[dansmail26]

I have the infamous problem of my tractor trying to do wheelies when letting the clutch out! Seriously, it is very difficult to start smoothly, I even hate mowing in small areas due tothe lack of control.
I can't find any info on adjusting the clutch, is it possible to fix or not?

 

[dansmail26]

Anybody with ideas on this? I tried greasing up the linkage today without any luck.

 

[davidg]

download the service manual at http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=23974 the gear tranny troubleshooting starts at about page 289. If yours is not a 2002 model, don't worry as the majority of it is the same across all model years of the L1xx line.

 

[dansmail26]

Thanks. Doesn't look like any simple fixes for it!

 

[ryanpf]

Refer to davidg's post. It's important to read the description on pg 288 of how the clutch and brake interrelate. If it's set too aggressive, the brake will be held ON right up to the point the drive belt pops the tranny into life.

That's the same tension plate assy. that used on the hydro model L series, except it doesn't get used as much on them. On yours, it moving every time you depress the clutch/brake pedal. It could be binding or just set up too close to the brake engagement setting.

All the setup data is in there, just takes a bit of going over to get it right...

HTH,
Paul

 

[dansmail26]

Thanks!

 

[dansmail26]

I found an eaasy fix for the brake adjustment, wonder if that would help move the brake/clutch switchover point a little -
http://www.thenorth.com/apblog4.nsf/0/85010A375718D7CA8525759E0000C09E

 

[dansmail26]

That brake adjustment didn't help the clutch jump.

 

[blkwtr]

I have the infamous problem of my tractor trying to do wheelies when letting the clutch out! Seriously, it is very difficult to start smoothly, I even hate mowing in small areas due tothe lack of control.
I can't find any info on adjusting the clutch, is it possible to fix or not?

Dansmail,
Your problem is not so much with the clutch as it is with understanding the nature of the L100.

First of all, the L100 (as you know) has a 5 speed gear driven transmission. That's a positive gear to gear engagement. There is no hydro fluid pumping around to take up the slack when you let the clutch out. It may make starting out slowly a little difficult, but that manual transmission is what makes the L100 so durable and tough. No other (except for the L100's brother, the D100) John Deere lawn tractor made today has a manual transmission.

Secondly, the L100 is a relative light machine with low gear ratios so it takes off when you let out on the clutch.

Thirdly, you are probably running the machine at Wide-Open-Throttle when you let out on the clutch.

Now as an analogy, say you were in a Corvette with a manual transmission and a high ratio rear end, you have the engine screaming a WOT, put it in gear and let out on the clutch and see what happens. Maybe a wheelie but definately a wild ride.

You need to let out the clutch slowly, at least until the machine starts to roll. If you can't teach yourself to do that then reduce the throttle to about half, maybe even with the mower engaged, before you let out on the clutch. This will help you understand how the machine can take off slowly. Then immediately move to WOT. The air cooled engine in the L100 is made to run at WOT.

Dennis

 

[blkwtr]

I have the infamous problem of my tractor trying to do wheelies when letting the clutch out! Seriously, it is very difficult to start smoothly, I even hate mowing in small areas due tothe lack of control.
I can't find any info on adjusting the clutch, is it possible to fix or not?

Here is another solution to your clutch problem:

Your L100 is a very light weight tractor. The rear wheels only weigh 15 lbs. each. You can load your rear wheels with an antifreeze solution and get them up to 50 lbs. each. The cost is minimal but you have to make sure you add enough antifreeze to so the wheels don't freeze in cold weather. I live in Florida and store my tractor inside. I used 1/2 gallon of antifreeze and three gallons of water in each wheel. You will be amazed how this will aid in providing a smooth start when letting the clutch out. Please try this and let us know how it works. I also have front wheel weights (35 lbs. each) but these are somewhat expensive, so try loading your rear wheels first and let us know out this works out.

Dennis

 

[dansmail26]

Thanks for the advice, but is this really true? has anyone else tried this?

The tractor is pretty lightweight, I am surprised how much it will 'skid' when you turn the front wheels it tend to push through and keep going straight.

This is a pretty drastic thing to do, I would hate to experiment with this one.

Let me know!

 

[dansmail26]

Dansmail,
Your problem is not so much with the clutch as it is with understanding the nature of the L100.

