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What should I call the L120 with K66 tranny?

  • L120K66

    Votes: 4 30.8%
  • L120SHD

    Votes: 1 7.7%
  • L120 Type R

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • L120GT

    Votes: 3 23.1%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .
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Only 40 K66 Upgrade kits left. When they are sold ... It's over!

We are selling about five per week and expect that to rapidly increase as the quantity gets lower and the grass gets greener!

Got Kit?

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Sorry for the long post.

I completed the K66 re-fit, but don't have in-progress pictures... sorry... once I get into it, it's tough to put down a greasy wrench wipe hands, and handle the camera.

The change is super simple if you have the parts. Refer to JD Parts diagrams on-line, looking at the G110 drawings.

What you need is:
1. K66 tranny
2. Tranny Pulley from G110: GY20605
3. Fan from G110: M140130
5. Tranny shaft lock-nut: 14M7400
4. Engine pulley from G110: GY20595
5. Adjustable motion actuator link: standard "service part" for L120: GY20792
6. Key stock, 1" washers, spacers, snap-ring, end-cap for 1" axles from G110: 24H1458, GX21387, M131389, 24H1452, M143338
7. 1" dia.-axle wheels from G110: GY20562
8. Tires for wheels (I used super-turfs from Carlisle)
9. Drive train belt for G110: GX21407
10. Belt guide (wire) mounted just ahead of the tranny for G110: GX21388
11. Belt guide bracket for engine pulley for G110: GX21396BLE
12. Frame reinforcement & sleeve-hitch link (left & right side): GX21419BLE, GX21420BLE
13. Tranny torque support brackets from G110: I personally did not buy them - instead I modified the ones from the L120. GX21404BLE, GX21403BLE
13. Misc. washers, bolts, nuts: metric sizes (but can be substituted for equivalent imperial sizes), various sizes lengths to accommodate all needs

Notes: JD sold me the engine pulley (half sheave), and it was the same as the one for the L120.... however, the G110 one is bigger. It was JD's screw-up at the warehouse... the 2 pulleys (L120 and G110) have different part numbers, but when you order one or the other, the same part shows-up. It took a few days for JD to figure out that someone put the L120 pulleys in the G110 tray in the warehouse... once that got straightened out, they had to "fabricate" some G110 pulleys because they thought they had some, whereas in reality they had none. It took 2 weeks. I had ordered it some time ago (when I was first starting to put together the retrofit kit)

The belt guide for the tranny pulley (comes with the tranny) needs to be be bent back a bit - it interferes with the pulley.

To install the belt, you need to take out the steering column shaft, Unbolt the gear off the bottom, take it off, and pull up on the shaft to slide it out part way - enough to get the old belt off, and the new one on.

Grease everywhere where there is metal-metal contact. That means: nuts, bolts, washers, spacer-tubes, wheel hubs, etc.

Disclaimer: if you break your tractor by attempting to follow these notes & instructions: it ain't my fault - so too bad. The instructions are "general". The work is intuitive. If you can't figure it out by yourself - and with the help of these instructions, then this undertaking is too-difficult for your mechanical skills, and therefore you should not do it.

Procedure:
0. Put 2 frosties in the fridge.
1. Jack up tractor and support it securely. If it falls on your head while you're working on it, don't blame me.
2. Take off rear wheels
3. Remove the belt-guide components at the tranny-end
4. Relieve the tension off the belt and take it off the tranny pulley
5. Disconnect the free-wheeling actuator shaft and completely remove it from the tractor. Same with the motion rod.
6. Disconnect the brake actuator, but don't remove it.
7. Disconnect the safety switch off the tranny
8. Unbolt & remove tranny torque-support brackets (front of tranny)
9. Support the tranny with a jack
10. Unbolt the 4 tranny-to-frame bolts at the shaft housing ends
11. Lower the tranny out of the tractor
12. Unbolt & remove the engine PTO clutch
13. Remove the engine pulley / half sheave
14. Remove the engine belt-guide
15. Remove the belt

