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Discussion Starter #21
I just wanted to give you some credit for the swap. I had a g110 which is basically a factory built L series with a K66 and it never let me down. Even when I was in over my head pulling something I shouldn't be it never quit. Gave it to my dad at 375 hours and it's still running great enjoying the retired life. That tractor might get 10 hours a year now on easy street.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. Hopefully it comes all together. Traveling the rest of the week for work so wont get much done.
 

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Anyone that has installed a K66 in a L or D series tractor what length was the belt you used?
Is the pulley the same size on the K66? If not can you use the pulley from the k46? If the pulley is larger on the K66 then it will be driven too slow.

Here is a pulley calculator, it's handy for figuring out the belt length difference. Use a ballpark for the pulley centers and then use the exact difference to figure out how much longer that makes the belt. The idlers make it a complex measurement so work off the length of your old one.

https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Is the pulley the same size on the K66? If not can you use the pulley from the k46? If the pulley is larger on the K66 then it will be driven too slow.

Here is a pulley calculator, it's handy for figuring out the belt length difference. Use a ballpark for the pulley centers and then use the exact difference to figure out how much longer that makes the belt. The idlers make it a complex measurement so work off the length of your old one.

https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx
Thanks for the link. The K66 pulley is larger so I will use the T40J pulley. The trans pulley location sits further forward so I will need to get a shorter belt. I will do some measuring to see. I just thought someone could tell me what they used on the swap.
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Thanks for the link. The K66 pulley is larger so I will use the T40J pulley. The trans pulley location sits further forward so I will need to get a shorter belt. I will do some measuring to see. I just thought someone could tell me what they used on the swap.
On the K66 upgrade to L120/130s, we swapped the front drive pulley and used the drive belt for the G110. WALLY2Qs had all the data posted here on the forum somewhere. The original drive pulley for the K46 was too small to drive the K66 and could slip.

Paul
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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Discussion Starter #26
Does anyone know if Roger uses different pulleys on his K66 conversion packages? According to his instructions I don't see where that is the case other than a K66 pulley for the trans.

Today I am hoping to get my linkage put together since it has to go backwards. I have some adjustable tie rod ends that I am going to use. I will start with a center lever that will probably change. going to test to see if I get full travel for forward and reverse.
 

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Does anyone know if Roger uses different pulleys on his K66 conversion packages? According to his instructions I don't see where that is the case other than a K66 pulley for the trans.

Today I am hoping to get my linkage put together since it has to go backwards. I have some adjustable tie rod ends that I am going to use. I will start with a center lever that will probably change. going to test to see if I get full travel for forward and reverse.
Not sure, when I asked him questions (I think I asked the same guy) I didn't get a response, which is fair enough because telling people how to DIY what you sell isn't much of a business model I suppose. When I put the K71 in my LA145 the pulley barely grabbed the splines when I used my T40 pulley and the K71 fan. I planned on making a permanent fix but that permanent fix ended up a new tractor, lol.

I couldn't find an off the shelf pulley that worked, so I was going to grind off the pulley on either the tranny side or the engine side and get a proper diameter one welded on.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Cut rear out for access to reservoir.

I am adding bracing around area and fabricating 1/4" steel plate that will connect from Johnny Hitch into frame rails. This will beef up the whole rear of the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ran into some issues with pillow block. I am adding a second and running a bar in between two pillow blocks (One on each frame rail). This will keep the bearing from moving sideways inside the assembly. Will have pictures when I finish that.

Started on the Johnny P hitch install and reinforcing the frame. First step complete and next step is the added steel plate for strength.

I installed 86" belt and test ran the K66Y. It looks like I will need to change out the pulley to get some more speed. I knew this would be the case but tried it anyway. I will put the T40J pulley on trans for now as it looks like a lot more modification to the front if I put larger pulley on engine. The metal would need to be re-worked and it is part of the inner frame, and not like a L-Series.
 

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Nice work. Looking forward to the finished product.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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Signed on to see it come together
 

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Just finished up tonight. Works perfect! K66Y DOES Work in a D-Series!
Looks good! I see you spanned the pivot point between the frame rails for your linkage, which is what I was going to do if I kept using that tractor. It looks like you added an idler pulley to keep tension on the belt, did you run into a problem that made you add it? Also one thing I forgot about when I did mine was the break pedal on my LA had a linkage attached to an idler pulley so it disengaged drive to the transmission if the brake pedal was pressed. The T40 had a pin that stopped the belt from jumping off but the K71 did not because it's meant to remain driven so I had to remove the linkage. Did you run into this on yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I added the idler pulley as a 87" belt was too short and a 88" belt too long. The idler pulley takes up the slack.

I removed the linkage from the brake pedal and the belt stays engaged at all times.

On the pedal linkage I made a shaft and connected it to (2) pillow blocks to help with the amount of pressure to engage. The foot control pedal still takes more effort than stock.

Thanks
 

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Great job. That makes your D155 a very capable tractor now compared to any other D series machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
K66Y Retrofit Complete. Change is fairly easy but you have to fabricate a few parts to make it work.

Parts you need:

1) K66Y Transmission - $350 + shipping at Surplus Center (Use pulley and fan that comes with trans)
2) Engine Pulley - $50 GY20595
3) Hubs from 345 - $75 ebay
4) 1" Key Stock, Washers, Snap Rings, Caps - $20 24H1458, GX21387, 24H1452, M143338
5) 23x10.50-12 Tires - $150 Miller Tire
6) 12x10.5" wheels - $70 ebay
7) Frame reinforcement & sleeve-hitch link - $25 (left & right side): GX21419BLE, GX21420BLE
8) Trans Support brackets - $20 GX21404BLE, GX21403BLE
9) (2) 12mm hole pillow blocks - $15 ebay
10) 88" belt - $18 Napa
11) idler pulley - $15 Napa
12) Misc metal - $20
13) Tie-Rod end with adjustable shafts - $25 ebay

The one hard part was fabricating the reverse motion controls. I cut the rod going from foot controls to trans and used the section I cut out to use in between the frame rails and welded a piece so connection could be made. I used tie rod end shafts used on a go cart to thread to shaft and that gives you an adjustable pedal so that it will work correctly. Outside of that everything else was EZPZ.

Hopes this write up helps other members.

Thanks

Stewart
 
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