[tranks]

I was out messing around with the throttle linkage today. High idle used to be 1,440 rpms unloaded. Now it'll hit 2,200+ rpms loaded, but it sounds 10x's louder. Also before the throttle lever would easily control the rpm and now it seems to wonder around. I'll set it around 1600 rpms and it will slowly increase to ~2000 rpms or so.

Now it mows just as fast in second gear as it used to in third and I opened her up in fourth gear on the road and it felt like I was going quite a bit faster then the 8 mph the John Deere service manual says the max speed is.

All the rpm readings came from my knock-off add on digital tach. So I don't know how accurate that is. I'm starting to wonder if I was over revving it. The engine sounded great. Like it was on steroids. As far as I know is completely factory except for the exhaust stack I put on, which you can look straight through the muffler.

I'd really like to grab my gps and see how fast it'll go, but I'm afraid of damaging it.

Also I could not adjust the idle speed. It was either ~1140 rpms or it was dieing. So I think I need to re-adjust the High/Low idle speed screws. The manual says to turn out the High screw 1.5 turns and the Low screw 2 turns.

I don't understand how the governor linkage is suppose to be set up. I moved the spring in between the governor arm and other arm that connects to the throttle cable and thats how I got the rpms to raise above 1440. I adjusted the adjustment screw on the throttle arm (?) until the spring sat loose on the governor arm at low idle. But that seems to be where I messed up the throttle lever. Unless that adjustment screw has to much tension still and is pulling on the throttle lever too much or something.

Can someone shed some light on this?

Also, is the low idle only controlled by turning the idle speed screw? It seemed like the engine took forever to change rpms after adjusting the screw.

:thanku:

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

Hunting at speed and the hi reving and inability to idle all point towards lean fuel mixture or plugged jets.. Have you done anything with the carb lately?.. Another possibility could be an air leak in the intake manifold or carb gasket.. Just a couple ideas for ya.. :goodl:

 

[rscurtis]

I wouldn't put any faith in your tachometer. Idle speed is around 1400 RPM.

 

[tranks]

i adjusted the high/low screws to spec. the high wasn't even close. the low wasn't too far off. it took a lot longer to to hit the point where it would run without the choke on. after it warmed up, i adjusted the idle speed screw. it was idling at 900 rpms, now its 1100. if you bump the choke on a little bit, it runs better.

i sprayed the outside of the carb with carb cleaner to find air leaks. when i hit the throttle shaft the engine sped up so thats leaking air. i think i'll get a carb kit and just rebuild it. my other two tractor's carbs need to be rebuilt also. so i might as well do them all at the same time.

after adjusting the carb, i got it up to 3000 rpms and then ran out of gas :fing20:
after i refilled, it would only go to 2300 rpms. i'm not sure why it would change.

maybe its just the tach. i could hear the engine changing rpms and the tach seemed to take awhile to change.

 

[cadetpwr]

High rpm should be 3600 or close to it. I try to get the gov set so it will recover to over 3500 once the PTO is engaged and the mower or snowthrower is up to speed. Running an air cooled engine at less that full RPM under a load for any length of time is a good way to overheat them and burn up the rings, causing premature oil burning and smoking. Idle I normaly set by ear and is the lowest she will run without stalling, loading up or cutting out when I come off of idle to full power quickly, called a snap test. More than likely the carb has plugged up jets and grime from our poor excuse of fuel we call gas. The ethanol in the fuel seperates from the gas portion and is very corrosive to the carb parts, gums up the jets with a brown goo that even our best clearers and soaker can will hardly do anything with. If my 110 will sit for any length of time, I shut off the fuel on the bottom of the tank, and run her still she dies. Mike

 

[dj722000]

I don't understand how the governor linkage is suppose to be set up. I moved the spring in between the governor arm and other arm that connects to the throttle cable and thats how I got the rpms to raise above 1440. I adjusted the adjustment screw on the throttle arm (?) until the spring sat loose on the governor arm at low idle. But that seems to be where I messed up the throttle lever. Unless that adjustment screw has to much tension still and is pulling on the throttle lever too much or something. :thanku:

The spring your playing with is for sensitivity. One way it will lengthen the time the engine recoops when searching for power the other way will make it way to responsive. It can make the governor hunt if to sensitive. Put everything back to where you got it from and do one adjustment at a time.

As far as the linkage from governor to throttle shaft, that may have had just enough tension on it to keep it at idle rpm's. Sounds to me like you extended the arm as your spring is now sitting loose. Only time I mess with governor is on a rebuild, I make the other adjutments through the throttle cable and such.

If your trying to raise rpm's, look in the general area of where your cables are attached to the air shroud, to the bottom of that there should a stop screw and nut, reverse the screw and your rpm's come up, turn screw in the rpm's go down, its controling how far the linkage is moving. Do not run these engines over 4000 rpm. 3600 is recommended.

 

[tranks]

The spring your playing with is for sensitivity. One way it will lengthen the time the engine recoops when searching for power the other way will make it way to responsive. It can make the governor hunt if to sensitive. Put everything back to where you got it from and do one adjustment at a time.

As far as the linkage from governor to throttle shaft, that may have had just enough tension on it to keep it at idle rpm's. Sounds to me like you extended the arm as your spring is now sitting loose. Only time I mess with governor is on a rebuild, I make the other adjutments through the throttle cable and such.

