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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Congrats..

Now you've just successfully created yourself a side business!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Congrats..

Now you've just successfully created yourself a side business!!!!
Not getting in the side buisness, was lucky to pull this one off myself, but yea been getting some inquiry's, will be glad to help where I can :rauch10:.
 

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More Liberty, Less Tyrany
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Not getting in the side buisness, was lucky to pull this one off myself, but yea been getting some inquiry's, will be glad to help where I can :rauch10:.
If I had the time I would certainly consider as there looks like a need.
My 3.5 hours of commuting each day, the maintenance of my property, school, and taking care of elderly parents I'm lucky to get the grass cut.

Glad you could pull this off. I'm very happy with the K66 I put in mine.
 

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Run ahead of the pack
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After Jim W successful repair I received demand for the parts required to make the K46xx young again.

Basically they are the parts content in the repair kit available at Tuff Torq, minus “THE CENTER CASE PUMP” at $137.38.

These parts are for 234 transaxles model: T40A, K46xx, K57 (A, K) and K58 (A’B’H)

1). 168T2025090 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (PUMP) ....$58.13
1). 168T2025100 CYLINDER BLOCK KIT (MOTOR) .$71.00
1). 168T2025220 FILTER 105 ........................................$10.21
1). A646099500 SEALANT ............................................$13.23

Search results for '168T2025090' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025100' found 234 matches
Search results for '168T2025220' found 228 matches

The center pump case change from all this transaxle but the inner parts are the same.

I strongly suggest making a double check on Tuff Torq parts web site.
I did my best to not make mistake, but it’s possible. :fing32:

Here are the transaxle serial numbers.
 

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Premium Member
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Great CLEAR pics!!!!!!!! nice job to you both.
 

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Great job after reading your post and contacting stladrill I just tore mine open and orderd parts. I have to laugh at myself I did the same thing you did with the pin but I had read your post allready feeling a little slow for that 1.
And thanks to stladrill this guy is very helpfull and prompt.
 

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Enginerd - DieselDork
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Good to know that when the K46HD in my LA gives up the ghost..... I should be able to fix it.

Thanks for all the input in this thread, it is a great resource.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Great job after reading your post and contacting stladrill I just tore mine open and orderd parts. I have to laugh at myself I did the same thing you did with the pin but I had read your post allready feeling a little slow for that 1.
And thanks to stladrill this guy is very helpfull and prompt.
I can't say enough about what a great guy stladrill is, thats for sure, if anybody should have a side business on this, it's him and would do well at it :fing32:.

Yep that pin was a stickler for awhile figuring it out. I kept trying to put it in the indentation where the shaft goes back, as it did fit, but the shaft would not go all the way back in, and it has to in order to make everything fit right. If I had blown the diagram up larger, It shows the pin going into the tiny hole above the shaft :fing20:. It takes a little co-ordination to get the part back over the lever sticking up without the pin coming back out, but it will go.

I strongly urge you to take what pics you can with a digital camera starting off and as you progress. It's tough to document everything, I had to keep wiping hands all the time to get critical pics I wanted to remember, but wanted to make sure I had a reference point if something did'nt fit. Of course as you've seen the TT site diagrams are great and detailed just in case.

Remember there are two valves you need to make sure stay in place as well on the side of the part you are taking out here, those little guys want to fall out as well.


One other thing is pay attention to where the sealant goes before you start cleaning the old off. You'll see there is a couple places INSIDE the case itself where they had sealant to channel fluid. And also put rags or towels on the inside along the perimeter of the case to catch any dirt or scrapings when cleaning off the old sealant. Dirt is a big enemy and the inside of the case needs to be sterile as possible.


Also remember to clean the magnets, one shown here in the pic (not my tranny, but is the same ) and the other is in the cap you take off to drain the fluid on the top of the tranny.



Be sure to check back and let us know how it goes, I hope you get the same reaction I did once complete and back together, feels like a brand new mower in power to that tranny :fing32:
 

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Master Service Technician
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Great Job and excellent pics.. what about putting piston assembly back in on that goofy angle any tricks? (I usually use a putty knife)

I have to chuckle at that "little pin" I too had the same problem when I did my first Tuff Torq.

