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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm looking at having to rebuild this 14 hp Kohler this winter, its still using oil, and smoking a little at start up. Couple questions:

Should I bore it out? Assuming it isn't necessary when I get into it.

I already heard on here that ebay parts are ok, are there any to stay away from, or should I just buy the parts from Brian here?

Anything else I should replace at that time, mounts etc....?

Are there any other donors if I ran across a great deal on C'list? I see some older Deere's with 14 hp Kohler, or any other tractors have a 14 hp Kohler that is the same?
 

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I just rebuild a 14HP Kohler. More than likely, the bore is worn in an oval shape and is out of spec, so it will need to be bored. Mine was worn at least .010 over, so I went to a .020 overbore just to be safe. I also found my crank to be worn out of spec, so it was ground .010 under.
My 444 was just purchased and very worn out, so it took new motor mounts from McMaster, and I had to helicoil two of the bolt holes in then engine pan. I also had to use several parts from a less worn out doner tractor in order to make the 444 my main mowing tractor.
 

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so how much did you spend on your engine job? did you do the labor, and pay for machining?
 

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I wouldn't count on not having to bore that block 20 thou. Rarely are the bores still round top to bottom after many hours of use. There's also the issue of bore taper.

Stick with the engine you have. It's spec'd for your tractor. 4 new mounts are a good idea. McMaster-Carr has them.
 

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ok, so I'll plan on machining as well. How much of a difference in power do you get 20 over? noticeable? Obviously I would anticipate more power from a fresh engine anyway, just curious on the over bore.
 

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I rebuilt the K-301 in my Cub Cadet 125 about 6 weeks ago. I got my parts from a highly rated ebay seller. The quality of the parts was OK but I'm wondering if I should have spent just slightly more and gotten Sten or Kohler parts.

My block still was in spec so I just de glazed it. My chinese rings aren't fully seated yet after 8-10 of run time. The gasket set was ok quality but the head gasket didn't have the rolled edge like the genuine Kohler does. You can see fibers where the Kohler gasket is a sheetmetal ring at the cylinder bore..

I reused the original valves by having them reground and recutting the seats in the block.

It's very important to torque the head down in the proper sequence, then run it 15-30 minutes and retorque it again after it cools. It's also highly recommended to retorque again after 5 hours of run time.

Here's a link to Kohler
http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf

I'll assume you have a K-321 Kohler, here's the K series info
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/serieslanding.htm?series=K-Series
There are links for both operator and service manuals there.

Good luck and make sure you have a decent INCH pound torque wrench
Jeff
 

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ok, so I'll plan on machining as well. How much of a difference in power do you get 20 over? noticeable? Obviously I would anticipate more power from a fresh engine anyway, just curious on the over bore.
Don't look now, but that's a one-lung engine under the hood, not a V-8. If you expect a noticeable increase with a mere 20 thou overbore, then that would be a mistake. If you do the rebuild properly, then I think you'll be very happy with the power that any good running 321 is capable of making.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thats what i figured, i just didn't know if being one cylinder boring it made much difference. I'm pretty happy with how it runs now, so I can't wait to have it refreshed.
 

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You're going to be more than surprised with the power of the 321 after the break in period. Your main concern is a proper rebuild. Take your time and pay attention, or you'll end up doing it over again.

If more power is what you want; Machining the head down to bump compression is safer and more effective than cylinder boring... and will leave as much block material as possible to make sleeve warping less likely.
 

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Ya, I'm not concerned about squeaking out more power from it, like I said, it does great now, and I'm sure its not up to par. I think I'll notice more improvement from just having a non worn engine anyway.

I figure I might as well do it this winter before the engine gets too far gone. I'm sure I could use it for quite a while the way it is, but I love this tractor too much to do that.
 

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Don't look now, but that's a one-lung engine under the hood, not a V-8. If you expect a noticeable increase with a mere 20 thou overbore, then that would be a mistake. If you do the rebuild properly, then I think you'll be very happy with the power that any good running 321 is capable of making.