First of all, the L100 (as you know) has a 5 speed gear driven transmission. That's a positive gear to gear engagement. There is no hydro fluid pumping around to take up the slack when you let the clutch out. It may make starting out slowly a little difficult, but that manual transmission is what makes the L100 so durable and tough. No other (except for the L100's brother, the D100) John Deere lawn tractor made today has a manual transmission.

Secondly, the L100 is a relative light machine with low gear ratios so it takes off when you let out on the clutch.

Thirdly, you are probably running the machine at Wide-Open-Throttle when you let out on the clutch.

Now as an analogy, say you were in a Corvette with a manual transmission and a high ratio rear end, you have the engine screaming a WOT, put it in gear and let out on the clutch and see what happens. Maybe a wheelie but definately a wild ride.

You need to let out the clutch slowly, at least until the machine starts to roll. If you can't teach yourself to do that then reduce the throttle to about half, maybe even with the mower engaged, before you let out on the clutch. This will help you understand how the machine can take off slowly. Then immediately move to WOT. The air cooled engine in the L100 is made to run at WOT.

Dennis

Thanks Dennis -
the problem is I do let the clutch out slowly it doesn't help - you can't let it out slow enough.
And to do a good job cutting, you have to keep the engine rev's up, so you really can't clutch/gas it like a car. A good example is when mowing in tight quarters around flower beds, I really want to brake/clutch at times but just can't.
Thanks

 

[Displaced Hokie]

New belt? They usually get smoother after the belt glazes over some. New they are "grabby".


Sent from the MTF Free App

 

[dansmail26]

No, it's an older belt.

 

[dansmail26]

Here is another solution to your clutch problem:

Your L100 is a very light weight tractor. The rear wheels only weigh 15 lbs. each. You can load your rear wheels with an antifreeze solution and get them up to 50 lbs. each. The cost is minimal but you have to make sure you add enough antifreeze to so the wheels don't freeze in cold weather. I live in Florida and store my tractor inside. I used 1/2 gallon of antifreeze and three gallons of water in each wheel. You will be amazed how this will aid in providing a smooth start when letting the clutch out. Please try this and let us know how it works. I also have front wheel weights (35 lbs. each) but these are somewhat expensive, so try loading your rear wheels first and let us know out this works out.

Dennis

Has anybody else tried loading their tires to solve this problem?

Would it be the same if I just added about 100 lbs of weight on the tractor to see if it works, or do you think the weight has to be in the tires? Could I even hook up a loaded cart?

 

[Mower_Man42]

Are the brakes adjusted correctly or are they worn out? There isn't much of a brake pad or puck. Has this tractor always behaved like this? When in a tight area you always use first gear, I know for fact you have to shift into first. I knocked the hood off my S1742 Scott's lawn tractor, and it wasn't in first gear, I was always adjusting the brake on that tractor. Not much difference between the Scott's and the L series, just color of the paint.

 

[dansmail26]

The brakes seemed to be working fine. I have tried loosening them way up to make sure they weren't grabbing.
I just bought the tractor used so I am not sure if it always did it.

Interesting, the users manual said if the front end lifts more than 6" in 5th gear replace the belt! Maybe it is drive belt related.

 

[Displaced Hokie]

Loaded tires are not approved ballast, so no don't do it. You reduce wheel slippage and it will be worse.

Honestly, that belt system is optimized for the hydros. The gear drive engagement isn't great. But it is less expensive than a hydro, which is what an L100 is supposed to be. The L108 would get you a hydro for $200 more. It's an open space machine, or for someone who balances the lower cost for the jerky nature.

I think you are trying to solve something that is just the nature of the machine.


Sent from the MTF Free App

 

[dansmail26]

I did find by loosening the 'brake nut' the clutch now engages very 'high', right at the end of the peddle travel as I let off it.

 

[Jdmower]

I have the infamous problem of my tractor trying to do wheelies when letting the clutch out! Seriously, it is very difficult to start smoothly, I even hate mowing in small areas due tothe lack of control.
I can't find any info on adjusting the clutch, is it possible to fix or not?

I have the infamous problem of my tractor trying to do wheelies when letting the clutch out! Seriously, it is very difficult to start smoothly, I even hate mowing in small areas due tothe lack of control.
I can't find any info on adjusting the clutch, is it possible to fix or not?

Thanks Dennis -
the problem is I do let the clutch out slowly it doesn't help - you can't let it out slow enough.
And to do a good job cutting, you have to keep the engine rev's up, so you really can't clutch/gas it like a car. A good example is when mowing in tight quarters around flower beds, I really want to brake/clutch at times but just can't.
Thanks