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Kohler K241 ?'s

10598 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Newsman
I was out messing around with the throttle linkage today. High idle used to be 1,440 rpms unloaded. Now it'll hit 2,200+ rpms loaded, but it sounds 10x's louder. Also before the throttle lever would easily control the rpm and now it seems to wonder around. I'll set it around 1600 rpms and it will slowly increase to ~2000 rpms or so.

Now it mows just as fast in second gear as it used to in third and I opened her up in fourth gear on the road and it felt like I was going quite a bit faster then the 8 mph the John Deere service manual says the max speed is.

All the rpm readings came from my knock-off add on digital tach. So I don't know how accurate that is. I'm starting to wonder if I was over revving it. The engine sounded great. Like it was on steroids. As far as I know is completely factory except for the exhaust stack I put on, which you can look straight through the muffler.

I'd really like to grab my gps and see how fast it'll go, but I'm afraid of damaging it.

Also I could not adjust the idle speed. It was either ~1140 rpms or it was dieing. So I think I need to re-adjust the High/Low idle speed screws. The manual says to turn out the High screw 1.5 turns and the Low screw 2 turns.

I don't understand how the governor linkage is suppose to be set up. I moved the spring in between the governor arm and other arm that connects to the throttle cable and thats how I got the rpms to raise above 1440. I adjusted the adjustment screw on the throttle arm (?) until the spring sat loose on the governor arm at low idle. But that seems to be where I messed up the throttle lever. Unless that adjustment screw has to much tension still and is pulling on the throttle lever too much or something.

Can someone shed some light on this?

Also, is the low idle only controlled by turning the idle speed screw? It seemed like the engine took forever to change rpms after adjusting the screw.

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i adjusted the high/low screws to spec. the high wasn't even close. the low wasn't too far off. it took a lot longer to to hit the point where it would run without the choke on. after it warmed up, i adjusted the idle speed screw. it was idling at 900 rpms, now its 1100. if you bump the choke on a little bit, it runs better.

i sprayed the outside of the carb with carb cleaner to find air leaks. when i hit the throttle shaft the engine sped up so thats leaking air. i think i'll get a carb kit and just rebuild it. my other two tractor's carbs need to be rebuilt also. so i might as well do them all at the same time.

after adjusting the carb, i got it up to 3000 rpms and then ran out of gas :fing20:
after i refilled, it would only go to 2300 rpms. i'm not sure why it would change.

maybe its just the tach. i could hear the engine changing rpms and the tach seemed to take awhile to change.
The spring your playing with is for sensitivity. One way it will lengthen the time the engine recoops when searching for power the other way will make it way to responsive. It can make the governor hunt if to sensitive. Put everything back to where you got it from and do one adjustment at a time.

As far as the linkage from governor to throttle shaft, that may have had just enough tension on it to keep it at idle rpm's. Sounds to me like you extended the arm as your spring is now sitting loose. Only time I mess with governor is on a rebuild, I make the other adjutments through the throttle cable and such.

If your trying to raise rpm's, look in the general area of where your cables are attached to the air shroud, to the bottom of that there should a stop screw and nut, reverse the screw and your rpm's come up, turn screw in the rpm's go down, its controling how far the linkage is moving. Do not run these engines over 4000 rpm. 3600 is recommended.
well the problem was with the throttle lever at 100%, the throttle was only opening maybe 50% or less. when i moved the spring, i was able to get 100% throttle from the lever. if i remember right, the spring was all the way at the bottom of the arms and now its about in the middle.

this spring is the only thing connecting the throttle lever linkage to the governor. is that correct or is it missing a piece?

should this spring have tension on it at idle?

maybe i'll take a pic so i can better understand what you are saying.
ok, heres some pics.
i did not adjust the spring on the governor side. that where it was when i bought it.
obviously missing something for the throttle cable, the outside piece is held there by a zip tie.


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Another idea, i'm kinda thinking your cable end pulled up past the zip strip. Did you try and pull it back down under the zip strip? Thinking maybe that was holding it in place and it just pulled through. If that is the case carefull when you start it as you did move some stuff and you might get some run away rpm's from her.
okay that explains a lot. hopefully i can find one.

i'll try moving it on the zip tie. real carefully. will it still run away, i didn't change anything on the governor or between it and the carb.

you got it, its the same tractor in my avator, 1971 JD 112, manual lift, manual pto engage. bought it last december about a week before i bought my house.
Thats a boy. Buy the tractor before the house. :biglaugh:
I would have too. Sure is a nice looking tractor. Maybe I should look at your avatar next time. lol :biglaugh:

You buy chance have a sleeve hitch and a plow for it. I was on one that was setup for a plow and that thing would go through anything. Man that was addictive, i've been trying to get a deal on a sleeve hitch for my 78' 316 ever since.

So for now I just putz around on my 83' 210, put the tiller on and go to town.

Good luck to you and finding your part.
nope, don't have a plow or a sleeve hitch. wish i did. everybody wants a fortune for them though. i do have a 39" snow blower for the 112. i did just get a plow for my '85 112L last week.
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