Bypassing all of the connections so they are not part of the problem. Pulled the spark plug, connected the coil plug wire and gave it a pull. Spark looks plenty good on plug gap and should fire right up.
Replace plug into cylinder and spray starting fluid into carb, pulled the rope and again nothing. Checked to see if plug is still firing and it looks good.
Spark plug is getting a spark, carb is getting gas, air cleaner is clean, still no attempt at firing off.
I have also put a squirt of gas into cylinder, change plug to RCJ8Y, same result, nothing.
Now out of all of this I have not checked the cylinder compression. With the plug in and pulling the rope I am getting a good compression kickback, it's just not been tested with a gauge by me.

The big question is, what is it I am overlooking or need to verify or replace? Any comments will get a response to help guide me further.

This 10545 is not my first Lawn Boy, it's just another.
I have a 1998 Dura Force LB 10323 Silver Series self proplled that I bought new and it runs as good now as it did 20 years ago and it was not the first.
 

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The Sea of Green Machines
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Spark, compression, fuel, air you have the elements. Now what is missing? Timing maybe? Maybe the flywheel key is sheared and needs to be replaced?
 

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LBAD Victim
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I second what everyone else has said. In addition to that, don't use starting fluid in a 2 cycle engine. There is no oil, so it is like starting it with straight gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First of all, thanks for the input as it never hurts to have a second opinion to verify. Flywheel key has not been sheared or no markings inside of flywheel that shows a "shift" in the key. The key is steel and not aluminum.
The compression is at 91 psi and a compression leakdown for 10 minutes results in a 62 psi. That tells me compression is in the good range. Leakdown not so sure. Any thoughts on this?
Another note is, cutting blade does not show any evidence of a hard hit does but show a lot of wear from previous owner.
LawnToro, that is good to know about starting fluid on an old Lawn Boy setting for several years. Any suggestions as to a method to get a good shot of fuel to "jump start" this to life?

I'm not sure on this one, but If there is no choke or any primer bulb on this model 10545, how will I know how to choke or prime it? The throttle and cable are still in working order and connected to the carb, should that be enough?
 

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The Sea of Green Machines
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No matter what you think that key is made of, it can and will shear under the right circumstances. Yours apparently is very much still intact. Check the flywheel too that it was properly aligned with the key. Im out of guesses from Oklahoma. Sorry.

I found this on another thread for F series engines
80 psi and under is considered low (Cold)
100-115 is considered normal (Cold)
90-105 is considered normal (Hot)

And I guess you could check for a completely clogged muffler too.
 

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That metal Walbro carb should have a choke acccording to Lawnboy's web site. In 1995 they went to the plastic carb with a primer. They did make a cold start enhance kit for the Walbros with the choke. It replaced the bowl nut with a fitting for a primer hose and a bracket and primer bulb to mount near the carb box. I had one on my 10401 but never used the primer. I always consider the first pull a prime pull on the old "Boys" although sometimes they will start on one pull. Bill
 

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Compression is still on the low side. A healthy F series will be 20 to 30 psi higher. If it were mine I’d give it an overhaul, and for sure replace the CD module with an OEM module. Low compression, coupled with old seals and a CD module that doesn’t have an accurate spark advance might just be what you are fighting.


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Discussion Starter #9
Lawnboy77, that advice makes sense for what my problem is. A weak spark(?) from the coil and a possibly dried out oil seal from setting many years, again makes sense. I know the coil I need is
Module-C.D. Ignition & Lead
Part# 683215 (Superseded to 100-2948)
but to me looking at the engine schematic I don't see a part number for the bottom of crank oil seal, only the top.
SEAL-OIL
Part# 611396
I have not been schooled on how to read this schematic but I would guess it is understood there is a top and a bottom crank seal with the same part number, it just does not have a call-out that says "2 required".
Am I correct with the part number for the seal? If so I will order and replace both top and bottom seals.
The flywheel was perfectly aligned to the crank key and the inside of flywheel has no scoring. Also it was extremely easy to remove with a light tap of the old ball peen, 12oz.
I am guessing that this 1994 year of 10545 that I have does not a have a carb primer or what I consider to be a manual choke, either by a cable or a pull out, like the old BS engines had many years ago.
Will update again after the new coil and seals are installed and ..........
 

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The metal Walbro carb has a choke. Here is the parts diagram. Choke shaft #34. Choke butterfly #32. Choke operates from the throttle cable control. Bill

 

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but to me looking at the engine schematic I don't see a part number for the bottom of crank oil seal, only the top.
SEAL-OIL
Part# 611396
I have not been schooled on how to read this schematic but I would guess it is understood there is a top and a bottom crank seal with the same part number, it just does not have a call-out that says "2 required".
Am I correct with the part number for the seal? If so I will order and replace both top and bottom seals.
The flywheel was perfectly aligned to the crank key and the inside of flywheel has no scoring. Also it was extremely easy to remove with a light tap of the old ball peen, 12oz.
I am guessing that this 1994 year of 10545 that I have does not a have a carb primer or what I consider to be a manual choke, either by a cable or a pull out, like the old BS engines had many years ago.
Will update again after the new coil and seals are installed and ..........
Yes the top and bottom crankshaft oil seal is the same part number, 611396.

