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Wish I had seen this thread a lot sooner. I have the cross between JD parts for this job and Kawasaki. Saves about $100 on a rebuild job. I did my F725, replacing bad plastic camshaft and all parts came in Kawasaki boxes with Kawasaki part numbers on them. I saved all numbers.
 

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Wish I had seen this thread a lot sooner. I have the cross between JD parts for this job and Kawasaki. Saves about $100 on a rebuild job. I did my F725, replacing bad plastic camshaft and all parts came in Kawasaki boxes with Kawasaki part numbers on them. I saved all numbers.
I have had several requests for this list so I thought I would go ahead and post it.

JD F725 Engine Parts

PART JD PART # KAWASAKI PART #

Ring AM105554 13008-6016
Camshaft (steel gear) AM127312 12044-2242
Valve Tappet M76089 12032-2064
Crankcase Gasket M139096 11060-2449
Head Gasket M76070 11004-2098
Top Seal M76128 92049-2110
Bottom Seal M76154 92049-2112
Oil Pump Gear M76098 59051-2114
Water Pump Gear M76144 59051-2113
Governor Gear AM105569 49110-2073
Governor Sleeve PT9996 12036-2096
Washer M95856 92200-2036
Water Pump Gasket M139018 11060-2451
Water Pump Gasket M139017 110602450
Oil Filter “O” Ring 49065-2058
Intake Gasket M113684 11060-2077
Intake Gasket M113685 11060-2078
Carburetor Gasket M97307 11060-2076
 

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Ehammond,

Thanks for your informative post! :)
 

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Hello all,

I am getting ready to attempt the dreaded plastic cam replacement in my "new to me" JD 345. It currently has around 860hrs and runs like new. I want to replace the plastic cam BEFORE it gives up. I purchased all the needed parts today and was just wanting to get any tips or ideas from anyone who has done the job before.

My tech manual is already on order and should be here in a few days.

Thanks for any help !
Hello Lee,

I'm the proud owner of a '98 JD 345 with about 368 hours. Do you think my 345 has the plastic cam as you mentioned....???


:greendr:
 

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As mentioned above, if your tractor's serial number is above 70,000 you are safe with a different engine.
 

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I have done 3 345's and a 425. The 425 was so easy. the last 345 I only had about 7 hour in. Deere says to replace lifter and install a heavy duty valve spring(M135854) with metal camshaft to prevent valves from sticking.
If your 345 engine serial # is 106324 or higher your in the clear, if your an f-725 and your 106864 or higher your in good shape.

Ehammond, I have tried to order parts direct from kawasaki before but when they were for an engine that john deere uses they were not allowed to sell them to individuals, but that was just for parts on a 757 z-trak.

I recently learned that John Deere Remanufacturing is starting a line for starters and alternators too i think. This will help pass on lower costs of starters. A starter for 620I Gator is $675. The coal mines in the area love the XUV series gators but are really hard on the starters.

Hope maybe I helped someone. If anyone has any deere questions, don't hesitate to ask I'd love to help ya out.
:trink40:
 

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I need torqu specs for a kawasaki 620d

head torque,
water pump,
cover,

Need valve clearence settings intake/exhaust

Where can I get a downlaodable service manual fast

Thanks
 

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Great pics The JD rattle cans are great but I noticed the paint take a while to really cure even after you can touch it.
Any one else noticed it ??
 

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Here is the prevention guys and gals..Put a fuel shut off in the fuel line..Shut the fuel off after EVERY use..

The engine is flooding, filling the cylinder with gas, when you try and start it the piston hydraulics, pushes on the valve that is holding the plastic cam gear while the starter is turning the crankshaft...Presto strip the teeth or break the plastic cam gear,,Simple really..

The Mikuni carb on these tractors just cannot take the bouncing around..I have changed the needle on a few with no improvement, next would be the float, but a $5 fuel shut off is the cure..

Flame away, but I am convinced this is the issue at hand that is causing the problem.
 

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After 4 full pages of the dreded cam replacement; Allthose pages full of advice .; Now you tell us the cure as simple as a fuel shout off valve Thanks buddy;; Now we can move on..Oh I have 2 425 john deere tractors. A good tractor;;
 

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and none of the advise if for a prevention to the issue. Your welcome..

Oh, I have a 2210,245,TG1860G Cub 2072, my father had a JD dealership, my father in law had a Kawasaki dealership. Junior Pipins top mech is a good freind of mine. I know Karen Stoffer and I used to pit for Steve Johnson. Does that qualify me for an opinion? I will stop there for ya,there is more.
 

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Let's keep it civil guys. :)
 

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Here is the prevention guys and gals..Put a fuel shut off in the fuel line..Shut the fuel off after EVERY use..

