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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The stock driveshaft in my 1886-01 project tractor is 17-3/4" overall length, from tip of hydro yoke to tip of engine crankshaft yoke. (see pics)

I am wondering if any of the large frame models had a longer stock driveshaft?
I am going to need to have it 18-3/4"~19"" overall to make everything line up perfectly and align PTO pulleys, provide clearance behind motor for exhaust header, etc.

What I am wondering is whether any stock large frame Bolens had a 19" driveshaft, so that I could locate and use a stock one, or if I should just go ahead and take mine to a drive shaft shop to have the tube replaced with one that is an inch longer.

If anyone has a Bolens large frame drive shaft out of the tractor where they can measure it easily, would you mind doing so, and posting your model# and driveshaft length here?
 

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It minus 6 degrees out but I just went out and measured mine. Tip to tip I am seeing 18 7/16".A memeber on here told me from the pic's that I posted that he was certain (100%) I had an 1886-01, other that that I do not know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Deerlope. Minus 6 degrees and soem crazy guy is out there measuring tractor parts.
I have a 1455 to measure, but it is loaded into my enclosed trailer and covered with a bunch of other stuff that I have to move before I can get the fender off to get at it. My 1476 is 750 miles away at my Idaho house, so I can't really measure it.
 

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Steevo,
A little advice about a driveshaft. If you have to have one made, make it a 2 piece one. I have a 1455 that was repowered with a Briggs 16hp engine. It kept breaking the bearing housings until I figured out that pulling a load with the tractor was causing a bind in the universals. I had a 2 piece shaft made and have not had any problems since. I pull a 12in 3ph plow at different plowdays and really put a load on the tractor.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is a good idea, Dave.
Did you have it done with a sliding spline setup?
I am also considering mounting my replacement engine with the driveshaft a bit lower than the stock K482 was, which will reduce driveshaft and u-joint angles. I'll just need shorter PTO belts.
 

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I guess I'm lucky because there is a driveline shop about 20 miles from me. They made it with 1in square stock and an extended yoke. It is the same setup that they use to run hydraulic pumps off of a transmission that has a PTO . They told me my shaft was strong enough for up to 50 hp.It has a grease zerk on the extended part to keep it from binding.
Dave
 

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Steevo do you by chance have a driveshaft, clutch, and joint business close to you, when i repowered my 1476 i had to get a different end for my drive shaft and had to have around a inch and a half to 2 inches cut off ,so you might be able to go there and get the extended end and thread a hole closer to the end and you would be in business I think the end that was put on mine was 4 inches, or if you have a tractor supply or or lmplement dealer close by they should be able to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
John,
Yes, there are several drive shaft places within an hour of me. I'll probably just go into one and see what my options are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I drew this up to help clarify what I need.
I'll get the remaining measurements entered tonight, so that I can take the old driveshaft and my drawing to a drive shaft place and get a quote for building a new one or modifying mine.
 

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Steevo you should be able to get a extended end for the 1- 1/8 end of the drive shaft that goes on the engine side I think mine was 4 inches before I cut it off. I wouldn't change the hydrostaic end if yours is like my 1476 it is the shorter of the 2 shafts and it is alot shorter
 

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Steevo ,
If the shop is a good one, they can cut the hydro end off and reuse it on a new shaft. When the shop did mine they used the hydro end ,but had to put a new one on the engine end, The original one broke one of the "ears" off when the bearing went out. Your drawing looks a lot like my driveshaft. Mine cost me about $124.00 and that included a new yoke and all new bearings. Good luck and Happy New Year!!
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wouldn't change the hydrostaic end if yours is like my 1476 it is the shorter of the 2 shafts and it is alot shorter
Agreed. In fact, I have often wondered why they didn't make the hydro input shafts a little beefier. Maybe an inch thick and another 1/2" longer? It seems like teh weakest point in the drive train, and judging by the condition of a lot of them, they do loosen up and wobble or spin pretty frequently.
 

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I think that going with a 2 piece shaft is a great idea.
 

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Agreed. In fact, I have often wondered why they didn't make the hydro input shafts a little beefier. Maybe an inch thick and another 1/2" longer? It seems like teh weakest point in the drive train, and judging by the condition of a lot of them, they do loosen up and wobble or spin pretty frequently.
This is what the PO of my 1886-04 did to it befor I got it


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That is a nasty one.
How does someone get it so bent?
Maybe it threw the driveshaft and then they tried to push/tow it with a truck?
 

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How do plan on secureing it to the hydro. Its usually just a slip fit and sits there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is the hydro input shaft of the 1886-01 I am currently working on.
The keyway is a bit loose, the shaft is dinged up and has numerous rough spots in it, even after I carefully emery-clothed the high spots.




I am not sure if I ought to attempt to tighten the woodruff key slot by hitting the sides with a spot from my MIG welder or not. If I am fast, I won't heat it up enough to fry the seal. Then again, the seal should probably be replaced anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Jerome, you gotta wonder what the guy was thinking when he decided to open it up like a can of sardines here:
 

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