As Bill mentioned already, you have a choke only, no primer. Pushing the throttle full forward will apply the choke, once started you pull it back out of the choke detent and into the run position. A really nice setup, I currently have three of those Walbro equipped models and love them all.

You can temporarily boost the compression with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder to see if that makes a difference.

In regards to the ignition module...I suspect that one is the original and 25 year is a lot to ask of those components...and if it's an aftermarket coil then anything is possible with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here where I am at with this mower.
Put new crank seals top and bottom, pulled muffler and place in my charcoal grille and let it cook until the coals burned out. When it was cool I beat it like a drum until all of the trash came out and then took compressed air and blown it out to made it all trash and dust free, inside and out. Then I painted it gloss black to make it look better for now, knowing it will burn off later. Put some blue Loctite on all the bolts and re-assembled the bottom end. Cleaned out the exhaust port. It was partially clogged maybe 25-30% blocked, and now and it looks good just no picture of it. Before mounting to mower body, I placed a new belt on it. You can see the old belt in one of the pictures.
On the top end, replaced the coil with a new unit and use a business card cap, replaced the clean carburetor, and the assembled the top cowling and pull cord. Squirted some oil into cylinder and pulled the cord a few times to limber it up. Ran another compression check and it is still at 90 psi. No change from previous attempt with old seals and clogged ports. Replaced the plug and turned on the gas. Let it sit for a few minutes to fill the carburetor, put the transmission in neutral, set the throttle to start, pulled the cord a few times and it stumbled to like sputtering, coughing and choking. Next attempt it took a couple pulls and it fired off but did not want to idle. Trying to throttle it to keep it running helped but it never reached any type of a running rpm.
The sounds this makes does not sound right, like it is binding down or held back and again, does not sounds right to me. Kinda like it is out of oil and cylinder is seizing up.
bottom.jpg
exhaust port.jpg
bottom seal.jpg
top seal.jpg
muffler.jpg
Several more attempts to start and it never fired off. When pulling the rope, the sound it makes is like metal to metal scrapping.
This tells me the spark, air, fuel are all there to make this a good running mower, the compression is maybe low but it does start, which leaves me to think that the previously owner(s), the mower was attempted to run with straight gas and not the oil gas mix it needs. I don't have any experience in hearing what that sound is like so I don't know if that's what I have here.
Any comments, suggestions or thoughts on what I have or what I should try, let me know.
 

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The Sea of Green Machines
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I had a Duraforce that had been straight gassed. It made a loud clunking noise like it had no piston rings at all or rod bearings
 
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I would guess if it is binding or rubbing somewhere that you should be able to hear and/or feel it when just rotating the blade. Pull the plug out to reduce the compression when you try this. Feel and listen closely. Bill
 

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Why is there a crankcase bolt missing? If someone removed the flywheel brake assembly for whatever reason there would need to be shorter bolts installed and torqued to hold the case halves together. I just didn't read where you messed with the flywheel brake, so I see no reason for any of the bolts holding the crankcase halves together to be missing. If you didn't mess with the case bolts then someone has already split the case.
 

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Spark, compression, fuel, air you have the elements. Now what is missing? Timing maybe? Maybe the flywheel key is sheared and needs to be replaced?
What I have is a Lawn Boy 10545 Gold Series, 3 speed self propelled, electric start, aluminum deck that I picked up many years ago and put it in an out of the way spot in my garage and left it.
The person I bought it from told the story he received it from his uncle that lived in another sate. The uncle had problems with the mower not starting and he was done with it so he gave it away. He never got it running either but claims all it needed was a coil and he no longer wanted to mess with it so for sale it went. That's when I showed up.
My attempt to problem solving started with a quick tune up, new Champion RJ12C spark plug gapped to .030, pulled the metal Walbro carb and cleaned it, foam air filter was cleaned and re-oiled, cleaned out gas tank, wire brushed and sanded the flywheel to a shine and gapped with a business card, removed coil and wire brushed and sanded contacts. All of these parts did not look neglected or corroded just normal dirty.
Put about 16 oz of oil gas mix I use on my LB 10323, check for fuel leaks and squirt some starting fluid in carb and no start. Several cranks later and still nothing that is close to firing off.
Now this is not the whole story. The spark plug wire where it is attached to the coil just fell off when I checked it. So I just inserted it back in. The starter battery is gone and an attempt to bypass the wiring from starter switch to battery to the Bosch relay to alternator to kill switch to coil is very amateurish. One of the wires that is tucked under cowl was pinched and separated. So I removed the alternator, Bosch relay, disconnected the kill switch. Disconnected wiring from the kill switch just in case I missed a wire. Bypassing all of the connections so they are not part of the problem. Pulled the spark plug, connected the coil plug wire and gave it a pull. Spark looks plenty good on plug gap and should fire right up.
Replace plug into cylinder and spray starting fluid into carb, pulled the rope and again nothing. Checked to see if plug is still firing and it looks good.
Spark plug is getting a spark, carb is getting gas, air cleaner is clean, still no attempt at firing off.
I have also put a squirt of gas into cylinder, change plug to RCJ8Y, same result, nothing.
Now out of all of this I have not checked the cylinder compression. With the plug in and pulling the rope I am getting a good compression kickback, it's just not been tested with a gauge by me.