If your trying to raise rpm's, look in the general area of where your cables are attached to the air shroud, to the bottom of that there should a stop screw and nut, reverse the screw and your rpm's come up, turn screw in the rpm's go down, its controling how far the linkage is moving. Do not run these engines over 4000 rpm. 3600 is recommended.

well the problem was with the throttle lever at 100%, the throttle was only opening maybe 50% or less. when i moved the spring, i was able to get 100% throttle from the lever. if i remember right, the spring was all the way at the bottom of the arms and now its about in the middle.

this spring is the only thing connecting the throttle lever linkage to the governor. is that correct or is it missing a piece?

should this spring have tension on it at idle?

maybe i'll take a pic so i can better understand what you are saying.

 

[tranks]

ok, heres some pics.
i did not adjust the spring on the governor side. that where it was when i bought it.
obviously missing something for the throttle cable, the outside piece is held there by a zip tie.

 

[dj722000]

Ahhh, yeah, your missing the piece that holds the throttle cable in place. Its just a piece of bent metal with a spring clip and it holds the cable in place. With out that, you will probably never get the cable to stay in place thus youll lose your cable position and slowly lose rpm's while running. (ZIP strip isnt strong enough to hold it in place.)

Now, half way up the fuel line and to the right you see a screw with a spring at about a 45 deg. angle, this is where you would adjust your hi speed stop. But again, without the piece holding the cable, it wont matter where you put it because the cable wont stay.

You scrounge around long enough, you may find someone who will part with the piece you need. Maybe if you have a local John Deere, there may be a person out there who has one as they tend to collect alot of the older GT.

If I had one I would send it to ya, but I dont. Sorry. Could look on Ebay to.

Another idea is I cant see it in the pic, but if your choke has a cable holder, use that for the throttle instead, run choke by hand until you find another one. Might have to move the cable holder around on the air shroud to find the correct position. Should be a tapped hole on there somewheres where the other one went to. Right now that is the best I can do for ya but it gives you an idea that something isnt right and your close to having it fixed. :fing32:

 

[dj722000]

Just admiring your tractor. DROOLS.
Is that a old hand clutch on the beast? Last time I seen a pulley like that it was on a 110. Ohhhh doesnt look like a 110 though, 112 maybe since there is a 10hp K-Series in it? Nice........

 

[dj722000]

Another idea, i'm kinda thinking your cable end pulled up past the zip strip. Did you try and pull it back down under the zip strip? Thinking maybe that was holding it in place and it just pulled through. If that is the case carefull when you start it as you did move some stuff and you might get some run away rpm's from her.

 

[tranks]

Another idea, i'm kinda thinking your cable end pulled up past the zip strip. Did you try and pull it back down under the zip strip? Thinking maybe that was holding it in place and it just pulled through. If that is the case carefull when you start it as you did move some stuff and you might get some run away rpm's from her.

okay that explains a lot. hopefully i can find one.

i'll try moving it on the zip tie. real carefully. will it still run away, i didn't change anything on the governor or between it and the carb.

you got it, its the same tractor in my avator, 1971 JD 112, manual lift, manual pto engage. bought it last december about a week before i bought my house.

 

[dj722000]

i'll try moving it on the zip tie. real carefully. will it still run away, i didn't change anything on the governor or between it and the carb.

I just know you said you did some stuff and your rpm's came up. Just be ready to shut er down if it gets out of hand on ya!

you got it, its the same tractor in my avator, 1971 JD 112, manual lift, manual pto engage. bought it last december about a week before i bought my house.

Thats a boy. Buy the tractor before the house. :biglaugh:
I would have too. Sure is a nice looking tractor. Maybe I should look at your avatar next time. lol :biglaugh:

You buy chance have a sleeve hitch and a plow for it. I was on one that was setup for a plow and that thing would go through anything. Man that was addictive, i've been trying to get a deal on a sleeve hitch for my 78' 316 ever since.

So for now I just putz around on my 83' 210, put the tiller on and go to town.

Good luck to you and finding your part.

 

[dj722000]

sounds 10x's louder. Also before the throttle lever would easily control the rpm and now it seems to wonder around. I'll set it around 1600 rpms and it will slowly increase to ~2000 rpms or so.

I will almost gurantee that your cable is sliding through the zip strip allowing the governor to slowly pull open your throttle linkage creating extra rpm's and makes it wonder on ya. When its running, your cable is just sliding back and forth not physically holding the governor in place and allowing your throttle to just do whatever.

 

[tranks]

Thats a boy. Buy the tractor before the house. :biglaugh:
I would have too. Sure is a nice looking tractor. Maybe I should look at your avatar next time. lol :biglaugh:

You buy chance have a sleeve hitch and a plow for it. I was on one that was setup for a plow and that thing would go through anything. Man that was addictive, i've been trying to get a deal on a sleeve hitch for my 78' 316 ever since.

So for now I just putz around on my 83' 210, put the tiller on and go to town.

Good luck to you and finding your part.

nope, don't have a plow or a sleeve hitch. wish i did. everybody wants a fortune for them though. i do have a 39" snow blower for the 112. i did just get a plow for my '85 112L last week.

 

[ford4wd08]

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but my 74 110 with the 10 horse K241 has the same exact thing done to the throttle cable.

Does any one know what the part I missing looks like? I can't find it in the service manual on deere parts.

I can improvise if need be, but my is zip tied to the exact same place.

 

[Newsman]

Like this.

Just search the net for small engine throttle cable clamps

BTW you'll also need the small screw that clamps them down.
MikeC