now for re-assembly
16. Install new belt
17. Bolt on engine belt-guide
18. Install engine pulley, clutch etc
19. Route the belt on the engine pulley and through the tensioner etc.
20. Prepare the tranny: top of oil through diff-case-fill-hole & 1/2 way up the reservoir
21. Lift tranny up to the frame (use jack etc)
22. Place frame reinforements in place
23. Line up and start the 4 bolts that mount the tranny on the frame at the axle casings: note the original bolts are too short use longer ones & use lock-nuts or lock-washers. Do not tighten
24. Ensure everything fits without interferences, and tighten tranny on the 4 bolts
25. Install torque-straps. I actually modified one, and fabricated the other one from a section of steel. Buying the originals is easiest I guess
26. Tighten all tranny mounting bolts
27. Bolt the upper section of frame reinforcements to tractor frame
28. Connect brake linkage
29. Install new motion actuator rod (the adjustable one), and adjust for neutral
30. Install free-wheeling rod: note I had to modify it - it is too short. I straigtened out the back end of it, and drilled a hole through it and put in a spring-clip through the hole. I guess you can buy the original G110 one from JD
31. Put pulley on transmission input shaft (don't bolt down just yet)
32. Relieve the tension and install drive belt on pulley
33. Install fan, washer lock washer & nut & tighten.
34. Install belt-guide - the wire - (the one for just-ahead of the tranny)
25. I left the safety switch disconnected. No problem
26. Install washers & spacers on wheel-shafts
27. Install wheels, shaft-key, washer, spring-clip & cap
28. While jacked up, start the tractor, put a weight on the seat so you can see the drive belt run while not-in-the-seat. Inspect that nothing is rubbing, vibrating or otherwise wrong.
28. Purge the transmission: run it while jacked up... fwd, backwards, at various speeds. If it doesn't move at first... at 1/3 throttle - press the pedal and keep it pressed until it starts moving. It may be up to a minute.
29. Lower the tractor and do runs at full power. Fwd & back. with panic stops. Check brake action etc.
28. Crack the first frostie & drink it while looking at the pile of extra parts that you are sure belong somewhere, but you can't figure out where.
29. When you finish the 1'st frostie. Crack the 2'nd one.


I hope I didn't miss anything.....


Now: what should I call the thing?... L120K66?... or L120 SHD (super heavy duty)?.... or L120 Type R?....
There is an easy way to upgrade: Go to www.ebay.com and search for "John Deere K66 Upgrade"
 

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Hey Roger,

Have you approached Tuff Torq directly about the cost of getting another run of those K66's made? If they're selling well, a large purchase of them might be a wise investment. As time goes on, I imagine the need will increase not decrease for these kits...
 

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Thebanjoman, are still planning on changing the hubs and wheels to 12" bolt on ones?
 

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Thebanjoman, are still planning on changing the hubs and wheels to 12" bolt on ones?
Hubs are on order, Found a set of 8.5" rims to run my 23x10.50 HDAP tires and parts should be here soon. Will probably have to mow here in April if not before so I have to get moving.

May find a set of 7" rims too for the original turfs and run them in the summer and the HDAP for winter. Who knows.

I've already got too many projects. Frame off Restore of a '29 model A ford, A trail truck and now going 'mad scientist' with my mower.

One of these days I'll learn.
 

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Hubs are on order, Found a set of 8.5" rims to run my 23x10.50 HDAP tires and parts should be here soon. Will probably have to mow here in April if not before so I have to get moving.

May find a set of 7" rims too for the original turfs and run them in the summer and the HDAP for winter. Who knows.

I've already got too many projects. Frame off Restore of a '29 model A ford, A trail truck and now going 'mad scientist' with my mower.

One of these days I'll learn.
:duh: Should've learned.. "Good Shape" is a relative term when bidding on ebay.

My 8.5 rims arrived today to use with the hubs.

Both will require sandblasting and repaint. Expected.