The engine is flooding, filling the cylinder with gas, when you try and start it the piston hydraulics, pushes on the valve that is holding the plastic cam gear while the starter is turning the crankshaft...Presto strip the teeth or break the plastic cam gear,,Simple really..

The Mikuni carb on these tractors just cannot take the bouncing around..I have changed the needle on a few with no improvement, next would be the float, but a $5 fuel shut off is the cure..

Flame away, but I am convinced this is the issue at hand that is causing the problem.
Not a flame, just not convinced that this is the "cure". The one problem that I see with this theory is that those engines that have had the plastic cam gear replaced with a steel cam gear (and those engines that come with a steel cam gear originally) should then keep popping head gaskets, as something's gotta give. Is there a rash of unexplained head gasket failures of these engines with the steel cam gears (owners of tractors with these engines speak up)? I mean this should be catastrophic, as in gas spraying or pouring out from between the head and block during this hydraulic action. Also, this should be evident in engines that have had the plastic gear failure as they would have a history of this problem and it would very likely happen again in a short period of time after the installation of the new steel cam gear.

I'm more than welcome to be wrong myself, but I just do not think what you are describing is what is happening and has been going undiagnosed all this time. Feel free to point out errors in my logic, I can take it! :sport30: :sterb025:

Paul
 

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Lloyd,

I meant it, if there's a flaw to my logic, please point it out. I'm looking for an honest discussion, not a whizzing contest, my previous post was not meant to be interpreted as inflammatory, if you took it that way and ignored it as such, I'm sorry. I just have a hard time believing your theory because I would have thought something like that would be more common on "lesser" engines (i.e. like Briggs and others), and perhaps it is and I'm not aware of it. And, as I stated earlier, I would think there'd be evidence, such as the fuel spraying out through a blown headgasket caused by the hydraulic action during the compression cycle.

Paul
 

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Interesting thread . thx for the link Jack N - did not know of this site-I have only been researching Kubotas but I,m always looking for more imfo...Kawasaki should be ashamed - failing plastic timing gears- any chevy/auto mechanic will tell you= cheap crap. Their motorcycle engines are good - As for hydraulic'd cyls - well the ones I,ve seen usually locked up or bent the connecting rod or shot the plug outa aluminum cyl. head threads ( forklifts flipped over & cyls filled with oil ) Kawasaki makes dirt bikes & they've had Mikuni carbs for decades...new gears dont fix fuel leaks.
 

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I have had several requests for this list so I thought I would go ahead and post it.

JD F725 Engine Parts

PART JD PART # KAWASAKI PART #

Ring AM105554 13008-6016
Camshaft (steel gear) AM127312 12044-2242
Valve Tappet M76089 12032-2064
Crankcase Gasket M139096 11060-2449
Head Gasket M76070 11004-2098
Top Seal M76128 92049-2110
Bottom Seal M76154 92049-2112
Oil Pump Gear M76098 59051-2114
Water Pump Gear M76144 59051-2113
Governor Gear AM105569 49110-2073
Governor Sleeve PT9996 12036-2096
Washer M95856 92200-2036
Water Pump Gasket M139018 11060-2451
Water Pump Gasket M139017 110602450
Oil Filter “O” Ring 49065-2058
Intake Gasket M113684 11060-2077
Intake Gasket M113685 11060-2078
Carburetor Gasket M97307 11060-2076
Just thought I would add this list is great I used it to order parts came in and all was correct. I've just reassembled engine and heading out to drop it in. Thanks again for sharing.

George
 

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Electric shut off valve is installed on mine now..All fixed, no more worries..

Starts so much better it is night and day from what it was..Just put it on full choke and it starts right up , everytime..No more acting like the starter is going bad or the battery is weak..
 

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OK I'm new here but I have a theory to kick in on this one. Could it be that the plastic gears degrade over time from the oil? From my experience plastic doesn't react very good with oil unless it is plastic save oil, I use plastic safe oil on my model trains.
I also find it hard to believe the CYL is filling up with fuel when the pump isn't active. Or am I missing something here?
 

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Even though I have a lot of respect for Junior Pipins, Karen Stoffer, and Steve Johnson, I’m sorry Lloyd574 but I’m going to disagree with your theory. Not a flame, just a disagreement.

My reasoning - Is there more fuel in the carb bowl than there is room in the combustion chamber (don’t forget the head gasket thickness and the deck clearance) with the piston at TDC? Just by eye-balling it, I’d say it would be close at best. Also, all of the fuel would have to be siphoned up-hill out of the float bowl and go into just one cylinder, without any of it leaking past the rings before the engine gets turned over again. The scenario may be theoretically possible, but I’m thinking it’s not too likely. Interesting thought though.
 
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