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Discussion Starter #1
Well folks Got a new engine on the go, started to put her together today but was unable due to a broken valve rotator :banghead3

From the marks on them, The previous owner used a screwdriver to remove the valves, what an idiot... :fing20:

anyway here is what I have so far from my 3 sources Kirk engines, Truff Tractor ( Kohler and Stens parts ) , and ebay for cheap digital voltmeter

kirk engine pointless ignition system
Kirk engine billet cover
performance cheater cam
Bosh blue coil
performance wire
stator
starter
valves
piston
chrome rings
Rod


Waiting on

Balanced crank
Kirk engine tachometer
Valve rotators

Here are somme pics






 

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Have to ask the question. How much do you have in it so far for the parts, because it sounds like a good plan for me also.

This could be a great thread, if you took the time to take lots of photos and provided a blow by blow description as you go along. Especially since you are making so many updates and mods.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dont really want to add it up but I will take some pics and step by step for the build.

but im sure im close to 800$ . :crybaby:

If you need specific pics let me know :fing32:
 

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Dont really want to add it up but I will take some pics and step by step for the build.

but im sure im close to 800$ . :crybaby:

If you need specific pics let me know :fing32:
I will be rebuilding one of these myself during the winter. It really would be good to have something to reference to. Especially if you are aware of any of the things that can get a re builder in trouble. I am sure there will be many who will follow along and thank you for doing it/

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All I can advise is to order all your parts before hand... its so much more fun putting the block together in 1 day...

I strongly recomend New everything if you are keeping it ...
 

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I am keeping it. It is out of my Ford LGT165, which I have completely dismantled for painting and such. I have put the project on hold while I tear into a Case 444 I just picked up. Busy, busy, and still busy, but haveing lots of fun.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I picked up the most important part from the machinist today...

The balanced crank !!!! This is a must do for any K321 or K341 rebuild !!!!

I also got the journal turned to match my new .010 over ROD.




My machinist cost 230$ for the 53% Balance crank, .010 under ROD , .010 over Block and stupid Taxes :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
for the price its a no brainer to put in a new performance cam.

Next big item I want to buy is a billet flywheel so I can increase my RPM range...
 

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This is a great information base for anyone wanting to do this. I have a couple of questions: What does this do to the reliability of the engine, if its to be used in normal operation? Does the lighter flywheel cool less? Thanks for the time you are taking to make these posts. I am still trying to understand the 53% balance thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The 53% balance is what the trator pull guys run... It causes less vibration. But my engine is rubber mounted and dosent affect me much. I just do it for peice of mind since I junk the balance gears in all my engines...

The engine reliability is not affected with the cam... The cam is grounded to the rare K351 (18hp) specs and made to run at higher rpm's...

The lighter flywheel is build the same just with lighter materials... so cooling is not affected and I will be able to run my engine at higher rpms...

This is all done for more HP in a stock configuration.
 

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Here's my 2 cents from many years playing with small engines.

Reliability is mostly a function of proper balance and assembly techniques if you are going to run above 3500 rpm.

Second issue is proper fuel mixture. Run things too lean and you will warp the head, burn a valve or melt the piston.

And I certainly second buying new, quality parts. Nothing worse than doing the same job again because you cut corners the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And Ive learned the hard way to change everything, One of my K341 blew because I cheaped out on a new ROD...

Then one of my K321 when dead after using cheap parts...

So now I just go all out and buy good parts ( STENS ) beacuse Kohler parts are way to expensive and not worth the money...
 

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I hope these questions don't offend anyone. The starter and stator were replaced; A) they needed to be, or B) There is something special about the new ones? I can't seem to be able to contact Kirk engines. I get the web page, but there is no way to contact them. I get the info about the products, but thats about it. Would it be better to start with K341 as this is a stronger engine to start with? This is in for a Ford LGT 145 that I'm restoring, I am going to use it after the restoration for mowing and such. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well the placement of the stator dictates why I cange it... Also a new stator is under 40$

I dont want to be stuck pulling out the engine because I cheaped out... To much time and effort... And I also got the rear PTO in my way...


The new starters have more torque and are also around 60$

Also remember to change your valve rotators... its a 12$ part that can screw up a new build...

I spent close to 800$ on this engine why would I cheap out and reuse 30 year old parts.

this is my 8th Kohler rebuild, Ive learned from my past mistakes.
 

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Does the higher RPMs give you the HP increase or do you see it in the stock RPM range? What kind of HP #'s are you expecting? Where did you find a $40 stator? I'm looking to buy one, but haven't found one that cheap? thanks paul
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well Fired her up today... Adjusted the timing the best i could without a timing light ( very easy with electronic ignition.)

Will get a timing light tomorow to finish the fine tuning.

1st order of business is to till my garden... Talk about a proper break in.... lol...

And the stator works great... even if it wasn't listed for a k-series engine... :fing32: But for half the price new I had to try it...

the new 50$ ebay starter works like a charm as well :fing32:
 
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