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stladrill, :thanku: for providing your time and pictures in the K46 oil change procedure. I just completed mine this morning on my 7 year old L120 with 285 hours on her, the tranny was about dead in the water. Changed the drive belt while I was at it. I noticed a HUGE improvement on the first run. It's too wet to cut the grass here right now, but hoping the positive results will continue once I do, especially looking forward to see how it performs on the slopes in the backyard :trink39: .
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Your welcome, glad to know it's help. :fing32:
 

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I don’t want to argue, but me I’m dealing with the dealer (so form my point of view it is John Deere, I covert my back with the dealer, after that it is he’s problem not mine if he have to deal with the mother companies)

And just for the record I'm a certify Mechanic (class 1) and the dealer note that to.
I have to agree that the dealership is the deciding factor here and I called the corporate office for a letter that specifically lists the towing capacity of my x320 to remain under warranty and corporate told me that the dealership has to write that letter. I took the reps name and company number down and had the dealership call him to get approval so they did and all is good I can pick my letter up monday :)

According to john deere you are permitted to pull tractor+rider+john deere approved weights on that model. For me that is 920lb the rep at corporate told me the 850lb yard roller was no problem by their formula and would be covered under warranty within 4 years 300 hours.

Both corporate rep and 3 dealerships I spoke with told me that if I touched the transmission that my warranty was a goner and they check for a little more oil or a little less oil or a different type also they check to see if anyone has messed with the plugs is what I was told FYI just putting that out there so nobody takes a beatin.

That being said all dealerships are different and provide various levels of help.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Now if someone would explain where to drill and tap for a bottom plate drain for the k46.
Thanks
gary
Here the location for drain plug
 

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Here the location for drain plug
It would actually be pretty easy to drill/tap one or both of those to a small brass fitting. Has anyone actually tried this?

On another note, my x300 tranny does whine a bit, especially up hills but I can hear it on level ground also. Will a tranny oil change help?
 

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Here the location for drain plug
Thanks for the imformation on the location of drain plugs.

Do you know what part the two bolts play that doesn't appear to be part of the bottom plate attaching bolts.The function of these two bolts is not apparent in the pictures that I have seen of the bottom plate removed.Maybe could use one of those for a drain!!!
Thanks
gary
 

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Thanks for the imformation on the location of drain plugs.

Do you know what part the two bolts play that doesn't appear to be part of the bottom plate attaching bolts.The function of these two bolts is not apparent in the pictures that I have seen of the bottom plate removed.Maybe could use one of those for a drain!!!
Thanks
gary
No existing bolt will let the oil drain enough.
 

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Drilling and tapping for a brass fitting might be a BAD IDEA. Hung out on the bottom brass fittings will be vulnerable.

I'd cruise the Japanese motorcycle shops and get hex head drain plugs and crush washers from one of them. Might find a nifty drain plug with a magnetic insert.

Japanese drain plugs are usually large hex head with a respectable thread diameter to make draining quick.
 

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Here the location for drain plug
thanks for that picture.
I have a x320 with the larger tranny, but now know it is unservicable.
Not going to mess with it while it is under warrantly, but as soon as it runs out next year going to service it and put drain plugs. Would anyone happen to have a picture showing where the drain plugs on the x320 would go, or has anyone done this modification to the x320 transmission.
Thanks
Just getting prepared. Printing all this out and saving in a file for when I will need it.
 

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The overriding problem is if you use your "lawn tractor" for more than mowing a small, level , residential lawn, you can change the oil every ten hours, (that will get old!) but sooner or later, the K46 will fail.
 

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The advice from Tuff-Torq advises to fill both the pump and diffential side. Does filling with the one plug accomplish this? I'm going to tackle this with my LT160 next weekend. Presently has 177 hours.
 

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The advice from Tuff-Torq advises to fill both the pump and diffential side. Does filling with the one plug accomplish this? I'm going to tackle this with my LT160 next weekend. Presently has 177 hours.

Yes it will fill both side. :fing32:

Gears side opening



Pump side opening

 

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How did you remove the fill cap? I removed the vent and drained the oil there and got about 2 quarts. Can I fill via the vent hole or must I remove the fill plug? I don't want to damage it beyond re-use.
 

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How did you remove the fill cap? I removed the vent and drained the oil there and got about 2 quarts. Can I fill via the vent hole or must I remove the fill plug? I don't want to damage it beyond re-use.
Cheez, when I did mine, took a knife blade and gently worked it around the edge of the fill cap prying up until I get a hold on it with my fingers and it popped right off. If you do this, just remember there may be a magnet in the cap, not sure on your K46, but keep an eye out for it and clean it. If you got out two quarts thats pretty good. I put 2 quarts back in mine, poured probably a quart or so through the fill side, then put the remainder in the vent cap side :).
 

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Got mine finished up. Ended filling from the vent hole with 2 quarts of Syntec 5W-50. Mowed the lawn and the trans is quieter than before and more responsive. It really was simple to do and I plan to do so every 200 hours.
 
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