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Should the face of the center case for the pump be smooth? Notice the small v-groves on the ends of the orrices. The face for the motor is smooth.

I tried to look at your photo Jim WV, but I couldn't tell.



:thanku:

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Kevin, to be honest I don't know for sure. I went into my original photo on my computer and tried to use the photo editing software to zoom in, and from what it appears before going too out of focus is that mine was smooth, but just can not get in close enough to say yes absolutely. Looking at your pic, and this is just a speculation, it does look as if the circular scarring was from the pump rotating, perhaps grit getting in there ?.

Don't know what to say on this issue :(.
 

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It's hard to tell from a picture, but if you can feel the groove with your nail it's a sign of wear, now the real question is, it is out of spec?
That is something I can not tell. :eek:
 

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It's hard to tell from a picture, but if you can feel the groove with your nail it's a sign of wear, now the real question is, it is out of spec?
That is something I can not tell. :eek:

That's the rule of thumb (or fingernail!) there. You dealing with extremely high pressures (sometimes 5,000psi) and very limited flow, so any scratches that deep can bleed off a lot of pressure.

The "V grooves" in the kidney ports are normal. They make the transmission smoother taking off and stopping.

Look for any slop or ovaling between the pistons and cylinder block bores. They are a precision fit, smooth in/out but no "play'.

If your transmission was just getting week as the oil warmed, you won't see any major signs of wear. It doesn't take much. I suspect it's a combination of cylinder bore wear and cylinder block face wear.
 

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Hi JIM_WV -

Your detailed postings and pixs prompted me to join MTF. A tip of the hat to postings by stladrill & wally2q as well

Pretty sure my JD X300 has a transaxle problem.

My 2007 X300 has about 200 hours on it - this is its fourth cutting season. I use it to pull a DR Leaf and Lawn Vacuum - house is surrounded by big oaks.

Problem surfaced recently. Many rain days kept me from keeping up with the growing grass. Used the DR to catch the tall grass clippings. Ran the JD and DR for about two hours. Could feel the DR's weight was probably the heaviest ever.

Pulled the DR to its usual dump site - the container was 1/2 to 2/3rds full. After dumping the clippings, the JD wouldn't pull the empty DR up the same slight slope it has pulled the past two years. Could use the JD to backup the DR about 10 feet on the flat at the bottom of the slope. Tried the pull the slope 10 to 15 times. Left the rig to cool overnight.

Started the JD the next day and it pulled the DR up the slope the first time with no trouble. Drove the rig about the length of a football field and parked it in the driveway.

Started reading Web postings and got the impression the transaxle oil got too hot and probably broke down. Consequently, made the decision not to use the JD until the transaxle oil and internal filter are changed.

After reading your postings, sounds like I should change some of the parts while the transaxle case is opened. Are the parts you listed the parts belonging to a TT parts kit or did you create the list as a result of what you observed after you opened the transaxle case?

Thanks.
 

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BMolzen, first off Welcome to MTF :).

Secondly, I have to say the parts I ordered were recommended by stladrill from the Tuff Torq Services site. I think they did have a kit listed which included the filter, motor and pump and inside case, but I went on stladrills suggestion and it cost me less money than buying the kit.

The way you have described your tractors symptoms are identical to what I was experiencing. I know there are a couple other members going thru this problem with the K46 so that was the intent of providing this thread so I'm glad to see it's helping some folks :).

The decisions to do these repairs have to be yours alone though, as I am in no way shape or form a mechanic, nor do I pretend to be, so I can't guarantee your results or any one elses results will be like mine, but I certainly hope they are great :fing32:.

Keep us informed and I imagine stladrill will be around too to offer advice where needed :trink40:.
 

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Thanks for the same-day reply!

I certainly understand the need for the mechanic disclaimer. No problem - if I bang my knuckles, it's my own fault. :)
 

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Here is the part needed, if your serial number is on the list that the part you need. :D

These parts are for 234 transaxles model: T40A, K46xx, K57 (A, K) and K58 (A’B’H)

1). 168T2025090 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (PUMP) ....$58.13

1). 168T2025100 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (MOTOR) .$71.00
1). 168T2025220 FILTER 105 ........................................$10.21
1). A646099500 SEALANT ............................................$13.23

Search results for '168T2025090' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025100' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025220' found 228 matches

The center pump case change from all this transaxle but the inner parts are the same.

I strongly suggest making a double check on Tuff Torq parts web site.
I did my best to not make mistake, but it’s possible. :fing32:

 

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Hi stladrill -

Thanks for the TT info - will double-check the numbers.

Is the different center pump case an example of what TT calls an upgrade?

A great day! First day posting on MTF and I made contact with two member of the K46 Brain Trust! :)
 

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On some K46 you can get the upgrade pump to replace the original.

The upgrade pump have two magnet at the entry to protect form metal particles to enter.
 

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... So I ordered the recommended parts which included a new filter, cylinder block motor, cylinder block pump, and a tube of sealant at a cost of $152.57 + tax and shipping. Also purchased 2 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5W50 oil for $14.40.

My buddy and I dropped the transmission again, cracked open the case and replaced the parts indicated in the pics, put her back together and installed, did the purging procedure and I swear this tractor now runs better than it did up the steepest of my back yard inclines like they were not even there :).
What pics? Do they include install instructions when you ordered the parts or did you have a repair manual / book you purchased separately?
 

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What pics? Do they include install instructions when you ordered the parts or did you have a repair manual / book you purchased separately?
If you go to the Tuff Torq site, they have diagrams of the transmission breakdown and parts so I printed it out and went by that. There were no instructions with the parts. Actually it was stladrill who advised me what particular parts I needed to replace using the diagram :).
 

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Thanks,

I was poking around the website and it looks like they have full transmissions too for $660, I assume that a full transmission replacement would be pretty easy to do. I was very surprised that the price difference between the K46 and the K58A/K58B was only about $100. Do you know if they are interchangeable on a X300 if you wanted to upgrade?
 

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Do you know if they are interchangeable on a X300 if you wanted to upgrade?
Yes they are.

You will need to change the wheels because of the bigger axle (3/4" to 1")

It's almost the same procedure I did to upgrade to the K66Y (link in my signature)

You don’t have to modify the rear hitch plate, its screw out - screw in procedure.

Just have to check the parts number for the brake rod and forward/reverse rod if they are the same.:D
 

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I found a tuff torq K46 that has reversed actions forward is reverse instead of changing linkages is a valve change possible?

Also there was a thread where someone modified their pan for a filter change and another that was going to run filter less never found them again curious about updates.
 

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TTC changes the direction via how the internal pistion ramp is oriented. So you can change the direction of a transmission, but you have to disassemble it almost completely to do so.
 

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O.K. forgot about that part, it usually doesn't wear if I remember right. May be able to switch with my old one. The new trans is cheaper than buying the parts separately. Thanks
 
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