Hold on now, the O.P. is gaining .34543925 c.i.d., mutiply that by the stock specific output of .48176 hp per c.i. and he stands to gain .166156159 HP !
I think traction may become a problem.
 

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9 times out of ten you will need to bore it. Not a big deal realy. I had my 10hp JD engine bored, seats ground, head miled, and a broken stud removed and it cost me a tick over $100. I thought that was pretty fair. As for a doner... I would stick with what you have. There are a lot of small diferences between them, that you might have to change a lot to make it work. You have a good core right now. As for HP.... Na... that 20 over is not going to make a big diference. As you said, the health of the engine is going to be the change that you feel.
 

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Hold on now, the O.P. is gaining .34543925 c.i.d., mutiply that by the stock specific output of .48176 hp per c.i. and he stands to gain .166156159 HP !
I think traction may become a problem.
I hope you didn't rely on a calculator to figure that out. :fing20::fing32::fing32:
 

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here is my 14hp build

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=147324

you need to bore it out .010 over to do a proper rebuild, check to see crank journal is worn. if it scared in any way that need to be turned as well and also balance the crank and junk the balance gears.

Dont use the no name ebay kits.... spend the extra 20$ and get stens parts... well worth the extra couple of bucks... trust me, I had to rebuild a k341 with 2 hours on it after using cheap parts...

I use turftractor.com for all my stens parts and Kirkengines.com for my performance parts


Enjoy your rebuild

Ian
 

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here is my 14hp build

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=147324

you need to bore it out .010 over to do a proper rebuild, check to see crank journal is worn. if it scared in any way that need to be turned as well and also balance the crank and junk the balance gears.

Dont use the no name ebay kits.... spend the extra 20$ and get stens parts... well worth the extra couple of bucks... trust me, I had to rebuild a k341 with 2 hours on it after using cheap parts...

I use turftractor.com for all my stens parts and Kirkengines.com for my performance parts


Enjoy your rebuild

Ian

I read through your thread, so you put some performance parts on it right? Are you happy with them, is it worth the money? I don't think I need a lot more power, but if you're talking similar cost why not. But I also want to keep the reliability, of a stock engine, in some cases modifications can turn in to constant adjusting, tweaking, or fixing.

What about ignition? does my k321 have points? It sounds like you upgraded away from that, or am I misreading?

What other wearable items should I consider, stator?
 

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Yes I got rid of the points But in your case you could just get the pointsaver system that Kirk engines offer with a new coil and wire ...way cheaper then the route I took... I used the pointsaver system on my K321 14 hp build and its also a great system. In both cases you get rid of that condensor.

The only reason I did the performance cam im my K341 16 hp... ( its still uses stock lift ) was because I run a tiller and the tractor need more power to run it.

Every modification I did is pretty much stock but with better parts... I dont want to go overboard for the same reason as you, to keep the reliability.

You can also take the balance gears out without balancing your crank. They is no difference. Kohler didn't put them in all there engines. Some block have them some dont. I get my cranks balanced to 53% just for peice of mind, and thats what the tractor pull guys do... lol... :greendr:

as for the Stator its only 50$, Its just good insurance.

I have ran into bad valve rotators and now my build is on hold because of them... Up here in Canada I have to order from the US to save money... So everytime I need a part its a 2 weeks wait.... So check all your parts before you order stuff... it can bite you in the a$$ ... :fing32:

Here is the control box for the pointsaver system... The LED is there to help you time your engine perfectly

 

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so how much did you spend on your engine job? did you do the labor, and pay for machining?
Grinding the crank and boring the cylinder was $100. The kit I got on ebay was $125 for everything, including valves. Did the rest of the work myself. I have 20 hours of hard mowing on it so the kit seems ok.

I did have to put an electric fuel pump on because it was vapor locking when I was trying to mow when it was 90+ degrees out.
 
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