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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://i33.tinypic.com/qs1uhj.jpg

I felt she was in too good of shape to pass up. Runs like a top, spindles and deck are tight. Engine looks like it's new. Doesn't have hydro lift but does have glass lenses.

I've read some posts about adjusting the forward speed control to make it stay at top speed, can someone point out where this adjustment takes place?

I ordered new gauge wheels (only real issue, one was shot), and I have the owner's manual.

Someone also posted about a hydro lift conversion for the front deck on Ebay but I haven't been able to find one. (I may keep it stock)

I've got a Cub Cadet 124 with a Johnny Bucket, an AC 914H, and Simplicity 4211H . I mow with a Hustler 251 K and a Toro Z Master, both have bagging capability.

I think If I bring home another lawn tractor my wife will move me out to the shed with them.

Mike
Wilmington, NC
Case's are pretty scarce out here on the coast, no dealers around. This one was purchased by someone in PA and brought down here. I' the 3hird owner.
 

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That's an early 80's model and it was me that spoke about the kits. Let me 'splain.

There are people who routinely buy up these tractors for the express purpose of dismantling them totally and then selling the individual parts on e-Bay. Occasionally, one of these Sellers will set aside all the parts that are needed to convert a manual lift tractor to a hydraulic lift model.

I won't kid you. This is a major undertaking but it is certainly do-able by anyone with reasonable mechanical aptitude and a decent set of tools. You will have to remove the engine from the tractor but that isn't a big deal to do. The bellcrank is different and you will have to add the hydraulic cylinder and its mounting bracket. You MAY also need the dual spool valve but if you look under your tractor, you may find that you already have that in place and it has been blocked off.

You will have to add the lift lever on the right side of the steering wheel as well.


If you think that you'd like to do this, then just tell me. I'll put you in contact with a seller I know and trust. Even if he does not have what you need right now, he will ....eventually. And when that happens, he will contact you and make the deal happen.

As for your speed control issue, here's how to proceed.

Find the serial number on the metal tag on the dash support column and make sure you write it down correctly.

Go to http://www.ingersolltractors.com and click on the Illustrated Parts link. A new screen will appear. On the right side, find the green box that says tractors with manual steering and click on the X. Scroll down to where the 222's are and look at the PIN's. Find the book that encompasses your serial or PIN. You can print that book out or download it to a file in your hard drive for future reference.

What you are looking for is an item called the "neutral safety switch". If you look on the actual dash of your tractor; just above the travel lever you will see the heads of two tiny carriage bolts. These secure the NSS to the underside of the dash. The round rod you see in the dash slot that moves when you move the travel lever, rests solidly against the NSS thanks to a coil spring located at the bottom of the travel lever.

The NSS has many small serrations cut into its nylon body and these engage with the little round rod to hold the travel lever where you want. Over time, the serrations wear down and so does the tiny rod. When that happens, the travel lever no longer stays in position.


When looking in the parts book, go and find the travel/lift valve and study it. In certain years, Case used a valve that had a housing bolted behind the travel spool with centering springs on it. Great idea when the tractor is new but over time, the springs work against the NSS' s attempt to keep the travel lever where you want it. The solution is to remove the cap and remove the springs.

If any of this is confusing, then post the PIN of your tractor and I'll help you further.

Someone added the glass lenses and they should say Speaker 777 on them.

I hope that you ordered OEM gage wheels and for the width of deck you have as there are two different sizes of those wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I ordered by correct part # so I hope the guage wheels are right. Thanks for the info I'll get my numbers and start looking.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My SN is 14021312. Downloaded the Parts manual. But I don't see a part labeled "Neutral safety switch"????
Mike:thanku:
 

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If you downloaded the last parts PDF on that list, then turn to pages 37 and 38. The latter page applies to your PIN but the NSS is the same C-23002 part number and the same Item number (11) in both pictorials.


If you then go to PDF page 32 (not catalog page), you will find an exploded diagram of the travel/lift valve. Item 32 is the travel valve return spring that I am suggesting you remove. I think that Ingersoll put out a bulletin to the dealers about this spring at one time due to complaints from owners about the problem you have. It costs you zero to remove this spring so I'd go with that first and see what happens. A new NSS is around $30.00 the last time I checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's the shift lever, mine stays in high or low fine, My issue is with the speed control returning to a lower speed after it's being released. I think that diagram is page 60/61.

