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Discussion Starter #1
I saw several posting last year of people not wanting to crack open the K58 to add drains. It's not that difficult to do and the drilling and tapping the drain bosses was really easy. Nice thick bosses for threads and the high quality aluminum threaded very nicely. Drill holes from the inside out to stay inside the bosses. I "fixed" mine at around 200 hrs after sucking out and replacing as much fluid as possible (approx 1/3) at least 10 different times in the last 2 years. Fair amount of crude and fine filings on all 4 magnets and in the bottom of the case, especially on the side you can't reach with tube to suck out fluid. I'm guessing I might have had maybe 50 hours before mine would have really torn itself up.

Tuff Torq was very helpful. Order the gasket kit (covers all gaskets/seals/vent valve & the stuff to seal the case), drain bolt kit (item 187Q0399940). I also ordered extra vent valves as that is the only way to fill trans on machine and replaced the thrust washers and the e-ring on the drive pulley. Keep it as clean as you can, scrapping the old case material is the hardest part but use rags and take your time.

The two shiny (zinc) bolts in second pic are the two drain plugs. The open case pic is before cleaning case halves or changing out axle seals, etc. Huge difference in before and after performance, no groaning and no jerks when stopping or reversing. I think draining fluid is a must if you are going to keep this trans running for the long term. I've run about 10 hours and just drained fluid again just in case I contaminated anything. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not sure what the thread size was anymore, Tuff Torq can tell you for sure. I do recall it was metric.

Re refilling, I've been using a Mityvac hand pump with a pitiful 4 oz capacity. It's an awful mess to fill the trans from empty. I'll get a 1 gal pump up lawn/yard sprayer for the next oil change and modify the hose. If you want to go fancy you could get a Mityvac MV7201, it has a 1.9 gal capacity but its too large and expensive for what I would use.
 

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This may sound silly, but now that you have the drain holes why can't you do at least a partial fill through the drain holes? I know that means removing the transmission from the tractor, but it seems like you've already got that part down and it's not a regular occurance to have to drain/refill so it shouldn't be bad to pull the transmission every other year or so. Seems like that would speed up having to get fluid into both sides of the transmission. Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can fill through the vent valve/breather at the rear of tractor. I plan on draining at least once a year. We only have 1 acre but the transmission gets worked, I'm South of Houston and 100 degree days are par in Summer and I have a Johnny Bucket Jr that gets used regularly as well as small trailer. I'm hoping it will be at least another 10 yrs before a full teardown again. Removing and reinstalling trans is a pain.

The way I was filling it was messy but next time I'll dedicate a small garden sprayer to the task or build something out of pvc to connect to my compressor.
 

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I understand what you're saying about heat and hydrostatic transmissions. I had a X300 (K46 trans) for my 1/2 acre sloped lot that required an upgrade to X500 (K72 trans) because the transmission was getting a bit too hot. I wasn't brave enough to modify the transmission (nice job BTW!!!!) so that I could change the oil (thus X500). I'm guessing that Tuff Torq recommended you use 5W50 synthetic oil in your K58?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wish I had the x500 you have as I would like to have be able to do some ground engaging attachments, grading, tilling, etc. I can't get the traction I need for that (no locking diff) and I don't try since I don't think it the trans could handle it. I throw 3 suitcase weights on it when running the JB Jr and it does ok on traction but I'm always mindful that the trans is not meant for what I do with it and don't abuse it too much.

Tuff Torq did recommend the 5-50 full syn but I cant find it at the auto store so I run Royal Purple (full synthetic) in either 10-50 or 20-50 but we rarely see sub freezing weather and I don't use the tractor below 50 degrees so low temp operation is not an issue.

I'm having a problem with the starter just clicking when trying to start it occasionally, any idea what it is? I'm guessing its the solenoid going out.
 
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