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Discussion Starter #1
My head ( that came with my Case 195) is badly damaged. The mounting surface is cupped bad. Two of the mounting bolts are elongated too. I bought the head that is more gray and it's the same except the bolt towers are much shorter. I got it off ebay and didn't notice the difference. Other than the fitting of the cover, might there be any problems? The combustion chambers are identical. As I've said, I know nothing of the tractor's history, and have been puzzled as to how the head got damaged. Thanks in advance, Mike
 

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You might want to check out Brian Miller's web site about the Kohler engine. It has a lot of information:

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/cylhead.htm

Could your original head be machined flat? The short bolt towers on the other head look just like the head off of my K321. I haven't seen the tall bolt towers before, but those sure do look beefy.

I would have head's matting surface machined flat prior to installing it on the motor. I have heard that these heads tend to warp with heat especially if the timing is off and/or the motor is running too lean.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is cupped too badly to flatten. With the bolts tourqued down and no head gasket I have more than a .025 gap. I wouldn't have trusted it being banged up the way it was. Thanks for the link, most of the heads pictured are like my new one, so I think I'll use it.
 

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Well first you can mill those heads right down to the point that you cant see that raised gasket surfice!!! I belive thats a bout .050. I would defently get the new head to a shop and have them give it a cleanup cut to make sure its flat, and if it was me, I would bring the old one also, and see how much it would take to flatten it out. I bet they will not charge to much extra.

As for the bolt holes... I have seen bolth. Just make sure the bolts you use dont bottom out in the block.
 

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Like 444 said check the bolt holes.I would run a tap down in then to clean them out.Then I would run the bolt in and measure from the head to the block and make sure that it is less than the thickness of the head at the bolting surfaces.If it has studs make sure there is plenty of threads.
Also if you email Brian at the site given above he is very helpful.
I cut my head and it had about.020 warp I took most of the raised area off.then fliped it and spot faced the bolt areas.(That was my second head)I think I had a bolt bottom out on the first and didn't catch it and messed up te head.
I also suggest not using a cheap after market gasket.I think that may have been part of my issue the gasket that came with my after market kit didn't have a fire ring like the Kohler gasket.Good Luke
Terry T
 

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I have 3 K301, and 1 K241.
I'm just learning how to rebuild engines.
Strange how there are these little differences in the "same" engine, depending on which O.E.M. tractor it came out of.
You'd think that a K301 is a K301, but it doesn't seem to work that way.
I can't find one that's "exactly" like mine. That's why I'm learning to rebuild the cotten-picker!
 

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444 , if you shave the head that much do you need to get a thicker gasket
or is there such a thing. I just got one out of the shop and it is right down to the end of the gasket surface. Should I worry about it?
 

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Just a normal gasket. The one I have on my 444 I cut to .030. Just a little gasket ridge left. If your worryed, just put a little clay on the valves, bult the hed down with a used gasket, and spin her a few times, and check the thickness of the clay. From all I could find, you are good to a .050 cut, and I belive then you get into the issue of the head just being to thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The link that jlinsky posted states that the bolt towers were shortened for improved cooling. The last version of this same head places the spark plug directly over the exhaust valve. Thanks for all the help. Mike
 
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