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What should I call the L120 with K66 tranny?

  • L120K66

    Votes: 4 30.8%
  • L120SHD

    Votes: 1 7.7%
  • L120 Type R

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • L120GT

    Votes: 3 23.1%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .
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21 - 40 of 80 Posts

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I assume you mean the drive sheave on the motor shaft. You can use either a pipe wrench or a Visegrip pliers to grab the top of the shaft. There is room to do this. Use the same technique to reinstall the sheave.
 

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5/9/09: Don't lose faith, I have the upgrade kit about ready, complete with photos, detailed instruction manual and pricing. I will be offering full kits for those that want an easy path to upgrade or a simple ala-carte plan, where you can buy just the parts you want.

For everyone that has written to me, I will be sending you an update and ordering info very soon. Thank you for you interest!

[email protected]

Ps: My converted L130 is really running great. It's like a brand new tractor, but much stronger. It was well worth the weekend it took to make the change.
(July 25, 2009) UPDATE: I have a couple of eBay listings for different upgrade paths. You can obtain just the K66 or a full upgrade kit with everything you need, including larger wheels and tires.
 

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I am new to this site, but I have been following the L120-K66 conversion for awhile. I have the transmission and parts from the list wally2q posted. I'm going to begin in the morning. One question. What kind of fluid do I top off the K66 with? Thank you, this is a great site!
 

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Any recommendations on how to get the sheave off of the engine if it is stuck? Tried a pry bar between the sheave and engine and it still doesnt come off?

Anyone else have this problem?

:thanku:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Any recommendations on how to get the sheave off of the engine if it is stuck?

after you take the bolt out of it, give it a spray of penetrating oil, and then maybe 30-60 minutes later a few taps with a hammer to break it free... (don't go too hard - don't want to damage the engine which it's directly connected to).... it's just slightly rusted on, but should come off easily once you break it free. If I recall, it's keyed, so attempting to spin it off will not work.

good luck....
 

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I just wanted to apologize to the forum for disappearing after my K66 upgrade. I would like to thank the community for their help and am willing to provide mine in return. I moved from TX to MN in the last 6 months (along with 10000 other life changes). I am now looking at turning my L130 into a snow machine. I am sure the K66 will serve this purpose well after I find a way to hook up the blower I found in the woods by my new place or break down and actually buy one made for it! Time to research something called a "mule drive"!
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
TX to MN?... oh man... the chili just won't be the same in -28 deg F weather!

Some advice from a Canadian, on making sure your frosties don't go solid on you in the middle of blowing snow in Feb... get this brand:

 

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Wally2g: I bought my son a JD x300 but purchased a Craftsman DGS6000 for me because I wanted the added power of a Garden Tractor with the TuffTorq k66. Nearing the end of its second season, the K66 is squeling like a stuck pig and is scheduled to be replaced by Sears.
Don't let your new k66 conversion overheat would be my 2 cents, give it a rest after an hour or so of a hard workout (beyond mowing).
 

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Wally2g: I bought my son a JD x300 but purchased a Craftsman DGS6000 for me because I wanted the added power of a Garden Tractor with the TuffTorq k66. Nearing the end of its second season, the K66 is squeling like a stuck pig and is scheduled to be replaced by Sears.
Don't let your new k66 conversion overheat would be my 2 cents, give it a rest after an hour or so of a hard workout (beyond mowing).
How many hours did you get out of it? I just serviced mine and went with the TT recommended synthetic oil-5w50. I only have just under 40 hours. This is in my Simplicity Conquest.
They do get hot, TT said to keep them under 190 degrees F.

MU
 

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Discussion Starter #34
the K66 is squeling like a stuck pig

... yea.... I actually upgraded from the L120 Type R, to a 2305.... the neighbour that drives the L120 Type R only mows and pushes snow - no ground engagement duty - I think it's probably fine for them....

...now back to the squealing pig..... are you sure it's not your belt slipping?... I had exactly that problem with mine when pushing snow... then I added a 2'nd spring to the belt tensioner - problem gone.
 

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Don't let your new k66 conversion overheat would be my 2 cents, give it a rest after an hour or so of a hard workout (beyond mowing).

I had my LA130 with the K46 stop going up the hills after 90 hours, unfortunately it is 5 months past the 2 year warranty. I am getting ready to do the upgrade to the K66 to fix the issue, but wonder if there is anything else I should do besides run the 5W-50 Synthetic oil.

I am not real worried about cutting the lawn with the K66 that won't build up much heat, but I would like to tow around an aerator and de-thacher, most likely what lead to the early demise of the K46. I would like to ensure that doesn't happen again with the K66.

I am wondering if anyone has hooked up a temperature gauge to the transmission to keep an eye on the temperature to ensure not overheating it. I was thinking one of those digital grill thermometers would work nicely and show a range that is appropriate, I am worried that the cord from the sensor to the gauge may not hold up to the task for very long, but otherwise think it may work well.

Anyone have any good ideas on how to install a digital thermometer or a different thermometer to that hold up in that environment, and keep an eye on the transmission temps. I think that would help me ensure a long life.:praying:

-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #36
aerator and dethatcher are both pretty light loads for the K66. I wouldn't sweat it.

Best thing to do for a temp gauge is to use an automotive temp sender and a gauge... typically not digital, but good enough to keep an eye on things...
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Old Tires on New Rims - - -

I'm almost ready to do the K66 conversion on my L120(just waiting on one part and the pair of new rims) and wonder if anyone has actually used their old 22x9.5 tires on the 10.5 rims? If so, how'd it go. Any trouble setting the bead on the wider rims? If it was, how'd you buck the tires to take up the slack? Did the 22" tires have a close to normal look once mounted and inflated?

Reason I'm asking all the questions is I'm consider just reusing the one's that are currently on the L120. They only have 200 hrs on them and the tread looks healthy. Yes, I know I'll be giving up a little traction, but just think of the 4% torque gain... :)

I've changed many a tire working as a youth in my father's auto service station, but never anything as small as 12" and as wide as 10"!!! This should be a test of my patience.

Paul
 

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I went with new 23x9.5 tires on 10.5 rims because I was concerned about the clearance between the tires and the mower deck gauge wheels. Had no trouble getting them to take air, but it took 80 psi to get the beads to seat properly. They look normal when inflated to the proper pressure.
 

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80 psi!! Just curious, did you lube the bead and rim before setting the bead? We used to use Ruglyde liquid, but recently I've been using kids bubble blowing solution. Seems to work OK.
 

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I used dish washing liquid. I had trouble with a 4" area on one side of each tire bead that wouldn't pop out completely. I put the wheel outside and around the corner from my garage door, hitched the air hose up and slowly turned the air regulator up until the bead popped.
 
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