My Tractor Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

K46 Transmission Repair Successful

142K views 56 replies 23 participants last post by  Carl T 
#1 · (Edited)
I need to start off with a big :thanku: to stladrill & wally2q as I would never have attempted such an undertaking with out the encouragement of stladrill and his coaching me through this. So thankfully along with his help and also borrowing the experience from his and wally2q's threads on their K46 work previously, I'm a very happy tractor owner again following the "operation" on my 2003 JD L120 with just under 300 hours on it.

The problem I had with the tractor was the loss of power to get up even the smallest of inclines after about a half hour of mowing and I knew the tranny was going south on me. Prompted by stladrill, a buddy of mine and I dropped the transmission and changed fluid, but to my disappointment I only realized an approximate 20-25% increase in power. With that told to stladrill he wisely recommend I purchase some parts from Tuff Torque and by doing so would have a practically new transmission. So I ordered the recommended parts which included a new filter, cylinder block motor, cylinder block pump, and a tube of sealant at a cost of $152.57 + tax and shipping. Also purchased 2 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5W50 oil for $14.40.

My buddy and I dropped the transmission again, cracked open the case and replaced the parts indicated in the pics, put her back together and installed, did the purging procedure and I swear this tractor now runs better than it did up the steepest of my back yard inclines like they were not even there :).

Total time on this was 4 hours start to finish with no breaks. I have to admit we were a little concerned as there was one small pin that came out when we removed the cylinder block pump and took us probably a half hour to finally figure where this thing went and how it fit correctley back into the pump. After doing so, it was apparent this tiny pin was what allowed the free wheel lever to operate correctly :fing20:. Overall the repair was not really that bad, it was just being extremely careful in paying attention to details and maneuvering the pieces back into the case right and in the correct configuration. I had intended to take step by step pics, but working with this in oil covered hands and constantly wiping them, made it impossible to try to keep grabbing the camera. We simply documented the opening of the transmission and then took shots at all angles to insure a proper put back together and it all worked out fine :fing32:.
If I can get another 7 years out of this fix, I'll be ready to trade her by then anyway, but right now, I'm real real pleased with her :trink40:

Again my Thanks to stladrill & wally2q :trink39:

Top View

Bottom View
 
See less See more
2
#6 ·
Do you know if this is the same transmission that's in mine?
It is.




X300/42X (2010)

Engine

Power 17 hp (12.7 kW)*

*Engine hp is provided by engine mfr. for comparison purposes. Actual operating hp will be less. ---

Displacement 28.8 cu in. (472 cc)

Manufacturer Kawasaki

Cylinders V-twin, cast-iron liners

Type OHV, oil filter

Charging System 15 amp regulated

Battery 195 cold-crank amps

Choke/Speed Control Separate levers

Fuel Tank Capacity 3.3 U.S. gallon

Transmission

Type K46 automatic

Control Twin Touch pedals

Cruise Control Standard

Forward Speed 0-5.5 mph

Reverse Speed 0-4.0 mph
 
#10 ·
My 09 X300 has a K46BR hst. The TT site lists about 15 K46 versions, not all are Deere specific.
 
#14 ·
Congratulations on a successful job. Kudos for tackling it and pulling it off successfully!
 
#20 ·
Few pics I got of the old motor and old pump, they are identical, just one is smaller than the other. Just cylinders and springs. Actually don't know why one is called a motor and one is called a pump, but thats part of the hydrostatic workings mystery I guess :).


 
#24 · (Edited)
After Jim W successful repair I received demand for the parts required to make the K46xx young again.

Basically they are the parts content in the repair kit available at Tuff Torq, minus “THE CENTER CASE PUMP” at $137.38.

These parts are for 234 transaxles model: T40A, K46xx, K57 (A, K) and K58 (A’B’H)

1). 168T2025090 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (PUMP) ....$58.13
1). 168T2025100 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (MOTOR) .$71.00
1). 168T2025220 FILTER 105 ........................................$10.21
1). A646099500 SEALANT ............................................$13.23

Search results for '168T2025090' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025100' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025220' found 228 matches

The center pump case change from all this transaxle but the inner parts are the same.

