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Discussion Starter #2
Not having much luck finding 1" hubs cheap. Does anyone have any or point me in the right direction. I found some on ebay for $100 but would need to purchase shims and washers plus keyway and snap ring.

Also on the wheels I would like to do the widest possible with the right offset.
 

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M131396 which subs for M127787. Have you checked Craigslist for someone who is parting out one of the models that use the 1" hubs? Some eBay sellers have parts they don't list, so find one selling wide wheels and ask about hubs.

Good luck.
 

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That's a good deal for a K66, probably would have done that myself but I couldn't find a K66 at the time so I swapped a K71. My word of caution though is that according to the K66 upgrade kit guy the K66Y won't work in the 100 series mowers, only the x300 series. He doesn't say why, but the difference between the two tractors is the throttle linkage (among other things). The x300 pulls the linkage forward for going forward, the 100 series pulls it forward for going in reverse, if I remember correctly. For my K71 swap I had to build a reverse throw linkage, but it never worked quite right. If you are comfortable engineering some parts and have more tools available to you than I did, then Godspeed!
 

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I believe the correct trans to use for the upgrade in your D155 should of been the K66R not the K66Y.

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I talked with Roger @ RJR and yes the K66Y controls are backwards. I will have to fabricate my controls to work correctly.

Not sure yet how I will do it but am going to give it shot. Thanks for your replies.

Stew
 

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Going to make this Lever in the middle of rod between pedal and transmission
That's what I did. I think mine would have worked better but the middle linkage piece you should make as long as you can with the room available, and also make the piece that it pivots on strong, I broke mine a couple of times.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What metal did you use? Do you have a picture of it by chance.

That's what I did. I think mine would have worked better but the middle linkage piece you should make as long as you can with the room available, and also make the piece that it pivots on strong, I broke mine a couple of times.
 

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I'm offering this as a possible alternate solution. Years back when the K46/K66 swap and rebuilb threads were active, some MTF rebuilders noticed that when they accidentally reversed the drive wedge (part #28 in attached diagram) the hydro would work "backwards". This may be an easier solution then building an external reversing mechanism. I'm not sure if or how it would affect top speeds in forward and reverse. Perhaps some experienced rebuilders would care to comment.

Of course, you'd have to split a brand new hydro to do the mod, but it might be easier than fabricating a new external bracket.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm offering this as a possible alternate solution. Years back when the K46/K66 swap and rebuilb threads were active, some MTF rebuilders noticed that when they accidentally reversed the drive wedge (part #28 in attached diagram) the hydro would work "backwards". This may be an easier solution then building an external reversing mechanism. I'm not sure if or how it would affect top speeds in forward and reverse. Perhaps some experienced rebuilders would care to comment.

Of course, you'd have to split a brand new hydro to do the mod, but it might be easier than fabricating a new external bracket.

Paul
Good suggestion. I talked with Tuff Torq and they said that Reverse would be faster than forward if I did this unless I changed out the top cover.

Thank you
 

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I reverse the drive wedge in the K 46s when I have a problem with forward and reverse being interchanged.....never noticed a speed issue
 

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What metal did you use? Do you have a picture of it by
I used 1/8" steel and cut the pieces out of it. I also used a steel cylinder with brass bushings that fit inside it and a bolt to attach it to the frame. The brass bushing were longer than the steel cylinder so that the middle linkage used it as a pivot, held in place laterally by the steel cylinder and a washer on the outside. The only pic I have is on my build thread but I'm having a hard time getting the mobile version to copy the link correctly. Basically I'd do it differently though. If make the pivot larger and welded to a steel plate that is welded to the frame to reduce flex. I would also use better end links on the control rod to reduce binding and minimize slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tear down begins. Removed fenders and steering console for better access.

Removed T40J with tires still on and moved to side for now.

Tested fitted K66Y in frame to check input pullet height and to get an idea of how to tackle the controls issue.

Looks like I will need to change how plastic reservoir sits, probably will cut section of frame out and reinforce.

Still waiting for pillow block and adjustable tie rod ends to be delivered.
 

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I just wanted to give you some credit for the swap. I had a g110 which is basically a factory built L series with a K66 and it never let me down. Even when I was in over my head pulling something I shouldn't be it never quit. Gave it to my dad at 375 hours and it's still running great enjoying the retired life. That tractor might get 10 hours a year now on easy street.
 
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