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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a "used" John Deere L110 with the 17.5hp Kohler engine that has 180 hours. It seemed to run fine for about 5 hours over 3 uses but then stalled in the middle of the last run.

If I Disengage the PTO the engine can still get the tractor around the yard ... maybe a little sluggish but I don't have a lot of experience to compare.

After cooling down the L110 works as expected for about 5 minutes before stalling again unless the PTO is dis-engaged.

I would like to get through the leaf season before doing maintenance but maybe that was a backwards thought process on my part.

The problem I suspect is related to heat or vibration or load?

I am thinking the possible issues are:
1) Voltage Regulator failing with heat-up
- I will look elsewhere first but may buy a replacement and try
2) battery terminal needs cleaning
- easy to test with bypass to solenoid
3) fuel line blockage limiting fuel feed
- I saw a reference to the IV gas tank to isolate part of that path ... Not sure I have the bits to come up with a bespoke solution

I currently don't have a good meter (any recommendations?) so I'll need to do that ASAP.

things like changing the oil and the air filter were on my list for end of season but I could accelerate.

Anyone recognize the symptoms or otherwise have advice?
 

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Sounds like the gas cap vent could be clogged. Remove the cap and blow some air through the vent hole. Could also be some trash in the tank clogging up the fuel pickup tube. May be the fuel filter or the fuel pump.

It's almost certain to not be electrical.
 

· L120/G110 Hybridizer
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I second rayjay's suggestion to check the gas cap vent. You're describing exactly what happens when the vent is clogged and the engine draws fuel from the tank until the vacuum buildup in the tank equals the draw that the pump can supply. On mine it will eventually kill the engine.

Next time it happens, loosen the tank cap and see if the problem goes away. If so, just clean the cap. I posted a thread on cleaning the L series caps some years back. Just do a search.

HTH,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Checking the compression and spark is a little advanced for me, so I will defer that advice for now.

I used compressed air on the cap (and could feel it go through), but no difference in perfroamnce.
I opened the cap to remove vacuum and retried but the engine stalled as soon as the PTO engaged.
I ran with the gas cap loose and still no difference.
I replaced the fuel filter but still no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For what its worth, I added a picture of the new fuel filter installed in my User Control Panel (I wasn't sure how to insert inline)

anyway, not much fuel in it at all.

Is that a fuel pump right after the filter?
 

· L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Yes, the line out of the filter leads into the pump. The pump outlet line leads to the carb. As for the level in the filter, I rarely see mine over quarter full. If you start it cold and let it run for a few minutes, but not enough to heat up, it will sometimes fill the filter 3/4 full, but never higher. Usually when i've run it for an hour (typical) you can't see any fuel at all in the filter, but on cooling a little will appear. I'm sure it has to do with heat and placement of the filter in the fuel stream.

It looks like you have a mechanical pump (engine driven). On my L120 it's a pressure/vacuum operated pump and sometimes the little hose leading to the valve cover cracks and kills the pump. Not an issue in your case. You could pull the pump outlet hose and see what your fuel delivery volume is at cranking speed. The specs should be in the L series manual here on MTF.

HTH,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Paul,

I downloaded the manual (thanks for that tip) and it states that the fuel should flow freely.

I would say I observed the fuel flowing freely .... a few ounces in a few seconds.

I think it is time to sleep on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When reviewing the L Series Technical Manual for Fuel flow rates and looking at the "Fuel Flow Test" on page 71 right there on the same page is the "Fuel Shutoff Solenoid Test" ... which mentions
"If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking engine or while engine is running, the solenoid will not function."

I am wondering if perhaps an electrical problem (failing Voltage regulator or bad wire connection) could cause the voltage at the solenoid to fluctuate.

I am going to get a new meter (my meter was "loaned" to a neighbor and not returned working) and see what the voltage at the solenoid looks like.

I was reduced to using the leaf blower this past weekend. I am traveling with business this week so there will be no new updates ...I would hate to over winter the mower with this issue still unresolved but this could turn into a spring project.
 

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Does it have a electronic carb needle aka anti backfire needle. If your battery gets to low it will fault out and cause it shut off the gas. Sometimes they fail when hot too. Other then that sounds like your coil is faulting when hot. Had one do it on another tractor. Ran good till coil got hot and bam died.
 

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Or the voltage regulator on side of motor could be getting bad connection or faulting out. If you have a voltage meter i would check the strator for charging amps and see if it dies out while running. Lots of things could cause this. Just a matter of checks and making sure everything is good. You take your time you will find it.
 

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I second rayjay's suggestion to check the gas cap vent. You're describing exactly what happens when the vent is clogged and the engine draws fuel from the tank until the vacuum buildup in the tank equals the draw that the pump can supply. On mine it will eventually kill the engine.

Next time it happens, loosen the tank cap and see if the problem goes away. If so, just clean the cap. I posted a thread on cleaning the L series caps some years back. Just do a search.

HTH,
Paul
http://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/157275-clogged-cap-syndrome.html
 
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