I strongly suggest making a double check on Tuff Torq parts web site.
I did my best to not make mistake, but it’s possible. :fing32:

Here are the transaxle serial numbers.
 

Attachments

#25 ·
Great CLEAR pics!!!!!!!! nice job to you both.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I can't say enough about what a great guy stladrill is, thats for sure, if anybody should have a side business on this, it's him and would do well at it :fing32:.

Yep that pin was a stickler for awhile figuring it out. I kept trying to put it in the indentation where the shaft goes back, as it did fit, but the shaft would not go all the way back in, and it has to in order to make everything fit right. If I had blown the diagram up larger, It shows the pin going into the tiny hole above the shaft :fing20:. It takes a little co-ordination to get the part back over the lever sticking up without the pin coming back out, but it will go.

I strongly urge you to take what pics you can with a digital camera starting off and as you progress. It's tough to document everything, I had to keep wiping hands all the time to get critical pics I wanted to remember, but wanted to make sure I had a reference point if something did'nt fit. Of course as you've seen the TT site diagrams are great and detailed just in case.

Remember there are two valves you need to make sure stay in place as well on the side of the part you are taking out here, those little guys want to fall out as well.


One other thing is pay attention to where the sealant goes before you start cleaning the old off. You'll see there is a couple places INSIDE the case itself where they had sealant to channel fluid. And also put rags or towels on the inside along the perimeter of the case to catch any dirt or scrapings when cleaning off the old sealant. Dirt is a big enemy and the inside of the case needs to be sterile as possible.


Also remember to clean the magnets, one shown here in the pic (not my tranny, but is the same ) and the other is in the cap you take off to drain the fluid on the top of the tranny.



Be sure to check back and let us know how it goes, I hope you get the same reaction I did once complete and back together, feels like a brand new mower in power to that tranny :fing32:
 
#30 ·
Great Job and excellent pics.. what about putting piston assembly back in on that goofy angle any tricks? (I usually use a putty knife)

I have to chuckle at that "little pin" I too had the same problem when I did my first Tuff Torq.

:trink39:
 
#31 ·
:thanku: , actually no, wish I had thought of the putty knife though, great idea, and I'll keep it in mind for next time :fing32:.

My buddy held two of the pistons with his fingers slid down the side and I held the other three on the opposite side and together we managed to get it back down in there, after three tries of course ! :fing20:.
 
#33 ·
Kevin, the assembly should lift straight up out if you have the three bolts removed. Will look like this.


Be careful to note how you remove it and that the smaller end of the "wedge", abutting the motor faces down. Remember there is a small silver pin that will most likely fall out of the motor when you get it on a clean flat surface, this pin is important so, make sure you get it back in, it is a bear to accomplish, but can be done. Once off you will see the pump part in the well underneath where the filter was. Wish I had taken pics of that after it was off, but like I mentioned, my hands where just too oily to be trying to take pics of that area :(.
 
#34 ·
You'll note the pin looks like it would fit into the indentation beside the shaft hole for the motor, but it does not, it goes in the upper small hole. The trick is to keep it in there once you put the motor shaft back in and keep it from falling back out the hole in this pic. Once you set it back down onto the C shaft sticking up you are ok.


Bottom of Assembly
 
#35 ·
Great! I just didn't want to "force" it out.

There was a lot of grit in the original oil (have the 5w50 to go back in it) and the teeth on the gears are pitted from the grit but aren't rounded or broken. I turned the final pinion gear around and swapped the differential gears around so they would have fresh metal. But the others will just have to do.

I'm glad I saw this because I was ready to order the kit for $373 but will just purchase the motor & pump now and use the existing casing! :thanku:

I'll try to get a few pictures but I just wanna get it done and move on to one of the other mechanical maintenance issues in my garage.

I'll probably have more questions but thanks for this.

Kevin
 
#36 ·
Well I just got back in town and my parts were here put them in with no problem the hardest part for me was getting the cover back on over the wedge on the shaft had to put case on top and pry the wedge over to right place then all bolted together no prob.
Will post back when I put her back in tomarrow on results.
Again thanks Jim and stladril
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top