[scout3351]

I've got an old Simplicity Landlord (ser # 004998). The engine model number is 243431. It's got the belly blade on it and I like to use it to clear slush or ice off the driveway. First question: what do I have here? what year, hp, etc. Second question: at first startup it runs pretty good but as it warms up it starts cutting out. I try to keep it running by choking it but then it just backfires and may or may not continue to run. I think I have seen somewhere that the problem could be the ignition coil but I can't find the post. I have replaced the points and condenser and cleaned the carb. There is some slop in the carb shafts, could that be the problem? If so are carbs available? I got this for nothing so I don't mind spending a few bucks on it. I just need to know where to start.

thanks

 

[Talntedmrgreen]

Tough to say what model you have without a picture or model #. The model # should be right there with your serial number. They used that engine for a while (starting in 1965), and it's a 10hp Briggs.

Sounds like a lean condition which could very well be something minute still in the carb, another obstruction in the fuel system, a vacuum issue or an air leak.

Try shooting starting fluid around the joint where the intake manifold meets the block when your engine starts stumbling. Thats a quick test to rule out a leak there.

Is your float adjusted correctly?

New carb bushings are still available...I would have to look up the part number, but that couod also be the culprit.

 

[scout3351]

It is a 3210 V Power.

You don't think it might be the coil? Is there a way to test the coil? I have the engine sitting on my workbench and would like to make sure it is good before I set it back in.

 

[Dee_Veloper]

I have the same engine on my tractor and suffered many hours of trying to get it to run smooth while experiencing many of the same problems you have described.

If you already have the engine out and on the bench then I would just go ahead and put in a new coil. If you still have performance problems you might also want to consider an external electronic ignition module.

The module available from NAPA or online, is about $20 and is easy to install. I removed the condenser and replaced it with the ignition module. I only had to reconnect the one coil wire previously going to the condenser.

here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRONIC-...597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a66b36755

I consider it the best $20 I spent on the tractor.

 

[Talntedmrgreen]

It is a 3210 V Power.

You don't think it might be the coil? Is there a way to test the coil? I have the engine sitting on my workbench and would like to make sure it is good before I set it back in.

You can test the coil, or put an in-line spark tester on there to see what your fire looks like when it starts to peter out. My money is on a lean condition simply because I've seen it several times before. But if for some reason you did pull the engine, it's not a bad idea to get in there and replace the coil. I've gone to a 12V coil on a few tractors where spark was an issue because it's cheap and easy and that has always make positive difference too. If you have a 12v coil laying around, that's a good work around that will tell you if your internal coil isn't up to par.

I would like to try the module Dee mentions at some point, but don't have a good canidate at the moment.

 

[Justy37]

Sounds like carb issues. I would see about a rebuild kit.

 

[scout3351]

I ordered the module and am checking on a coil too. Has anyone got a part number for a carb kit?

 

[Dee_Veloper]

My BS carb overhaul kit was #391071.

Although, since you already cleaned the carb, I would do the electrical mods first and see if your problems aren't resolved. You can do the carb rebuild anytime.

 

[shamrockjack]

On this model briggs gas tanks and filter and shut off can cause trouble.But most will be electrica weak condensor bad ground dirty points maybe the coil in over 50 years of messing with mowers I've had one bad coil and that was in a Ford 8N mowe about half hour and tractor would die put in a new coil and trouble was over .

 

[scout3351]

Thanks for all the info so far. I have ordered a new coil and I got the module. It looks like they want the module mounted inside the fan housing. Is that correct?

 

[Dee_Veloper]

I put the module inside the points box. I replaced the condenser with it, and left in the old points.

 

[scout3351]

I got the new coil a couple days ago but there are 2 wires coming out of the windings instead of 1 like the old one. Is the extra wire for some other application or do I need to use it? My first thought is to cut one of them off but thought it is better to ask the experts.

 

[shamrockjack]

I thought there was 2 wires on all mag coils one is ground the other ges to points not sure been a time sinc I did one.

 

[scout3351]

Duh! There are 2 wires. The ground wire was a single strand uninsulated that was hooked to the bolt holding the coil. I overlooked it. The wires on the new coil were both insulated wires with crimped on ends. Sorry for the confusion. I got it put back together today. I replaced the coil, added the electronic ignition, put in a new spark plug, and cleaned out the fuel tank. It fired right up and ran great. I haven't been able to use it for any length of time yet but it's snowing now!!!
Thanks for all the help.

 

[scout3351]

got to use the tractor today. It never missed a beat for about 45 minutes while clearing the driveway. It was well worth the time and money.