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I'm sure this topic has been discused before but not real good with using the search tools on MTF so my apologies if this is repetitive. I want to start building a 3 point for my 1250 I just got running. Is there any prints or diagrams I could refer to get the correct angles, dimensions and lift?
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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I have also been unable to find any dimensions.

I've been wondering about the Cat 0 vs. Cat 1 for a HT23.

I gather the difference is pin size and lift capability. But is there more implements available in Cat 0 or 1?
 

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You can have a "O " cat and if you want to use a cat 1 attachment just change the pins to a cat "O".
 

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The spacing between the lifting arms is narrower on a Cat. 0. Category 0 is 20" and uses 5/8" pins. I think Category 1 is 26" and uses 3/4" pins, but I could be wrong on that. I do know that Category 1 is greater than 20". So it is not just the pin size, although that is part of it.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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That does help answer a few questions for me, but the real remaining question for dimensions is the actual lengths of lower lift arms. Also, I really haven't found a 18086 type close up detail for the rock shaft. There was one where a thread last summer was discussing building a rock shaft on the back between the rails, like the factory set did, but I never saw a good closeup and didn't really read any details about the components to fab up the rock shaft, i.e., the size and style of the pillow block and bearings that they used.
 

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May have been mine. I've got it partially dis-assembled now (hydro and engine will be gone through this Fall) so can get some measurements off of it if this is what you are looking for. Blocks on it are similar to what I made up to replace the broken factory blocks for the factory rock-shaft.

Initially I built the 18010 3-pt (as laid out in the "Bolens model 18010 3PT Hitch") and then hacked it up a bit when I decided to try the dedicated lift cylinder. Lift arms show 17-3/16" center-to-center. Wishing I had gone with swivel eyes and should have made some bends to square up the ends with the axle tabs and the implement ends (probably will re-do the arms one day).
 

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THe stock 18086 3-pt uses chunks of cast iron at the end of the rock shaft. Those chunks are shaped to fit into the end of the frame rails, with 5/8" bolts run into them top and bottom using the existing holes in the end of the frame rails. The curved cutout on the frame rails is for the zerk fitting on the blocks.

If one were to try to make something similar, the starting point would have to be something to replace those blocks. Then that would determine the length of the cross (rock) shaft
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Yes I believe that is the one. I remember the dedicated cylinder in that thread. I was interested in that as well. How did you get along with the separate cyl for the 3 point use alone. I seem to remember that someone had suggested a selector valve for the Aux system that a person could then leave a blade mounted on the front and hooked to the front ports while using the rear Aux ports, and merely select the front or rear ports. I believe you had a added valve on the left side of the steering wheel and you were going to use the original valve for the Aux ports....but I do have gray hair, I could have forgotten what all was in that thread.

I'd be interested in a few more details regarding the rock shaft. In yours, there isn't any bearings to bear the weight of the rock shaft? Or maybe I'm misinterpreting the photo. I like how you have that as a removable unit. And I like the idea of the separate cylinder for the 3 pth........nice work on that design. I was looking at some pillow block bearing that I might be able to mount inside the frame rail. The idea of carrying the mounting steel plate inward to what appears to be about 18" or 24" to spread out the weight, would appear to be a good way to relieve any extreme stress at the rear of the frame.

I'm guessing from the one kit I found, that the lower lift arm needs to be about 21" long and would need the swivel balls to be completely as close to factory as possible. I've seen several locations where I can buy just the components separately. TSC seems to have some items, but so does several other online sites. The rock shaft was going to be my challenge to create it. Now with your additional photo, I can visualize the set up much better.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Oh, so a real ball bearing isn't necessary for the shaft if it is greased, from the fact there is minimal movement. Maybe a 1/2 turn on the shaft? I could have a welder shop make a block out of thick steel perhaps. I could have the hole drilled for the size shaft I'd use, which is maybe a 1" shaft, by guessing at the photo.
 

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Yes, it's a 1" shaft. The guy at the steel store talked me out of the cheapest round and suggested I go with what they use for cylinder pins. I used cardboard to size everything up and to check the swing and clearance under the seat pan and height of the lift arms and such. Then I cut and drilled 1/4" flat for the cylinder tabs and 3/8" flat for the lift tabs. I think there is only about a 1/4 turn of the shaft so I figured my fab'd blocks would be fine for what I would use it for (thus far pulling a 4'x10' trailer all of two times).

The tractor came to me with the dual control already mounted (and minus the factory dash mounted control), so I found a used dash mount unit (with float) and re-plumbed it to switch it back to the factory configuration and used one port on the dual unit for the 3-pt (the other port I used for the snow-blade angle this past winter). My plan is to mount another control valve (again with float) under the seat pan for the 3-pt and then use the dual unit for split front and rear auxiliary ports. That'll be my Fall project along with the engine and hydro rebuilds.
 
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