One will require straightening.. Outer edge is bent in 3 places.:Disgus:
 

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Hey Roger,

Have you approached Tuff Torq directly about the cost of getting another run of those K66's made? If they're selling well, a large purchase of them might be a wise investment. As time goes on, I imagine the need will increase not decrease for these kits...
The K66's available today are one's that JD "surplus-ed" out awhile back. Believe me when I say JD has NO INTEREST in furthering the upgrade business. (In my opinion, their interest is in selling NEW tractors ... which is understandable.) I have talked to Tuff Torq and they will sell or build more K66's, but at the "normal price," whatever that is. I'm afraid if I bought a batch of new one's from TT, the kits would be priced well over $2000. I would have to have some pretty strong indications of interest before I would commit to that.
/roger
[email protected]
 

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Just curious.... Why buy 2 new pulley's and belts, why not just buy one new pulley that's the same diameter as the old one but fits the K66 and keep the engine pulley and drive belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
why not just buy one new pulley that's the same diameter as the old one but fits the K66

not enough belt contact area. Belt will slip under high torque conditions.

been there....
 

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I did the K66R upgrade to my JD L130 at about 300 hours a couple mowing seasons ago.

Current.
I just did my first fluid change on the tranny. I had about 175 hours on the K66 at the change. The oil that I drained still had a golden color to it and you could still see through it; nothing like the black poo that came out of my K46 when I started having problems with it.

I currently only use the machine for mowing and the climate is cool (MN) and terrain relatively flat...excepting the ditch. Mowing surface area is about .5 acers + a quick run over the kids 4-wheeler trails...two mowers wide, about a half mile of trails.

Procedure I used for the oil change on the K66R:

1. Block front tires.
2. Jack the back end up with a floor jack. I put a 2x4 under the frame aft of the center of gravity and slid a couple jack stands under the tail end on the edges of the transmission where the axel comes out. Try to keep it relatively level to assist the draining operation.
3. Remove rear wheels by removing the retainer clip, outer washer, and then the wheel. I don't have dust caps anymore, my washers are too big of a diameter.
4. Wipe down resevoir and filler cap with clean shop rag
5. Use air compressor and nozzel to blow all of the crud away
6. Wipe down resevoir and filler cap area with clean shop rag again
7. Remove the drain plug on the K66R and let it drain into an oil change pan.
8. Remove filler cap and resevoir cap. I found access to be best from the starboard side (right side when sitting on it) wheel well.
9. After draining is complete, replace drain plug
10. Fill filler cap until full. I did this with a long, flexible-nosed funnel from the port (left when you are sitting on it) side. It helps to move the deck adjustment lever up and down to get access.
11. Fill the resevoir to 3/4ish. I used the same funnel but went at it from the starboard side.
12. Replace filler and resevoir caps.
13. Burp and top off transmission as documented elsewhere to get the air out of it.
15. Reinstall the wheels.
16. Jack tractor up a bit, remove jack stands, and lower tractor to the ground.
17. Remove front wheel blocks
18 Take for joyride!

I used Mobil 1 5 or 10w-50 full synthetic.

A side note:
We pulled a couple dead trees out with it last weekend. It was great to hear the K66 roast the tires on the pavement before I added my considerable heft to that of my son and finished the job! More than enough power in this thing!

I am at 475ish hours and this is the machine's 8th mowing season. I look forward to 10+ more seasons with the L130K66R!

Thanks again Wally!

-Mrwebconnect
 

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I don't know Wally, but I agree call it fixed. If I was inclined, I would take your well documented procedure and try to do something with mine, but alas I am not that mechanically inclinded nor can I bring myself to spend anymore money on my L120. My tranny is going south on me too after just over 200 and some odd hours in 5 years, If I can get through the summer with it, I'll move up to a better model JD next spring :coffee:
Do we hear a new X700?? (series)
 

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GOOD NEWS! Help is on the way: We have made arrangements with Tuff Torq to build more K66r's for us. We expect to have the K66 Upgrade Kits available for sale in mid-July. Price remains the same. Now taking reservations.
www.JD-K66-Upgrade.com

Well that will be good news for some folks looking to upgrade to a stronger tranny :thanku:.
 

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Two questions here, sorry about the ignorance for one of them...

1. Is the K66 a posi rear?
2. Without the official "kit," what do you folks guesstimate the parts would cost (minus the trans, which I know is variable)?
 
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