Thanks
Mike
 

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Time for you to learn the vernacular of your tractor, Mike. :biglaugh:

The "shift lever" is the item beneath your legs that shifts the trans-axle from Hi Range to Neutral and to Lo Range.

The lever on the left side of the steering wheel is called the travel lever. That one controls speed and direction of the tractor.

When I talk about Page numbers. I refer to the PDF page numbers, not the numbers shown on the pages of the parts book that was turned into a PDF. That may be where the confusion lies. Look on your screen in the toolbar area just above where the pages from the manual are displayed. You will see a small square where the PDF page numbers appear. Every PDF page number represents 2 pages out of the original parts manual which is a good thing because you see the pictorial on one side and the parts info on the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The page of the pDF VS the page on the sheets themselves, was what was messing me up. From the diagram I need to remove part 20 which removes 35 then 34 which removes 33, 32 and 31. Replace 33 and 31 tighten 34 then replace 35 tightening 20. Should I expect Fluid loss?

Mike
Thanks again
 

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The page of the pDF VS the page on the sheets themselves, was what was messing me up. From the diagram I need to remove part 20 which removes 35 then 34 which removes 33, 32 and 31. Replace 33 and 31 tighten 34 then replace 35 tightening 20.

That sequence works for me.

Should I expect Fluid loss?

Only if you either perspire a lot or have a bladder problem. A clean handkerchief will fix the first problem and a Depends diaper will handle the second one.

Mike
Thanks again
Don't forget to post back here with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Castoff and all others with this issue. I finally got around to addressing my issue with my travel lever not staying put. I followed Castoff's directions but ran into one issue. When I tried to remove screw # 34 the whole shaft moved and I didn't want to put vice grips on it to hold it in place. I just cut the center coil of spring #32, now everything works fine. Just tried her out and she stays at speed where set.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks,
It's hard to figure it out, the engine looks new and untouched. It was a great find. The only issue I had was the control lever not staying in position. I took one wheel off to get to the control valve and it looks like they had never been off. The guy I got it from was the 2nd owner he said the 1st owner said he waxed it after each use. There are not many Cases in eastern North Carolina, this one was brought down from PA.

Mike
 

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Someone also posted about a hydro lift conversion for the front deck on Ebay but I haven't been able to find one. (I may keep it stock)

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If you are still looking at converting the lift from manuel to hydrolic, be advised that it takes a lot of tearing down. I'm in the process of doing such as I found a donor 222 with a bad frame that I had the luxery of getting the complete chassis for all the parts to add hydro lift to my 220.

it's possible your 222 has a duel spool valve, that's the thing under the center that the linkage bar from the travel lever you adjusted connects to. That valve's main function controlls the hydo fluid from the pump on the motor to the hydro motor on the rearend but is also were the line from the hydro lift connects to run the lift for the deck (and a smaller pair of hydro lines connect to to run the lift). If your's is a duel one, you should see one connected linkage (for the travel linkage) and a stub to connect the lift control linkage.

The best way to get the parts might be to find a similer year 222 or 224 with no engine like I did, then you have everything including a reference to how it comes apart to help in putting it back togather. 2nd best would be to ask around here, chances that someone here will have what you need. 3rd best will be to watch eBay while there hasn't been complete part kit lately, as spring nears I supsect they will start showing up, last one I saw on eBay was in October 2010 but it was over $300 with shipping (I was bidder but it got too rich for my blood!).

Doing the conversion is not for the faint of heart, the biggest issue past getting the parts is that it's a major dismantling feat which at least on mine, I'm pulling the Kohler engine off my 220 to convert mine, that might not be necessary for talented mechanics but on mine, I have to change out at least one major line to the front cooler and changing the travel spool valve which IF yours already has that duel valve, there's a lot less work involved and would think if one could get by without pulling the engine.

If you have the PDF file for yours, it will list the parts for the hydro lift, parts include the duel spool valve, hydro lines, lift piston and bracket, the control arm linkage off the dash and I think the what is called the rock arm shaft which is the complete rod that the parking brake and lift arms are part of.
 
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