The big question is, what is it I am overlooking or need to verify or replace? Any comments will get a response to help guide me further.

This 10545 is not my first Lawn Boy, it's just another.
I have a 1998 Dura Force LB 10323 Silver Series self proplled that I bought new and it runs as good now as it did 20 years ago and it was not the first.
Check solid state for rust on the heals and post regap to .010 with business card,check spark plug,and maybe flywheel key is bad. check flywheel magnets for rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lawnboy77, good eye catching that the flywheel brake bolt is missing.
Just to be sure about the noise I heard or the possibility of any wiring, I removed the flywheel brake and all attaching hardware. Including the electric starter wiring, also from the underside, the blade, much bar and collar. And left out the alternator for the same reason.
I do not see where that would interfere with the mower starting, but may be a problem when it's time to kill it. I Was on standby with a pliers to pull spark plug boot off. I was in a bit of a rush to save time and hassle to hear it start and run is the reason they are not installed. Will putting the bolts back in help it starting?

Mowerdoctor1 The coil is new and rust free and gap adjusted with a business card. I wire brushed the flywheel and sanded the magnet to a shine. Spark plug is new and gapped at .030, also tried two more just in case the oiled or gas too much. Flywheel key or flywheel is not sheared or shifted.

I will give another update after checking the source of the sound and verify what it is. But it is definetely not the flywheel brake or grinding of the blade. 😅
 

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I was concerned with it being ran with 2 of the 4 crankcase cover bolts not installed. I don’t think that is a good idea. You can imagine the forces being applied to the remaining 2 bolts and the area around the bolts. Just the flexing of the aluminum cover with the bolts on the same side removed could cause the case sealing joint to open. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I think it’s time for tear down, inspection and overhaul. This one has probably been straight gassed, and that’s the reason for the binding and metallic sound.


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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update on what I have now.
YardNazi (Bill) I took your advice and discovered there was some slack in the crank as I slowly rotated the cylinder. Also a bit of a grind or low scraping of metal inside the case. So I made a decision to tear the case down to the view the bottom end around the rod bolts. I see a gap in between the roller bearings, like a few of them are missing. Keep in mind I have never been into a lawn mower case. So I take the piston out of the cylinder and obvious to me that there is a wobble in the rod bearings and that's not the way it should be. Looking at the cylinder wall, there is a very small amount of scraping but looks good enough that it will clean up with a bit of polishing. The main journal area looks okay, no wear. Now the bottom end case, looks like it had a lot of wear on the crank journals as seen in pics. Rod looks okay as does the upper and lower crank bearings. The rod bearing liners looks like this is where the sounds has been coming from. It has heat scarring and a lot of grinding marks. The needle bearings look okay, with a total of 32 bearings. Piston has a bit of scratching but should polish up okay. Crank may be trash, I don't know if it will pass with those deep scratches around the rod journal area.
So if I didn't miss anything, this will need, IMO
LINER ASM Part# 677982
Bottom end - Cylinder & Crankshaft Cover Assembly Part # 683702
681737 rings
possibly Crankshaft Part# 92-6375
92-4921 CONNECTING ROD ASM
Knowing that it will need these parts, is this mower worth the cost in parts or better to junk it?
Thoughts, opinions, comments, cheap parts?
2461127
2461129
2461130
2461131
 

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I wouldn't waste my time and money with that engine, almost looks like someone has been in there following a straight gassing and replaced the piston. The piston looks somewhat clean and out of place compared to the rest of the parts, look at how much heat the connecting rod was exposed to, it's charred black and I don't even see any evidence of liners in there. Normally that piston will look rough with as much heat and wear that is going on in there. You know I have a few spare F series short blocks that are really good that I could send you. I doubt I'll ever need all of them. I'm on vacation this week and cleaning out the shed so it's good timing for both of us. Just PM me your address and I'll get one mailed out ASAP.
 
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