:trink39:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Great Job and excellent pics.. what about putting piston assembly back in on that goofy angle any tricks? (I usually use a putty knife)

I have to chuckle at that "little pin" I too had the same problem when I did my first Tuff Torq.

:trink39:
:thanku: , actually no, wish I had thought of the putty knife though, great idea, and I'll keep it in mind for next time :fing32:.

My buddy held two of the pistons with his fingers slid down the side and I held the other three on the opposite side and together we managed to get it back down in there, after three tries of course ! :fing20:.
 

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I have my transaxle apart now and was wondering about how to get the motor/pump center case out.
I've removed the three bolts but need to know what else needs to come off in order to remove it.

Any help?
Thanks
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have my transaxle apart now and was wondering about how to get the motor/pump center case out.
I've removed the three bolts but need to know what else needs to come off in order to remove it.

Any help?
Thanks
Kevin
Kevin, the assembly should lift straight up out if you have the three bolts removed. Will look like this.


Be careful to note how you remove it and that the smaller end of the "wedge", abutting the motor faces down. Remember there is a small silver pin that will most likely fall out of the motor when you get it on a clean flat surface, this pin is important so, make sure you get it back in, it is a bear to accomplish, but can be done. Once off you will see the pump part in the well underneath where the filter was. Wish I had taken pics of that after it was off, but like I mentioned, my hands where just too oily to be trying to take pics of that area :(.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You'll note the pin looks like it would fit into the indentation beside the shaft hole for the motor, but it does not, it goes in the upper small hole. The trick is to keep it in there once you put the motor shaft back in and keep it from falling back out the hole in this pic. Once you set it back down onto the C shaft sticking up you are ok.


Bottom of Assembly
 

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Great! I just didn't want to "force" it out.

There was a lot of grit in the original oil (have the 5w50 to go back in it) and the teeth on the gears are pitted from the grit but aren't rounded or broken. I turned the final pinion gear around and swapped the differential gears around so they would have fresh metal. But the others will just have to do.

I'm glad I saw this because I was ready to order the kit for $373 but will just purchase the motor & pump now and use the existing casing! :thanku:

I'll try to get a few pictures but I just wanna get it done and move on to one of the other mechanical maintenance issues in my garage.

I'll probably have more questions but thanks for this.

Kevin
 

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Well I just got back in town and my parts were here put them in with no problem the hardest part for me was getting the cover back on over the wedge on the shaft had to put case on top and pry the wedge over to right place then all bolted together no prob.
Will post back when I put her back in tomarrow on results.
Again thanks Jim and stladril
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Sounds good guys, I hope your results turn out as well as mine did :fing32:.
 

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Thanks for the tip Tech! :trink39:

Here's some photos, including the infamous pin.

Transaxle with center case, pump and motor removed.



The center case with pump/motor removed. The infamous "pin" is sticking out just above the opening for the motor shaft. (I don't have photoshop to circle and label the pictures, sorry.)



Here from another angle. I pushed it through so it would show. It disengages the motor for it to free wheel.



It goes in the little hole



Pitting on the gears from metal in the oil.



So what is failing with these? Is it the pistons, cylinders? I can't really see any wear on either the pump or motor but don't have anything to compare too.



Not sure but I may go ahead and order the kit because it looks like there may be some wear from the motor shaft inside the center case.

I'll let you know how it works out. :praying:

Thanks for all the help so far! :thanku:

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Kevin, great pics !! :fing32:

Ah yes the little pin is a bugger, thanks for showing that, will help others who do not know what it is and you're right about it's purpose for operation of the free wheel lever, thats why it's so important :trink40:.

I guess I was lucky on the pitting, my gears looked in great shape, no problems at all. The magnets though were full of little specks of metal and I'm guessing they caught most of the stuff flowing around in there.

Anyhow :thanku: a bunch for the update and continue to keep us informed :fing32:.
 
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