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Is the john deere L118 just a mower with a pot metal trans etc?

Or is it really a good machine.

One is for sale locally for $600.

KRS
 

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Is the john deere L118 just a mower with a pot metal trans etc?

Or is it really a good machine.

One is for sale locally for $600.

KRS
The L118 was an entry-level model in 2004-2005 and thus has a lighter-duty transmission (the T40/K46). I believe it's equivalent to the D130 or D140 currently on the market.
 

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I would pass up any L series and find a nice used older GT, 318, 400, 140, 317 etc. A 40 year old 140 will run circles around any L series.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Very good guys, thank you.

I appreciate the experience on this forum!

KRS
 

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I have an l118. trans went out at 450 hours, i rebuilt it, trans is "ok" now.

briggs intek engine is a cheap engine, never ran right from the get go. i wouldnt pay 600 for on IMO.

ill pry be lucky to get a couple hundred out of mine with the rebuild trans
 

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The L118 Started with a K46 and Halfway though Production it was Changed to a T40J so depending on the Serial Number it will depend On what Transaxle is in it. The L118 was Only made in 2005 Just Keep In Mind the X300,X300R and 2007 & After X304’s Have the K46. But It is a Standard Lawn Tractor for Mowing the Lawn & Occasional Snow Removal If You Go Buy Blue Book It is Price right for Good-Average Condition which would Be from $500 Low To $640 High which is what a dealer would Probably Give You if You were trading it In eBay, CL & Private sale the Price Is Usually Higher Than Blue Book. But I Tend to agree with Most I would Be Leary of Buying One Use in general If You Need Just a Lawn Tractor I would Look for a Used LT100 series Such as a LT150,LT160, LT170 ect or Even a LX100 series or LX200 series The LT100 series used the K46 as Well In there Hydrostatic Models The LX200 used the K62 Trans which you will also Find In the 190C which is a top of the Line entry Level 100 series Model as well:thThumbsU
 

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If clean an low hours (they have an hour meter), it might be worth $500. They were $1,899 new. They are a pretty good little tractor. There are tens of thousands out there and with that perspective, complaints are actually few.
 

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I've had a L118 for about 8 years and it's been pretty good even though I've treated it like a real tractor sometimes. It has about 580 hours on it, cutting my two acres.

I've replaced both blade spindles with greasable units after the originals failed. Also replaced the front wheel bearings with the upgraded parts.

I found this site yesterday after the mower suddenly started making a heck of a rattling racket and had some burn't rubber smells. Quiet if the brake is pushed...

Thought it might have been the transmission, but it turned out to be simultaneous drive idler failures! The "V" one's bearing failed and the belt melted through the plastic wheel to the bearing, and the flat idler would barely turn at all. Not easy to get to them, but at least it's a lot cheaper parts than what I was afraid of.
 

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XMSN oil changed out today, belt and drive wheels on tomorrow.
 

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Now what?!

Put on the new drive pullies & belt, changed the xmsn fluid (lots less whiny now), put on sharp blades, a few shots of grease in the spindles and away I go. Mowed for about an hour and a half, shut down to refuel. Won't start after refueling. Lights work, but nothing else. On the charger now. ***?!?!
 

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Now what?!

Put on the new drive pullies & belt, changed the xmsn fluid (lots less whiny now), put on sharp blades, a few shots of grease in the spindles and away I go. Mowed for about an hour and a half, shut down to refuel. Won't start after refueling. Lights work, but nothing else. On the charger now. ***?!?!
Did the engine crank when trying to restart it? Were you able to start it after the engine cooled off?

Next time, you may want to play around with the choke a little. Normally when the engine is warm, you put the throttle in the halfway position to restart it. If you're having problems restarting it, you may want to put it into the choke position to see if that helps.
 

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It was the brake interlock switch. It works but it won't stay in the mounting hole.

This mower has been pretty good, over 590 hours/9 years.

Regular oil/filter changes-at least annual, plugs, air & gas filters, battery as needed
Both deck spindles replaced
Replaced deck belt twice
Replaced drive belt twice
Replaced both drive idler pullys
Replaced steering sector gear and shaft gear
Updated/replaced front wheel bearings
Changed transmission fluid (lots of fun)
Transmission fan on order...
 

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Update...Mower is now at almost 900 hours, almost 14 years;

since previous list,

replaced deck belt once
had crack in deck welded/repaired
replaced both blade spindles again
replaced front wheel bearings again
replaced both steering arms (new ones are adjustable for toe-in/alignment!!!)
replaced steering sector gear and shaft gear twice...seems to be a weak point
bypassed the reverse "safety" button, just got sick and tired of the thing
replaced both front tires, they wore bald
repaired the deck after my grandson smashed it into a stump he'd mowed around dozens of times in the past.

When this thing does die, I'll be looking for a good welded deck ZT...
 

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Well "old greeny" bought in 2004 is just shy of 1000 hours and still running well. The engine and transmission are doing fine.

I recently bought an Ariens Ikon-X 52" zero turn with the Kawasaki engine. Not surprising, it takes less than half the time to cut the yard now. I'm keeping the L118 to pull my yard dump trailer and cut some of the more wet/steep areas though. Much better on the wet and steep areas than any ZT.
 

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Recently the L118 has been "hard to start". Turn the key, click,...wait... finally the starter starts turning and eventually the engine would start. Sometimes after a lo-oooooooong crank time.
Yesterday I adjusted the valves. They were WAY loose, more than double the spec setting. After replacing the valve covers and letting the sealant cure I cranked it up this afternoon.
Freaking magic! Started immediately and runs much better now. Go figure.
Also did some green paint touch up.
Looking forward to the 1000 hour mark.
 

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"But I Tend to agree with Most I would Be Leary of Buying One Use in general If You Need Just a Lawn Tractor I would Look for a Used LT100 series Such as a LT150,LT160, LT170 ect or Even a LX100 series or LX200 series"

I would agree with Sergeant on this. Had an LT150 for 17 years with 1300 hours and had to do nothing but regular maintenance.
60DRB gives a lot of good reasons to avoid that used L118.

Both deck spindles replaced
Replaced deck belt twice
Replaced drive belt twice
Replaced both drive idler pullys
Replaced steering sector gear and shaft gear
Updated/replaced front wheel bearings
Transmission fan on order...
replaced deck belt once
had crack in deck welded/repaired
replaced both blade spindles again
replaced front wheel bearings again
replaced both steering arms (new ones are adjustable for toe-in/alignment!!!)
replaced steering sector gear and shaft gear twice...seems to be a weak point
 

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I know the OP decided long ago...
I would not buy [recommend] this mower used either, knowing what I know now!
When I bought it new it was my first riding mower and I was in a bit of a hurry (about to be going overseas).
Over all, it has been a good learning experience tool. What to avoid, how to trouble-shoot and repair, etc.
The biggest problem areas on this model are the steering gears (poor design/materials) and the spindles, which have grease fittings...but the internal bearings are sealed (how stupid is that?).
The B&S V-twin engine has been very reliable for me, even though I let the valve adjustment get out of whack for a while.
Even the "weak" hydrostatic transmission is doing OK, with only a single fluid/oil change.
 
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