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Discussion Starter #1
Is it the time of year or what? I am seeing a lot of ads on CL for cheap riding mowers and in their description they say the battery needs replacing. On a few mowers I have had I have installed car batteries if they will fit. New riding mower batteries I have bought have gone bad within a year. What kind of L&G battery do you buy if you can't fit a car battery in there?
 

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I buy the good ones from walmart I have had one in my case for 3 years now and it normally only gets used in the winter sits all summer and starts every time I am very pleased with there batteries I have a few
 

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I buy the good ones from walmart I have had one in my case for 3 years now and it normally only gets used in the winter sits all summer and starts every time I am very pleased with there batteries I have a few
i have 3 of those wallyworld energizer batts going right now and have has no problems with them. 2 of them are over 3-4 years old (can't quite remember off hand) and i just bought the third for another tractor i'm working on. it's the people doing the damage to them by not pulling them out over the winter months when they aren't using the tractor. leaving a battery out in the cold and not using it is very bad for them.
 

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Have had very bad luck with l&g batteries, seldom last more than 2 years .Have installed car batteries in everything ,they will fit in .A local auto recycler sells used car batteries for 15.00 dollars , much cheaper than a l&g battery.
 

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Some will use a trickle charger year round others only in the off season if its only used for mowing , either way it will help keep the battery healthy longer .
 

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I have a Diehard battery in Wheelhorse Commando 8 and the date on the top says its from 2000, I got it from a coworker he said it had set for about five years, we charged it up and so far it has lasted for two years, go figure.:fing32:
 

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I buy the largest battery that will fit. The OM betteries that come with most new mowers are the cheapest thing they can put in there and will only last about a year. Same with those $19.95 Batts they sell
 

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NAPA $24 batteries in all but one of my machines. One Sears 'el cheapo'. No problems with any of them (knock on wood), but I do start up and use each machine atleast once a week. The plow and blower machines haven't been used since winter, but they did start today.
I bring in the battery out of the antique, though. Had one freeze solid out there a couple years back. Not a pretty site.
 

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1) A cheapa$$ L&G battery may not be truly made to stand up to tractor vibration.

2) A random L&G owner may not run the tractor enough to keep the battery charged. What is the output of a L&G alternator?

I have a neighbor that has a big Craftsman he uses just to mow less grass than the area of my driveway.

3) Not only is a car battery a good idea, but gelled electrolyte batteries or AGMs (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries might mitigate any vibration issues. I installed a slightly oversized AGM in place of the wet cell motorcycle style battery on my Kawasaki Mule.

One other thing to keep in mind. "Everything is a system." The mfr engineered the alternator and battery as a package. If you install a much larger battery, and regularly overdraft it with recharging it from an external charger, you may experience shorter alternator life.

Same thing goes for the starter. The current draw it has and the current the battery supplies are fairly closely matched.

In the 70s I owned a decommissioned 69 Pontiac Bonneville Superior ambulance. In those less enlightened days, they just added a second battery in parallel with the first to carry the added load of the inside and outside lights, radios, siren, etc.

The doubled available current from the paralleled batteries ate up a lot of starter solenoids.

(That car had the High Output 428 c.i. police engine in it and would flat get up and go if I put my foot in it. Of course, at the same time, the fuel consumption sucked a dent in the gas tank, and the 4 barrel sucked a dent in the hood. ;) )
 

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(That car had the High Output 428 c.i. police engine in it and would flat get up and go if I put my foot in it. Of course, at the same time, the fuel consumption sucked a dent in the gas tank, and the 4 barrel sucked a dent in the hood. )

Of course if you still had that beast Sloweather It would also Suck a Dent In your Wallet/bank account !:Stop::Stop::Stop::thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter #11
In the early 90s I worked at a Napa store. Batteries came in by semi. Driver told me that there were only 3 plants in the US manufacturing car batteries. When they brought in the old batteries, everything was recycled: plastic casing, lead and fluid. Also said battery acid leaked onto cardboard can start on fire. I hope they still make them all here and not in China or other foreign countries.
 

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All of my tractors have the $25 Walmart U1 batteries. They all stay connected and I have no problems with any of them. One is three years old, one is a year old, and I just picked up one for the third tractor. In the off season, I’ll remove the one from my 111 since it hibernates in the shed. I’ll rotate the battery tender on each battery for a week. I just need to pick up two more tenders.
 

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I buy a Walmart car battery that will fit. If I need to I will modify the battery box/battery tray to make it fit. Just replaced the Walmart battery in the GMC Envoy that was 7 years two month old.
 

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The OEM on my Cub Cadet GT lasted five years with me not paying it no never mind in the winter where it went 4-5 months w/o use. I bought a Duracell from Batteries + Bulbs as a replacement. So far so good. Just bought another battery tender to plug in over the winter since it's proven that I won't rotate the one charger I have between equipment. The new battery maintainers really do have electronics that extend the life of the battery.
 
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